LAT 2500 washer has started to leak, what is the most probable cause?

Here are some solutions.

Hope this helps you...Jim...Please leave a comment...Thanks!
LEAKS ALL THE TIME Is your GE washer leaking all the time, even when not in use? If so the problem is the fill hoses or the valve. Look behind the washer to see if water is coming from the hoses. If not, take the cover off to the control panel. Once off, you should see if the water valve and if there is leakage - it needs replacing (if it is leaking). This is the most popular water valve for GE top-loading washers made after 1995 and the part number is WH13X86 Order Here. . Note that some models have a water valve with more than two coils. In this case, you will need to order the valve by model number at AppliancePartsPros.com Buy Fill Hoses Here.
LEAKS DURING FILL CYCLE Is your GE washer leaking during the fill cycle? If so the problem may be in the valve. Follow instructions above, only this time start the fill cycle before looking at the valve.
If your washer overflows with water during fill cycle your problem is the water level control or the water valve. If you must cut the water off from the house plumbing to stop the water then there is no need for testing, just replace the water valve. First, you need to turn on the washer. The washer should start to fill with water, now cut the washer off and on repeatedly (note to yourself whether the water turned off every time). If it does cut off every time you cut the washer off, then it's most likely in the water level control. If it keeps running after you cut the washer off then, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. (Note that the valve can stick intermittently so it still may be bad if it passed the test) Water valves can be purchased at AppliancePartsPros.com
If the water valve doesn't stick in the first test then you need to check the water level control. First, remove the front of washer (insert butter knife between the top and the front pushing on the clips) then look on the side of the tub and you should see a tube attached to a box. Remove the tube (make sure all the water is out of the tub) look in the tube to see if is stopped up. Often it will stop up near the end. If it is, you can clean it out with a toothpick. Once it's clean, reinstall it and your washer is fixed. If the tube is not stopped up reinstall the tube. Now set the water level control on the lowest setting and start filling the washer with water. If the water stops when the tub is approximately half full (this varies with every model) turn it up to the next level (you may have to reset it). Repeat until the tub is full. If at any the water level gets above the last row of holes in the tub, unplug the washer. If the water stops running when you unplug the washer, replace the water level control. If the water doesn't stop, turn the water off at the wall then replace water valve. Water level contorls and water valves can be purchased at AppliancePartsPros.com . LEAKS DURING WASH Is your GE washer leaking during wash? If so the problem is the tub seal (seals around the transmission where it goes through the tub), drain hoses (including the tub to pump hose) or the pump. First take the front off the washer (insert butter knife between the top and the front, pushing on the clips) then start the fill cycle. Now start watching until you see a leak. If the leak is coming from the tub seal, the transmission needs to be replaced (note that changing the transmission is expensive and takes special tools, so you may consider replacing the washer). If the leak is coming from the drain hose or the pump you need to replace it. If you don't see it leak at all, your soap may be the problem. To check this fill the washer with water and the amount of soap you normally would use. Then start the washer and watch the tube coming from the left back of the tub (the overflow pipe). If soapsuds come out of the overflow pipe then try cutting down on your soap or switch to another brand. This may fix your problem. These parts can be purchased at AppliancePartsPros.com
LEAKS DURING PUMP OUT Is your GE washer leaking during pump out? If so the first thing you should look at is the drainpipe (to your house plumbing). Fill the washer with water, and then turn it to spin and start it. Now while it's pumping, look at your drainpipe if water backs out (it may not back unless you have soap in the tub), then the problem is in your plumbing. If it doesn't, follow the same steps as above in "leaks during wash." Only this time watch for leaks during pump out as well.

HI,

Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

• Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.



• The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.



• Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

• Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.



• Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.



• Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.



• Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Most likely your air filter is plugged or dirty, or the crank case vent valve needs to be cleaned.if it still does it check that the oil level is at the full mark, if overfilled it would cause the same problem.

Probably the drain pump seal has gone bad.
Check it for leaks.
If your floor is good and level look for water near the front center of the machine.

1. make sure dishwasher is level front to back and side to side.
2. check the main washer arm (WD22X154) on the bottom side for leaks. If you use heated dry, the heating elements can cause the part of the spray arm directly over it to soften and eventually leak. When water comes out that leak it can spray at the bottom of the door, splashing water inside it and resulting in your leak.
3. if 1 and 2 OK, watch how you load the lower rack. If dishes or a bowl direct water from the lower wash arm to spray against the bottom of the door, especially at the center of the door bottom, the resulting splash inside the door allows water to hit the outer door panel and drip out a one or both corners of the door.

Transmission may be bad. When machinbe goes into very start of spin it should drain the water first and then machine will actually spin; tub should not be spinning. If it is, water cyclones up sides and will come out at tub cover. Only fix is to repl trans or select lower water level if I am correct in the diagnosis.

you can remve the lower acess panel (3 screws along teh bottome front panel) too look to see where it coming from. the top also removes with 3 screws along the top of back panel

feel in the back of your outter tub towards the top and chances are you will find a hole ge's love doing this if it is not under warranty you can repair with some JB weld with out replacing the tub

most likely cause
kenmore pressure sensors work off a tube that runs from the bottom of the drum to the sensor, either the tube has come off the sensor body inside the control panel

• open control panel reattach tube, wrap wiretie or twisttie to keep in plpace

or less likely cause
kenmore level sensors fail
there is a spring inside that stretches over time and mis reads, it is adjustable

• control panel is still open from previous check
• remove level selector from control panel, usually an unlock latch on the right side, rotate 45deg counter clockwise withdraw.
• there is a 1/8 inch bolt head, turn right raise water level, turl left lower water level

the pressure sensor is inside the control panel, the panel is screwed closed from the rear
you initially check that the plastic air line is attached at top and bottom
top is easy
to reach the bottom
the top of the washer must be removed, unlock the two metal clips at the front ~3 inches from the edges by sliding a putty knife or other blunt blade between the front panel and the top
tilt up the top
visully inspect the air line running from the top left to the bottom of the drum/tank

usually the top comes off
test that first,
because if the bottom is off, there would be water running all over the floor as the pressure sensor attaches below water line

if both hose ends are attached remove the top end and blowe down it, any water in the line messes up pressure readings

the water level sensor is adjustable
remove the water level sensor body from the control panel, there is a lock clip on the right side of the control body
there is a 1/8th nut next to the shaft the knob sits on
clockwise to raise water level
counterclockwise to lower water level
if turning the adjuster has no effect, the spring inside has broken, not weakened, and the control body should be replaced.
water level control bodies are common to many models and makes, the local parts store will have a suitable one, even if labelled ge or kenmore instead of maytag