And when you open the door the freezer or fridge emblem is flashing we push the button once then all good for another 10 hours
Check to see if it is closed properly, sometimes something sticking close to the door will keep it cracked open far enough for the system to detect a problem, if that isn't the case, try this, I found a simmilar case here on Fixya, that looks like it was solved,
http://www.fixya.com/support/t212511-beeping_constantly_in_middle_night
also Whirpool has forums that are rather informative
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1369884
unfortunately I can't give You much more than that, sorry.
First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.
Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.
SOURCE: uneven cooling in fridge and annooying alarm every 10 hours!
Hi,
if the compressor is running your ref. should be getting cold. Their is a defrost timer but when it is in defrost the compressor shuts off. I think you do have a leak.
thanks,
SOURCE: HI, I have a Fisher
Hi,
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning
Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting
Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor
heatman101
SOURCE: The alarm beep which tells you to close
Hello,
Sounds like you have a bad door switch. Depending on the age of the fridge, it might still be under warranty. If it's not, then you might be able to access the door switch yourself and pull it out & replace it.
Good luck......
SOURCE: The fridge keeps beeping. Door is closed.
Hi,
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning
Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting
Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor
heatman101
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