20 Most Recent Maytag Performa LAT2500A Questions & Answers


Maytag washer not starting

Check pump isnt blocked.normally a bung to undo at base.water will come out.have a towel etc handy
5/2/2016 12:55:13 AM • Maytag Performa... • Answered on May 02, 2016

Tub capacity of maytag performa

It holds 3.9 cu feet. According to Maytag "This 3.9 cu. ft. capacity high-efficiency washer also features the MaxExtractâ„¢ option, which spins clothes at up to 1,300 RPM and means less time doing laundry. You get all that and still use 79 percent less water and 76 percent less energy". A cubic foot is the volume of a cube whose sides are all 1 foot long.
2/13/2015 3:55:00 AM • Maytag Performa... • Answered on Feb 13, 2015

The drum does not spin. the agitator works

seems to be a transmisson problem, the pump is driven by the motor also. so the motor should be ok. and the agitator works ok. believe it would be a transmission gear failure.
9/24/2012 6:19:10 AM • Maytag Performa... • Answered on Sep 24, 2012

What is the qubic ft.


1 Cubic Foot = 28.3168466 Liters

Regarding the exact definition, you could refer to :-


Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
6/22/2011 12:24:52 AM • Maytag Performa... • Answered on Jun 22, 2011

When I want to run cold water only, water just

I am not a repair person but I have this exact washer, and this problem all of the time. You probably have sediment blocking the water from coming through the cold water hose. Turn off the main water supply valve where the hoses are connected, then disconnect the cold water hose from this end ( not the end connected to the machine). There probably is a little plastic filter with a rubber gasket on the inside of the end of the hose. Remove this filter and gasket, noting how it is in there so you can replace it exactly the same way. Clean out this little filter in sink to remove all sand, dirt, sediment. Replace filter back in end of hose and connect back to water valve. Turn main valve back on. This should make a huge difference in the stream of cold water that comes into your machine. I have very hard well water with a lot of sediment and need to do this procedure about once a month. However, we just got a filter attached to our well holding tank so hopefully this will catch the majority of sediment before it goes through the house and into my washing maching hoses!.
Good Luck!
3/19/2011 1:50:20 AM • Maytag Performa... • Answered on Mar 19, 2011

Maytag lat2500eea water level wont

The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.

The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.

Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif

From another source..."Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being hardest) I'd call it a 3.5. If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job. It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear. Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer. The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier. This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board. My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor. All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor. As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft. The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together. There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish. Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."

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10/1/2010 5:07:23 AM • Maytag Performa... • Answered on Oct 01, 2010

Machine quit working and makes no sound when the

The first thing is you need to replace lid switch thats why it's filling then stopping...
9/22/2010 4:33:58 PM • Maytag Performa... • Answered on Sep 22, 2010

Washing machines vibrates and bangs around on the

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. The banging your washer is experiencing is caused by two things. Either the Tub bearing: (Item 21) http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47786&diagram_id=665652#d665652

Detailed View:


or the damper pads are worn (Item 8) http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47786&diagram_id=695761#d695761

Detailed View: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4024203

The whole top end of the washer must be disassembled to gain access to the tub bearing. The damper pads can be changed by removng the lower drive pullley and suspension springs then lifting the tub assy away from the base.

There is a possibility that something a simple as the leveling legs just need adjusted. If you can press down on all top 4 corners one at a time and the unit teeters then the legs need adjusted so that they all touch the floor.

If the material condition of the washer is still in good shape I would do any of the above repairs and keep this washer in service even IF I had to call a repair person.

Thanks for using FixYa.

7/12/2010 9:17:11 PM • Maytag Performa... • Answered on Jul 12, 2010


Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly
Just as you raise or close the lid you should hear an audible click from the lid switch. It will be faint but audible. If you do not hear a click then there is a problem with the lid switch. See item 18 this link:

1. Unplug the washer.

You gain access to the lid switch by removing the 2 screws in the lower front panel then pull the bottom of the front panel toward you / outward then off. After that you will remove the 2 bolts (Item 20 of link above) and tip the top straight up from the front. The lid switch will be in the center of the back of the lid area inside the top panel.

If there is water in the unit select SPIN on the timer.

You can remove the 2 wires from the lid switch and jumper them together to see if the machine works. If it works the lid switch is bad.

Reassemble in reverse order....

If you still have problems after trying this just respond here and I will get back to you asap.

6/14/2010 1:57:47 AM • Maytag Performa... • Answered on Jun 14, 2010

Leaks water when filling up before spin cycle.

It sounds like your pressure switch tube fell off. You will need to replace your brake assy on the the washer which requires a special brake tool that has to be ordered. You may want to call a tech because the brake tool is like 80 bucks. The reason this occurs is the brake stops too hard and jerks the tub which pulls the tube loose. Hope this helps _MJ_
6/9/2010 7:48:15 PM • Maytag Performa... • Answered on Jun 09, 2010

Washer filled was agitating and just stopped.

The most common cause that matches your symptom would be the lid switch part number 2200340. It is number 3 in the picture at this link.


It could also have tripped the out of balance switch but that should have reset when you tried to restart the machine.

4/19/2010 1:07:28 AM • Maytag Performa... • Answered on Apr 19, 2010

Doesnt work at all

if it just fills with water and does nothing else then its probably the lid switch
3/30/2010 2:40:32 AM • Maytag Performa... • Answered on Mar 30, 2010
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