Fisher and Paykel Refrigerators - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Turn the Fridge OFF at the power socket, wait 10 seconds and turn it back On. If still beeping, You will need a Service Technician to assist with this.

See the site below for more help or to schedule a tech visit.

Fisher and... | Answered 2 days ago


First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.

Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.

Fisher and... | Answered on Jan 27, 2020


Try blowing compressed air up the drain tube.

Fisher and... | Answered on Jan 04, 2020


F20 does not stand for 20 degrees Fahrenheit you pleb. It is a fault code. Your fridge probably beeps 20 time when you open the door and then stops. To fix is simple and takes 5 mins. Remove the top left hand hinge cover and you will find a broken wire. Just switch off the fridge and then connect the wires together with a auto12v type connecter or solder it and use shrink tube. Switch the fridge back on and hay presto, you can fill your fridge to the max 3 times over with the money you just saved. It will happen again as the wiring loom they fit is well and not flexible. Use silicone insulated wire from J-car or similar and replace from the plug and reconnect inside the door where the wires don\'t bend. Hope this helps you.

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 27, 2019


HEY!!!!! If your breaker is tripping it means you have a short circuit - a serious safety issue.
Unless you are a qualified electrical tech, for safety reasons refer this one to a pro.

Fisher and... | Answered on Oct 18, 2019


My fridge is 11 years old and recently had the same problem; the freezer was cooling well, but the fridge compartment was not cooling enough. I searched the Web a read most answers. I thought the fan was faulty, but in fact it wasn't (the fridge has got 2 fans, one for each compartment, and they look very similar, the part number on mine was 883340). The whole problem was a build-up of ice in the condenser unit that is at the back of the freezer compartment. What happens is that the ice blocks the passage of air the fan for the fridge compartment. This of course stops the cool air circulating to the fridge compartment. I was able to repair the fridge an it is now working perfectly. This is what I did:
1) Removed everything from the fridge, food, shelves, the lot.
2) I made sure the fan for the fridge compartment was okay, by connecting it to a 9V battery; the fan was okay. (I did this because after reading the posts I was convinced the problem was a dead fan, but you can skip this step if you can hear the fan spinning and think it is okay). To check the fan, remove by pulling the toll plastic cover that fits below the smaller plastic cover with the temperature indicator. This cover is very flexible and flimsy, start pulling from near the bottom and continue along the right side, flexing it as you go along, until it comes free (there is an insulating plastic foam moulding underneath that comes with it). As soon as you remove this cover, you will see the small fan and the plugs. Unplug the fan's connector (it has a small lock you need to press) and wire it to a standard 9 volt battery. CAUTION: observe polarity! The battery positive terminal MUST be connected to the RED wire (or the fan burns!). If the fan is bad, you can remove it very easily by inserting 2 finger inside the white plastic holder, pushing the fan in (the fan is held with 3 very elastic thin silicon bands, that do not break) ,hooking the holder from the inside edge with your fingers and pulling. It will just come out through the slot. (I did this, but then had some problem in getting it back in place. I finally left it in a near flat position, but not quite as flat as it was. Nevertheless it works okay).
3) My fan was good (I wasted a lot of time doing this), so next I shifted my attention to the freezer compartment. I then noticed that the plastic cover at the bottom of the compartment was half dislodged from its proper location, all covered on ice. I removed the cover, breaking the ice that held it with care. This cover is difficult to remove, there is a lot of pushing and pulling, so be prepared and patient; do not break it (mine came out with a small locking leg broken, but it did go back in place without any problems). I then checked the second fan, that is on this cover; it was also okay.
4) As soon as I removed the cover I saw the problem...ice everywhere! I reached for the house hair drier and after about one hour it was all gone. Note that most of the problem ice is behind the condenser (small radiator looking aluminum frame, that should be left alone. Do not move, push or twist it).
5) once all the ice was removed, I the carefully pushed the radiator back in place at the bottom of the compartment (it just fits and had been displaced by the growth of ice), and replaced the plastic cover.
6) and voila! my fridge was again working perfectly. About 3 hours flat.

Fisher and... | Answered on Jun 27, 2019


i have a fisher and paykel 450L fridge and its been pissing water out underneath the vege crisper since day one, i was told by f&p whilst it was under warranty that it was because of the humidity and constant opening and closing, i finely had enough of cleaning up fridge pee! you shouldnt have to do this for a 2 year old fridge, god sakes the 20 year old beer fridge doesnt leak. rang f&p and booked a service call $121 fast bucks, had to be available from 12miday untill 5pm bloke showed up at 4.45. inside the fridge he took the back panel off and then got out a part from his bag a long black thing with wires and attached it to the?whatever, but get this! it wasnt a replacement part, this fridge never had this part, so what? did they forget to put it in? and ive have to put up with fridge pee for 2 years?? and why do i have to pay the $121? he told me i wouldnt have to pay for the part? whippee? i already paid for it when i bought the "faulty" fridge. ill be getting to the bottom of this, does f&p know there is a fault? and they dont bother to fess up? lucky they dont make cars!!!! took about 10min and so far no more fridge pee!!

Fisher and... | Answered on Jun 24, 2019


press the select button ( the button that you choose the temperature on the fridge and freezer) and check that the fan on both fridge and freezer are working.

Fisher and... | Answered on May 07, 2019


make sure it is totally defrosted before attempting to remove it they can be a little awkward, usually there is some kind of retainer to keep the collection grill in place if not then you need to been it outwards to reach the element,before you do that disconnect the element and test it with a multimeter to make sure it needs replacing

Fisher and... | Answered on Mar 28, 2019


CALL A LOCAL REPAIR SERVICE COMPANY

Fisher and... | Answered on Feb 11, 2019

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