20 Most Recent 1984 Ford LTD - Page 6 Questions & Answers


Have a look at the power steering fluid cooler it is just in front of the radiator behind the front bumper. The coolers corrode and leak. Also the seals can go, check for fluid leaking out of the boots at the track rods. Try this procedure :--- 1)Trace the source of the leak. Use a mirror on an extended handle to follow the puddle of fluid on your garage floor to the power steering system. Look on the hoses and gaskets to find from where the fluid could be leaking. 2) Add power steering stop leak additive to your power steering fluid. Lucas Power Steering Stop Additive is 100 percent guaranteed to stop seal leaks. In older cars, the seals shrink, causing leaks. The stop leak makes the seals swell to their original size. 3) Use gasket sealant if the gaskets are old and leaking. Sealant, such as Permatex, is resistant to engine fluids, and will help repair a leaky gasket. 4) Replace the gasket, if the gasket sealant does not work. Thanks. you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on May 19, 2010


The ignition switch can be just an SPST toggle switch that connects power from the battery side of the starter solenoid to the battery side of the ignition resistor. The starter switch is just a normally-open single-pole push-button. The starter solenoid usually has two small terminals and two large terminals. Wire one small terminal to the battery side of the solenoid and the other small terminal to the starter switch. The other side of the starter switch goes to a good grounding point. This allows the starter to be operated at any time whether the ignition is on or not. Remove a battery terminal to prevent kids from starting the car or turning the ignition on and running the battery down. Hope this helps!

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on May 16, 2010


The cables come pre-wired in a frame, you have to replace the whole frame, bolt the glass to it and hook up the motor. It is fairly easy to do, especially when they want $150 to do it for you, The rear ones are harder. Usually when they come apart like yours did, the plastic guides have broken, there is no fix to these. And they usually all go at the same time. Hope this helps.

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on Mar 23, 2010


HHi


Thanks for using FixYa. If you do not have sufficient voltage and cranking power, the car simply won't start. Have someone attach booster cables to your battery if the engine seems to be turning over slower than normal. If the battery seems charged, and the starter motor still doesn't turn the engine, the problem may be in your starter motor itself, or the battery cables. Changing the starter is not too complicated, but if you decide to attempt this, try to find someone who has done it before to help you, or buy a do it yourself manual that has a description and pictures of what you need to do. You can also test to see if the voltage is going thru to the starter motor, if not some times you can cross jump the solenoid and start the car. Remove a spark plug wire from your spark plug and use an insulation handled screwdriver to ground the metal fitting inside the spark plug boot to the engine, and have someone turn the engine over while you watch for a spark. You should have the metal screwdriver shaft about an eighth of an inch from a clean metal surface on the engine, and be careful not to touch any un-insulated parts of the tool while testing the plug. If you do not have a spark, you have an ignition circuit problem, and depending on the vintage of your vehicle, you may have to replace anything from a coil wire to an ignition CPU, or computer. In addition to above, some related points to check are as under:-
1. The no ignition light is likely caused by either a problem in the electrical system or in the fuel system. Your engine stops running because it is not igniting gas in the cylinders, this occurs either because there isn't gas to ignite, or because it lacks the electrical charge to ignite it.

2. Drive the car up and down steep hills. Does this change the performance of the engine, or cause it to no ignition light? This might indicate a clogged fuel filter. Replacing the fuel filter is relatively cheap and easy once you find out where it's located.

3. Does the car idle roughly and no ignition light when at idle? If your car has a distributor, you may need to adjust the timing. With the right tools and know how, this is an easy and free task. If your vehicle has fuel injection, you can check the injector by using a screw driver or mechanics scope. The injectors will make a clicking/snapping sound if working. No sound would indicate a bad injector available at most DIY auto parts stores. Also check the ICM, idle control motor that controls the air mixture.

4. If your car has a distributor, you might consider changing the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. This is effectively a tune up. This can usually be done even by a relative novice to car repair, and take a couple of hours with the right tools. It seems counterintuitive, but even the wires and distributor decay over time, and transmit less electricity. This tune up may solve your no ignition lighting problem -- even if not, your car should run better and get better mileage.

5. If your car diesels when you turn off the ignition, it often signals the need to replace the spark plugs. Dieseling describes the situation where you turn off the key, yet the car continues to run for a few seconds or longer, eventually sputtering to a stop.

6. In rare cases, your car may no ignition light due to what is commonly called a "vapor lock". It is actually a vacuum in the fuel line that causes fuel to eventually stop reaching the engine. Try opening your gas cap. If you hear a "whooshing" sound, like when you open a can of coffee, it's vapor lock. Now try starting the car. It should work after a couple tries. This is usually found only in older cars. If you have it, this will probably happen again, so your fuel line should be checked for blockage. A cheap fix is to drill a small hole in your gas cap to allow air in and prevent the vacuum from forming, but it should not be left this way.

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on Feb 23, 2010


Jack the car up and block it under the frame so the front wheel is clear. Remove the wheel. You should be able to see where the shock comes out of the upper control arm. Usuallt the shaft will turn when you try to remove the nut so use a pair of Vise Grips and hold the shaft at the top where it is squared off and a box end wrench to turn the nut off. Undo the 2 bolts at the lower control arm and the shock will fall out. Don't worry if the bolts break, they are just regular Grade 5 bolts.
installation is the reverse. The new shock willhave to be compressed to get the bottom bolts started. Just be sure that the top shaft is in the hole before you do. Hope this helps.

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on Feb 10, 2010


if it was me i would stop by a ford dealer in the parts department to see if they can help you are your local autozone,napa and see if they can order you a haynes auto repair manual i really like having one for all of the fords i have here is a number that is in one of my haynes manuals it (805)4986703 and the address is Haynes North America,Inc.,861 Lawrence Drive,Newbury park CA 91320

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on Jan 04, 2010


Check the rear brakes,they need adjusting ,or replaced.

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on Dec 20, 2009


its direct injeccion or prechamber,?ford sometimes use a pencil injecctor model wich not use a glow plug ok,be sure what model do you have.

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on Nov 24, 2009


have you tried replaceing plugs, wires, dist cap. if not then distributer. then timing chain

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on Oct 29, 2009


You need to look at your exhaust manifold to see if the problem is there,and most likey that is your problem and replace them or witch ever one the exhaust leak is at.

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on Sep 12, 2009


take the headlight units out,wash iside with soap and water let them dry and to give shine on the out side there is a product that restores the shine to dull head lights.its sold in autozone

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on Sep 09, 2009


Hi
To supply and fit a new ford clutch kit if cable clutch about £300 if hydraulic about£400

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on Aug 27, 2009


this is the tire pressure monitor light try checking the tire pressure if all are right you might have a bad sensor in one of the wheels and will need to take to dealer to have it replaced.

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on Aug 26, 2009


either with a brake spoon or by backing up at 15mph and hitting the brakes hard, because most have auto ajusters that ratchet up when you back up and hit the brakes. if that doesn't work, take it to a brake shop and have the adjusters checked, as they can gum up and not work properly.

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on Aug 25, 2009


hi from uk if you have to turn engine a little longer than normally? on initial start fro cold? and then starts/runs ok for rest of day ? then more than likely your engines glow plugs are in early stage of failing/burning out? these engines rely on pre heat of cylinders when starting especially from cold so they have glow plugs for this purpose indication of burning out is the grey smoke you report on cold starts this is fuel that is not being combusted due to poor cylinder compression/s being heated on first start but when engine heats up no problems so i suggest you renew all 4 glow plugs they are easy diy job and you can purchase from good motor stores not necessarily dealers they are just like spark plugs usually 10 mm socket/spanner to change em after disconnecting the elec supply cable from each hope this helps and inspires you? if milage is high then they are in need of renewal

Ford LTD Cars &... | Answered on Nov 09, 2008


Direction indicators are usually very reliable, though all the wires come together at the hazard light switch, consequently many indicator problems can be caused by a faulty hazard switch - little used hazards are often a problem especially when the occupants are smokers though operating the switch rapidly for a minute or two usually restores operation.

Other than the wiring to the hazards, the indicator circuit is relatively simple but there is little point declaring the switch and the fuse is ok - unless you have checked these things with a meter or testlamp.
In spite of the circuit being simple, things like multiway connections, terminal crimps and lots of wire provide lots of chances for faults to develop and only chasing the power through the circuit with a means of checking has a chance of finding most problems...

Ford Cars &... | Answered 2 days ago


That doesn't look like English in our wholly North American website where we only speak English!

Aqui

https://www.google.com/search?q=97+ford+f250+fuse+box+diagram

..

Ford Cars &... | Answered 3 days ago

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