20 Most Recent Samsung CoolTech Plus / Basic Bottom Mount Refrigerator SR-L676EV Questions & Answers


I had the same problem and I just removed the control panel / display from the top. It is still working fine 10 years later. Too late for you but might help someone.

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Apr 16, 2019


hi August.
Cause: A blocked defrost drain is one of the most common causes of water leakage. This happens when food particles or other debris clogs up the drain hose, which can lead to ice buildup and, eventually, water leaking out of the freezer and refrigerator.
3 common refrigerator problems you can easily fix yourself

The freezer drain hose will drain the defrost water into a drip pan at the bottom of the freezer. When this pan becomes full, it will leak water onto the floor. This is a regular maintenance task whenever the freezer defrosts. Empty the drip pan during the defrost cycle.
How to Fix Water Leaking From the Bottom of Freezer

Why is my fridge leaking water on the floor? If the refrigerator is leaking water it's possible that the refrigerator has a clogged or freezing defrost drain. If the defrost drain freezes the defrost water will overflow the drain and drip down to the bottom of the compartment, If enough water accumulates in the bottom it can run out onto the floor.
SOLVED Water leak in refrigerator Refrigerator

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Dec 03, 2017


FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE

A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.

The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection


Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


Read more:

http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"




Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Jan 03, 2017


it may not be necessary to remove the doors
open the doors fully and slide the fridge sideways through any door , one open door first , fridge then second door

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Jun 23, 2016


Frigorifico SR-L629EVSS faz frio at? a temperatura por ex: -18 4 depois desliga s? quando desligo da ficha e volto a ligar e a temperatura j? baixou .

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Apr 17, 2016


:
Hi!
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
It does a lot of clicking (trying to start over and over again)
If thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
I use part no ERP410 POWER START RELAY, CAPACITOR AND OVERLOAD all in one. (110 v)

If you still have trouble Go Here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Nov 01, 2015


i'm got a Samsung RSH1DTMH side by side and its doing the same thing. it seems to be once a week. Last night i opened it to get a drink about 23:30, and then dealt with the alarm, reset 10-15 minutes until 01:30 and then said "F-it" at that point i didnt care if i lost everything i n it. it stayed at -25 in freezer all night, +7 (set to +3) in fridge all lights on, normal operation noises. WHAT THE F GIVES SAMSUNGGGGGGG

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Oct 30, 2015


That simply means that your drain line is either clogged or frozen down to the drip pan. Clear the opening then put some hot water down the drain until it runs out.

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Aug 05, 2015


YOU HAVE A PROBLEM; WHEN YOU OVER POWER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS THEY BURN OUT OR WELD TOGETHER , OR GET SHORTENED OUT.

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Jun 21, 2015


Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required




















Fridge door walls are very hot:

the reason the outer side of the door seal area is getting hot is

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Apr 10, 2015


There are a couple of reasons it could be. If the freezer has a fan unit the fan may need tightening or the bearing is shot, or the compressor is low on gas and making the unit to work harder, hence the seemingly louder noise.

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Dec 03, 2014


check the manual for a reset button, or un plug it for 30 minutes then plug it back in.

check also the door switches, they could be malfunctioning, see if the lights are turning off when you press the switch.

tnx 4 using fixya,


drcool

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Aug 02, 2014


Look for a failure in the defrost system of the unit or a failure of the small circulating (evaporator) fan.

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Jul 27, 2014


If the fan is running in the freezer and there is some cooling, the evaporator (cooling coil) is probably iced up due to failed defrost timer or heater.

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Jul 27, 2014


A fridge or freezer will sound an alarm if it can't hold the temperature it is set to keep the interior to.
The cause can be, a bad or not running compressor, or the system lost cooling fluid. (Used to be freon, but not anymore)

Samsung CoolTech... | Answered on Jul 14, 2014

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