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Good job on troubleshooting, let’s focus on the Left Hand Lid Lock. It has the dual signaling functions to allow the Machine to operate as designed. The first signaling function is “Lid is Open/Lid Closed” signaling the “OP” error code for lid is OPEN if you press the Start button at the Start of a cycle or during a pause and resume portion of a cycle and “OD” error code if the machine has not seen the lid open for three completed machine cycles your issue. The second signaling function is “Failed to Lock” the “FL” error code.
Because the Control Board programming is looking for the contact open/closure transitions at appropriate times of the wash cycle from the Magnetic Reed Relay in the left lid lock. I see no way to fool it by bypassing the magnetic reed relay in the Left Hand Lid lock assembly and have the machine work as designed.
What I would do next is remove the Left Lid Lock and very carefully open it up. I found it is very easy to break off the enclosure locking tabs. I use a fine flat jewelers screw driver and X-acto blade and work around the locking tabs to open the case halves. I wedge small paper clip ends in the case halves as I work around the tabs. Again I stress they break off in a heartbeat take it slow and no coffee for 24hrs before you begin this operation …. (:
How do the black and red wire on the reed relay look? If they look like this I would take a low wattage soldering iron fine pencile tip 25W no more than 60W iron and solder back on the broken end if that has happened. If you don’t want to deal with that you need to replace the Left Hand Lid Lock .
I would also use a drop or two of WD-40 on the slide switch in that signals “Lid Is Locked”. I’m going to include a pic of my attempt to document the Left Hand Lid Lock Control Board inputs and signaling outputs. I have labeled the Pins on that lock assembly for my reference, I cannot correlate them one for one to the schematic packed in the machine console. I have measured and watched the +12VDC input and output transitions with my DVM for the Lid Is Closed and Lid is Locked on the Control Board at connector P3. If your Left Hand Lid Lock is signaling correctly out of the assembly then I would trace the +12VDC signaling back to the control board. From your previous troubleshooting you have insured there is no corrosion on the male Left Hand Lid Lock assembly and the mating plug end.
Please let me know what you find, I hope this helps; I’m a rookie owner still learning how to troubleshoot/repair the machine.
As a side note I unplugged the Right Hand Lid Lock and taped up the plug end. I would never replace that lid lock if it failed my choice; I find it helps to simplify troubleshooting.
Good Luck …………..Rich
on Feb 15, 2021
Drain the water off then try again then check your foilter
on Jan 10, 2018
In my opinion it would be better to download a service manual from the manufactures website to quench your frustration for a small price eric
on Dec 27, 2017
Maytag's service center emailed me back saying that I needed to purchase a magnet for the right side of the lid, even after I sent them photos of the lid. There is no magnet on the right side, so don't be fooled! The lid comes apart fairly easily. First, with a screwdriver, apply a little downward pressure and pry out the center liquid/powder holder. It is hinged on the bottom and will come right out. Next, pull out on the bottom corners and the lid liner will come straight down. Now you can verify that the magnet (on the left side!) is there and seated correctly. If that is the case, go ahead and reassemble. Unplug the washer. Lift up the top portion of the washer (at the crease). You may need a screwdriver to pry up on it. I didn't. I just pulled up on it. It comes up fairly easily. Now you can see the locks, mounted with one bolt on either side. Inspect the wiring for any wear or damage. Next, remove the locks one at a time, unhook the wire connector and plug them back in. Reassemble. Leave the lid up (not sure if it matters, but I did) and plug the washer back in. That's all I did and it worked! The "od" alarm didn't come back.
on Nov 28, 2017
Check that the spigot where the Air Dome connects is also clean, it may be full of gunk so the dome gets no water/air pressure...
on Oct 03, 2017
No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.
Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch
assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.
Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission
, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.
Or try the hand test:
If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING
:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.
- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand
- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin
- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand
- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.
Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)
Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.
On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.
LID SWITCH TEST- next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block
If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.
Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in Whirlpool Kenmore...
on Mar 24, 2017
The washer is trying to go into spin but failing. The two sprag clutches are probably sticking, This usually indicates a water leak.
The seal should be replaced. The bearing and sprag clutches should also be checked and will probably need to be relubricate or replaced.
on Jul 06, 2016
ND is no drain error code for the FAV6800A and most Maytag machines.
Is there water in the Wash Basket. If not this could be a stuck Pressure Switch. If there is water in the Wash Basket then there could be a Drain Pump issue/Drain Line clog.
If you want to DIY I can help you.
on Jun 25, 2016
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