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Dennis L Posted on Oct 31, 2012
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Start Button assembly broken

Push button start button assembly is broken, need to remove front panel

1 Answer

Richard Roth

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  • Frigidaire Master 9,472 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 01, 2012
Richard Roth
Frigidaire Master
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Joined: Nov 14, 2010
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What is the model number of your unit?

  • 1 more comment 
  • Dennis L Nov 01, 2012

    MODEL # FCCW3000FS5 MANF DATE 2/2011

  • Richard Roth
    Richard Roth Nov 01, 2012

    Here is the start switch to order.http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/clic... Just remove the top to gain access to the switch.

  • Dennis L Nov 01, 2012

    Thanks but I am trying to open the machine so I may access the panel so I can replace the part. I alredy have the part

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5 Related Answers

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Sep 09, 2007

SOURCE: front panel removal

make and model number would help, post these details and i may be able to help

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Anonymous

  • 90 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 10, 2008

SOURCE: How to remove top panel and front facia on a Hotpoint Aquarius WDF451 washing machine

Un plug it. There should be small screws either at the bottom of the panel on the front or there is separate panel that comes off the top back. If the back is one solid piece top to bottom, then the control panel lifts out and hinges up when the two small cross tip screws are removed from the bottom outside corners of the control panel..

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 14, 2008

SOURCE: Front Loading Duet Washer will not start

I've got same problem, with the door stuck shut, door lock NOT on, water trapped in the machine, and still no solution. 8 pages of messages and no solution.

Anonymous

  • 5911 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 22, 2008

SOURCE: How to remove the washer cycle selection/start-stop knob on a Whilpool Heavy Duty Thin Twin stacked washer dryer

I believe the selector knob on a Whirpool just has to be turned counter-clockwise with the selector pushed in. It will spin off the shaft and then the outer indicator dial will pull off. The shaft also has a keyed slot that will only allow the dial to be removed and installed one way, so there should be no question as to how it goes back on.

Was there a reason as to why you are removing the washer selector knob? If this is a simple matter of replacing a broken water temperature selector, you shouldn't have to remove any of the control knobs to gain access to the selector. The entire front panel comes off by removing the screws holding it in place. That way you can access the broken selector from behind the front panel much easier. Just remove the panel right above the washer top (under the dryer) and it should expose the front panel mounting screws. Remove these screws and the front panel comes off. Just make sure the unit is unplugged before you begin. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you need further assistance.

Anonymous

  • 2605 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 18, 2011

SOURCE: i have a kenmore he 4t front loader washer. Code

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

This is a general remedy for most Whirlpool made front-load machines, such as Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana etc. The "Sd" or "F2" is the same as F21 on most Whirlpool washer's and indicates the machine has detected too much soap or a obstruction in the drain process.

Chances are the pump itself is being obstructed by debris or some other foreign object as opposed to being faulty, although the faulty pump can`t be ruled out...yet.


**Turn off the breaker at the service panel or unplug the washer from the wall socket...safety first**

1) locate the screws in front at the very bottom of the panel below the door and pull the panel down and forward until it is off. They will be either 1/4" hex head or #20 torx head screws.

2) You will immediately see the drain pump in front of you with a large removable filter. ( **see image below...this is were a wet-dry shop vac and towels come in handy, also the use of the removed panel as a catch pan is beneficial...but you may still get wet )
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3) Turn it counter-clockwise should allow you to remove it and inspect it and clean it out. Make a good thorough inspection inside the pump as well not just the removable filter.

4) Re-insert the filter and before placing the panel back run a test rinse/drain cycle to inspect for leaks and to verify the unit drains and spins now.

( If the problem still exist`s the Sd or "F2" or "F21" will re-appear. If so you`ll need to check the hose/rubber bellows from pump to tub...back-flow ball...for other obstructions ).

5) If all appears OK after your efforts, well your efforts paid off...pat yourself on the back. You just saved yourself potentially a couple hundred bucks !

Now You should be good to go. Re-attach the lower panel and you`re back in business.

**NOTE: if this still fails to remedy the Sd, F2, F21 or if it returns immediately during the next drain you may require a pump unfortunately...part # 280187 available at "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclinic.com" etc.


**This however can also be caused by the back-flow ball inside the bellows which connects the tub to the pump. There is a large clamp which secures it to the tub, but if you remove it to clean out all the dirt built up inside, make sure you get it good and secure when putting it back.**
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Thanks for choosing FixYa. Please take a moment to rate the solution provided for you here today. Good luck.

Regards,
Macmarkus :)

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FAQE7001LW dryer start button doesn't stay on

  1. Turn off the power and then Unplug the dryer.Pull the knob off and pull the control knob straight up and off of the front of the push-to-start switch.Remove the back panel off the dryer.Remove the push-to-start switch.Install the new push-to-start switch.Reattach the back panel on the dryer.Reinstall the control knob.Restore power to the dryer.
The button might be broken or stuck or jammed and needs to be replaced.
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Hello! From the symptom you describe, a few things need to be checked. Have you had a power outage within the last 3-4 weeks? They are NOTORIOUS for damaging circuit boards in washers, dryers, dishwashers, and microwave ovens. First, check the start button--this dryer uses a button/spring assembly that presses a button on the main control panel. It can break causing the button to be pushed in but not actually press the button on the control board(diagram# 11, pic 7). Second, make sure the door switch (diagram#26, pic 4) is working by opening the dryer door and pushing the button in. The light should turn off. Then, holding the button in, push the start button and see if the dryer runs. Third, grasp the dryer drum inside by holding onto one of the paddles that push the clothes around. Slowly push/spin the drum back and forth. You should feel some resistance from the dryer belt spinning the blower fan and motor. If the drum feels "loose" and moves very freely, the belt might have broken or slipped off the idler pulley(spring-tensioned pulley that keeps the belt tight on the drum). There is a safety switch mounted on the motor that opens should the belt break or come off. The dryer will act normally but will not start at all because the blower won't be able to push cooling air through the unit. The following must be done with the **power removed** At this point, if you are hesitant about performing any of the following troubleshooting steps, CALL FOR SERVICE! You will need a voltage/ohm meter and have to open up the top cover of the dryer to access the safety thermostat mounted at the top of the heater assembly at the rear of the dryer(diagram#33, pic 6). Disconnect one of the wires and check across the thermostat(temperature activated safety fuse) with the meter set to ohms or continuity. If the thermostat is good, you will read almost zero ohms of resistance or the meter will beep on continuity telling you that the fuse is still intact. You can also absolutely verify that the dryer belt is indeed still tightly pulled around the drum and not broken. To access the control thermistor which is mounted on the blower housing at the bottom front of the dryer, the entire front panel must be removed(Or, you can check the wires at the main control board--blue and blue/white stripe.) To check this sensor, remove one of the wires and having the meter set to ohms, verify that the resistance is correct(see schematic diagram, pic 1) for specifications of this sensor. There is a blue wire and a blue wire with a white stripe attached to it. If all the preceding checks are ok, the problem is most likely a defective main control board. NOTE: YouTube has a lot of great videos showing disassembly techniques. Use the model number for your dryer as a reference and check for vids there. I hope I helped you!
PART NUMBERS
SAFETY THERMOSTAT--3204267(diagram# 33, pic 6)
CONTROL THERMISTOR--134587700(diagram# 15, pic 3)
DOOR SWITCH--131843101(diagram# 26, pic 4)
DRYER BELT--134503600
MAIN CONTROL BOARD--134484201(diagram# 1, pic 7)
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There will be screws along back at the top holding the top panel. Using the appropriate screw head screw driver you will have to get these screws out, lift the top panel slightly and push out towards the front. This should disengage the panel from the notch on the main body and come out. That will get you access to the console.
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Disconnect power to the washer and open the door. Remove the door gasket retaining hoop by stretching apart the retaining spring at the bottom of the door opening. Gently peel the part of the door gasket near the door lock/latch assembly off the lip of the right side of the door opening. Remove enough of the door gasket to access the door lock/latch assembly behind the front panel.

Remove the three screws securing the door lock/latch assembly to the front panel and slightly lift it then pull it back off the front panel. Pull the door lock/latch assembly out of the washer and disconnect the wiring harnesses.

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Connect the wiring harness to the new door lock/latch assembly and install it back in place behind the front panel. the door lock/latch assembly and put the eased part of the door gasket back into position over the lip of the door opening.

Check that the door gasket is properly seated before putting back and securing the retaining hoop around the lip of the door opening and the door gasket.
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Hi, If you release the start button, does the hum stop? It sounds like hte start winding in the motor is bad. You can try and start it manualy by truning the timer on, open the door so that you can turn the drum with your hand. You will need anoth person there so that one of you can hold the door switch button in and the other push the start button. While pushing the start button, try turning the tub and see if it starts. This will give you an idea on the motor bad or not.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if you need any more assistance.

Thanks
Vic
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