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Check to see if your amp has relays in the output lines. If so, they are designed to prevent you hearing the pop at power up which can damage your speakers. Relay contacts wear and the control circuit that operates the relays may have a problem.
Looks like the amplifier output transistors have blown (hence the pop). Quite expensive too repair - I would have a look on eBay for a cheap used but working Kenwood receiver, it would probably work out cheaper.
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Check the fuse for the power amp and check that it's plugged in this is inside the trunk if all is good the on/off switch I know it turns on but the potentiometer part may be broken inside this part deals with the volume control
You can try a hard reset: Unplug unit from AC mains and remove all cables from unit . Wait about 3 hrs and replug to AC power and redo the cabling. Switch on the unit and see if it works..
Its likely a dirty contact on safety relays or volume track.
Remove power and rotate volume min to max 5or 6 times.
Or it needs safety relay contacts cleaning/repairing or ensure the volume is turned to bottom before you end up popping a cone on your speakers.
Audio Equipment: Is the loud popping sound when you plug/unplug your speakers bad for them? Most speaker cones are driven from a power amplifier.. The pop - like you said - is a transient spike. But the important thing here is that it gets amplified up through the pre-amp and into the power amp.. Speakers usually move in the ol' in-out fashion with respect the the voltage at the input.. and a big spike could loosen the cone from its suspension mechanism.. The higher the power and the more delicate the cone - the more the danger to the speakers ( what is normal for a woofer cone, could end blowing up a tweeter cone) . For e.g. In live events, where high output PA speakers are used, this is a very serious issue - because such a spike could throw the speaker cone out of its place, and it wouldn't work from that point on. For this reason, some high end audio equipment have a limiter at the output, that prevents signal from exceeding a certain predefined limit. So any occuring transients would never hit the cone at a level that is unhealthy to them.
Most home audio equipment tends to operate at lower levels. That being said, there is still some damage inflicted on the speakers - just maybe not of the same magnitude.. especially the smaller ones.
If your system has a remote control, it might be wise to hit a mute button just before you change to another input... or maybe find a way to turn off just the speakers (if separately powered) before you interchange the connection
This is because your clean channel only runs through the pre-amp section, requiring an increased volume level to match that of the volume of the drive section which is overdriven by the pre-amp circuit. my suggestion is to use lower volume level on the clean channel of the amp. To get any volume boost you may need to match the two channels you could use a signal/volume booster or overdrive pedal between your guitar and amp input, switching it off and back on when you switch back and forth between channels.
Hello. You probably did not have that tv plugged into a surge protector. When the power was restored, a surge came through the line. A power surge is a spike in voltage above the maximum a tv, appliance etc. can handle of 169 volts. They are very brief, usually lasting millinths of a second. Power surges can vary in duration and magnitude, varying from a few hundred volts to several thousand volts.
That said, now what do you do. If the tv is under 3 years old I recommend that you take it into a local TV repair shop for a free estimate of repair. If it is older than that, I would not repair, just replace. J.
What it might (definitely) be is a big repair bill. Alot of mfg's don't put fuses on the amp sections. They use relays. It's probably a transistor or power amp module that fried. What initially may have happened is that: You got a power spike and it weakened the internals. Happens to PC power supplies quite a bit.
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