How can I soak clothes overnight?

SOURCE: maytag neptune front loader washer has NF error code

Does it agitate and does the door lock light come on? Theres a panel on the back you can take off via 4 screws. Here you can check the belt and watch to see if it spins or moves at all. If the door lock light comes on, and you here the door click. Than chances are your motor control board is bad. Seen this many times. Im actually replacing one tomorrow on the exact washer.I believe the part # is 22004045. Heres a diagram. If the door doesnt lock than you need either a lock assy or a new computer for it. The computer is in the top panel where the timer is. If you look at it you should see a burnt resistor. If no burnt resistor than its more likely th lock assy. Ill try and find the part # for the lock and computer, and a digram. Hope this helps. Dave www.washermd.com

SOURCE: spins fine, but clothes still soaking wet

Clogged water pump. Not draing fast enough. If this is helpful, please post as such.

SOURCE: clothes are sill soaking wet after sin cycle

When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

• If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
  
  
• If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
  
  

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

SOURCE: Maytag Epic Z Front Load

The error code is not 5 D it is "S" as in Sierra D. The letters stand for Slow Drain.
I had this code and it was fixed in 10 minutes or less.
Simply remove the bottom panel from the front of the washer. You do this by removing the three screws at the very bottom of the front panel. There is a screw on the bottom left, bottom right, and bottom middle.
Once the screws are removed the front panel should drop down slightly, and then you can remove the front panel.
On my peticular model the drain pump had a very large circular tube with what looks like a twist off handle in the middle.
On mine, you rotate the handle counter-clockwise. It's very stiff at first. This is because of the thick rubber seal that you are rotating against.
After about one complete spin it should get very easy to spin and you unscrew it completely off, and pull straight out.
On mine, the back of the tube you pull out contains a tray that hold junk coming out of the wash.
The tray has holes for water to pass through to get to the pump.
When I took mine out, there was one quarter, and one nickel in the tray. That was all it took to clog the dain holes so the drain water moved too slow.
The on-board computer measures the water flow and can tell if it is moving too slow.
Keep in mind, sometimes the money in the tray must have vibrated off to the side just enough that the drain flow was fine.
My error code would be there one day, and not reappear for about two days. Then it would come back every day for about 3 or 4 days in a row.
It was very irratic to pin down when the code would appear, and when the wash would be fine.
I cleaned out the money and some very minor lint and re-assembled.
It's been 3 months and the code has not come back.

SOURCE: Maytag Centennial washer agitates when

Don't know what it is , but the 3 guys above me are wrong