Gbvh514hww Our washer keeps stopping at different points during the washing cycle, I can't pin point it to any current time and what it is doing at the point stopping. It is level, has no issues with that. I think it's happening during the rinse and spin but I'm not sure.

SOURCE: Machine stops during run time & lights keep flashing and beeping

it may be a balance problem

SOURCE: Washer continuously fills but drains at the same time during rinse cycle.

you have the drain pipe too low into tthe house drain pipe, raise the washers drain pipe up , you only need four inches down into the hous drain

also the house drain pipe needs to be as high as the lid of the machine before you put the washer drain tube into the house drain

you have a syphoning effect

SOURCE: Roper Washer Wont Spin Out

Probably a bad lid switch. Open the control panel. Disconnect the lid switch wire connector on top of the cabinet under the control panel. Make a small insulated jumper wire and insert it into the wire that is still connected to the control panel. Set the timer to spin. If it spins replace the lid switch in the cabinet. If not, replace the timer.

SOURCE: Water level issues on the Whirlpool washer.

It's overfilling If your washer is overfilling, check these:

Water-inlet valve
Water-level switch
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.

Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.

It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

The water temperature is incorrect The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected. 

If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.