Maytag Performa LAT2500A - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check pump isnt blocked.normally a bung to undo at base.water will come out.have a towel etc handy

It holds 3.9 cu feet. According to Maytag "This 3.9 cu. ft. capacity high-efficiency washer also features the MaxExtract™ option, which spins clothes at up to 1,300 RPM and means less time doing laundry. You get all that and still use 79 percent less water and 76 percent less energy". A cubic foot is the volume of a cube whose sides are all 1 foot long.

seems to be a transmisson problem, the pump is driven by the motor also. so the motor should be ok. and the agitator works ok. believe it would be a transmission gear failure.

Hi,

1 Cubic Foot = 28.3168466 Liters

Regarding the exact definition, you could refer to :-

http://www.ehow.com/about_4672014_what-cubic-feet.html

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

I am not a repair person but I have this exact washer, and this problem all of the time. You probably have sediment blocking the water from coming through the cold water hose. Turn off the main water supply valve where the hoses are connected, then disconnect the cold water hose from this end ( not the end connected to the machine). There probably is a little plastic filter with a rubber gasket on the inside of the end of the hose. Remove this filter and gasket, noting how it is in there so you can replace it exactly the same way. Clean out this little filter in sink to remove all sand, dirt, sediment. Replace filter back in end of hose and connect back to water valve. Turn main valve back on. This should make a huge difference in the stream of cold water that comes into your machine. I have very hard well water with a lot of sediment and need to do this procedure about once a month. However, we just got a filter attached to our well holding tank so hopefully this will catch the majority of sediment before it goes through the house and into my washing maching hoses!.
Good Luck!

The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source..."Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being hardest) I'd call it a 3.5. If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job. It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear. Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer. The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier. This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board. My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor. All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor. As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft. The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together. There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish. Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





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The first thing is you need to replace lid switch thats why it's filling then stopping...

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. The banging your washer is experiencing is caused by two things. Either the Tub bearing: (Item 21) http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47786&diagram_id=665652#d665652

Detailed View:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4372971

or the damper pads are worn (Item 8) http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47786&diagram_id=695761#d695761

Detailed View: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4024203

The whole top end of the washer must be disassembled to gain access to the tub bearing. The damper pads can be changed by removng the lower drive pullley and suspension springs then lifting the tub assy away from the base.

There is a possibility that something a simple as the leveling legs just need adjusted. If you can press down on all top 4 corners one at a time and the unit teeters then the legs need adjusted so that they all touch the floor.

If the material condition of the washer is still in good shape I would do any of the above repairs and keep this washer in service even IF I had to call a repair person.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

It sounds like your pressure switch tube fell off. You will need to replace your brake assy on the the washer which requires a special brake tool that has to be ordered. You may want to call a tech because the brake tool is like 80 bucks. The reason this occurs is the brake stops too hard and jerks the tub which pulls the tube loose. Hope this helps _MJ_

The most common cause that matches your symptom would be the lid switch part number 2200340. It is number 3 in the picture at this link.

http://www.whirlpoolparts.ca/parts/fspShowPage.php?model=LAT2500AAE&pageNo=5

It could also have tripped the out of balance switch but that should have reset when you tried to restart the machine.

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly
Just as you raise or close the lid you should hear an audible click from the lid switch. It will be faint but audible. If you do not hear a click then there is a problem with the lid switch. See item 18 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=47786&diagram_id=675654#d675654

1. Unplug the washer.

You gain access to the lid switch by removing the 2 screws in the lower front panel then pull the bottom of the front panel toward you / outward then off. After that you will remove the 2 bolts (Item 20 of link above) and tip the top straight up from the front. The lid switch will be in the center of the back of the lid area inside the top panel.

If there is water in the unit select SPIN on the timer.

You can remove the 2 wires from the lid switch and jumper them together to see if the machine works. If it works the lid switch is bad.

Reassemble in reverse order....

If you still have problems after trying this just respond here and I will get back to you asap.

Kelly

if it just fills with water and does nothing else then its probably the lid switch

it must be motor run away condition. motor must have exceeded its design speed and the internal windings must have parted off. you did the right thing. but, when your son switched on again, it would have run for few minutes with all internal extra friction and stopped with burnt smell. you have lost the motor. but, before replacing the motor get the speed control system checked.

LAT is a washer
Noisy motor need to be replace

could be your brakes slipping causing it to squeel

brushes on motor

not good at all, transmission seal is leaking most likely due to a failed bearing in the washer tub

the snubber ring is worn out can order 1 from REPAIRCLINIC.com part #1055142 also a heavy spring kit is available!

Hi


Thank You for using FixYa. If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump
If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.
To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.
Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.
If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.
It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.
It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:
If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.
If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.



Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

Most Maytag washers have 2 belts - looks like the drive belt is not good anymore and needs to be replaced.