Whirlpool Washing Machines - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

1. Unplug the washer for 1 minute from the electrical outlet.
2. Plug the washer back in and lift and lower the lid 6 times within a 12 second period. You have 30 seconds to start lifting and lowering the lid. ...
3.The motor has now been reset and is ready for you to start a cycle.

The drain pump runs constantly in an effort to drain the water. Unplug the washer and, if the washer is overfilled, check the water inlet valve assembly for proper shut-off of water flow. If the water inlet valve assembly is defective, replace it. If the washer is empty when this error code appears, replace the water-level pressure switch.

Three videos

https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=ALeKk03FtGnxZtwE3KFuI5pC-m3RuStjSg%3A1588631748991&ei=xJiwXtOMPOrH_QaF9ru4AQ&q=whirlpool+washing+machine+how+to+remove+agitator

We had this problem, and resolved it. It can occur in the washer or dryer. The reason was along the outside edge of the BACK of the drum, there were tiny metal "spikes" that you can feel if you lightly run your finger tips over the whole area. They are likely caused by leaving a loose metal object in the washer or dryer and it banging around. Replacement drums are hard to find anymore, and cost over $600. The cheap and permanent fix is to use a product called Water Weld epoxy by JB Weld, found at most hardware stores, to cover over the spikes. Use sandpaper to first rough up the area a bit so it will stick better, per the instructions. You can see this on the photos. Then mix a small amount following the directions on the inside of the label, and spread it thinly over any area with spikes. It's OK if the surface of the epoxy is rough after drying, it won't damage your clothes, even delicates. We did this over six months ago, and it works great - no more torn clothes! It withstands hot water and dryer heat. Good luck!

bad seal in tub

check under agitator see if cogs bad or splines to tub bad if ok bad pump

That is because you haven't addressed the issue. Clean the outlet water pump and check the pipe is clear.

I am attaching the link for parts. This is most likely a spring that has broken or come loose. https://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSymptoms.aspx?ModelNum=LSR8233EQ0&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=3&source=GAWS&term=LSR8233EQ0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7f211dXW6AIVCP5kCh1E8g0vEAAYASAAEgK8t_D_BwE&ModelMasterID=52267&PID=28

May be this video is helpful
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qfCrphwO8TY

Simply reset by pressing the big red button on your spa pack. The high limit switch may be housed in a thermowell. If the water temperature in the thermowell is the same as the water temperature in the rest of the spa, the switch is damaged and needs to be replaced.
https://aqualivingstores.com/support/common-hot-tub-high-limit-switch-problems/

if you turn knob pass does machine respond - spin -rinse if does possible control problem if doesent then possible mechanical problem in [ transmission ] gearing unit

Here you can Whirlpool error codes https://www.whirlpoolservice.co.uk/washing-machine-repair/error-codes

No agitation?

first use a multi meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( If No wash- thenTHE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.


Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
.

If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? )
or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt .

Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator.
Also check THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitator spline as well. for worn broken teeth
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!












No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.

Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, motor coupler, brake assembly, transmission, and mode shifter or actuator. one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.

Or try the hand test:

If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test.WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.

- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand
- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin
- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand
- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.

Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)

Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.

On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller.Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.

LIDSWITCH TEST- next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block

If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.

Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

Usually either the lid lock mechanism, the lid lock actuator or the board is the culprit even a disconnected capacitor.

MACHINES SAIDSSENSINGWhen the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washerwill slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has beenadded for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load.NOTE: The sensing lightmay also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.

Tryunplugging the cord a couple of times.See what happens then try going into diagnostic error codes, see what codes are shown. To pin point where the problem is.if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.This is proof that theshifter/sensor actuatorassembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

I suggestunplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance(ohms)of the lock motor.

Note: After performingthe manual test and thelid lockworksperfectly, or at leastas it is supposed to. Youcan eliminate that as the problem.If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cyclethen I suspect the controlboardis at fault.

A safety feature found on front load washing machine is thedoor switchand the door lock and strike. On most models, the door switch must be closed and the door lock must be activated before the washer will start. The switch is normally located in the door frame of the washing machine, but may also be part of the door lock assembly. Inspect the strike to make sure that it engages the door lock assembly and that the door remains closed. To check the door switch for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to disconnect the power and remove the front panel.

The lid switchon a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when thelOnsome models, the water inlet valve circuit is controlled as well. If the lid switch fails, the washer may not start. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, then the switch may be defective

The start switchon some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in
God is good and that's why I give free advice.

TRY FIXING THE LID SWITCH THEN

Here you can find a solution for any kind of complications occurred in your Whirlpool Washing Machine.
http://aktechnoservice.com/whirlpool-washing-machine-service-center-in-hyderabad

Sounds like your water valve is leaking. If you shut the water valves off at the wall and it stops then for sure your valve is leaking. The leaking from under the washer could be coming from the pump leaking, overloading, hoses leaking on the connections or a tub seal. I would check the pump first, just tip it back a little and see if you feel water on the pump, it's right up front. This washer is very easy to work on.

CALL REPAIR SERVICE OR GO BUY A NEW UNIT THE POWER CONTROL BOARD HAS FAILED AND IS QUITE COSTLY .OVER 350.00 US

Hello...the first thing I would check is the motor control board located inside the unit at the bottom, left side. This thing is the bane of your existence(lol) for these washers...they are notorious for having parts literally exploding off the boards.(This board handles all the heavy duty current that drives the main motor). Nine times out of ten the MCU, as it's known, is the culprit. This board usually runs around 250.00 give or take some depending on where you purchase it. When I service customers, I unplug the unit FIRST, then, remove the bottom front cover, then completely remove the MCU. Next, I actually carefully remove the MCU board from the plastic holder it's mounted in and inspect it. I look for burn or scorch marks indicating a short or small blast! More often than not, I find one or more parts blown off the board! There are tests you can perform(if no burn or scorching is found) if you have the tech sheet handy(that's the paper pamphlet inside the plastic envelope stuck to the inside of the front, bottom cover.) I hope I've helped you.

English only!

Whirlpool Duet Washer F25 Error. The F25 error is a problem with the washer motor's tachometer. It means the main control cannot determine the spin speed of the motor. This error can be caused by the motor, the motor control board, the main control board, or a wiring issue between all.

Whirlpool Duet Washer F25 Error Troubleshooting and Repair