Dryers - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


First of all the item I referred to in my question is actually a heat exchanger located below the dryer drum.
The maintenance man in the condo said remove it and clean it with soap and water. I did have a garden hose with a sprayer so I used the bath tube to give it a good cleaning.
It now looks clean and I cleaned the housing where this part is located with vaccuum and wet cleaning.
jtoolan 6-12-09 7:45 AM

Bosch Axxis... | Answered Yesterday


High level thermostat is over heating and stopping the machine. Remove the hose and the back and clean out all the fluff from the hose and the rear of the machine. The check the outside vent and clean all that out, making sure that the flap opens and closes.

Dryers | Answered Yesterday


As your question revolves around how to gain access into the dryer, this video may help

https://youtu.be/Sh3VC5TpdFI

Dryers | Answered Yesterday


THEY WILL NOT TAKE THEM BACK TOO OLD 07 TO 20 IS 13 YEARS .

Hampton Bay 52... | Answered 2 days ago


You just need the switch by the sounds of it.

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Hampton Bay... | Answered 2 days ago


Replace your Timer knob. The contacts inside your timer that controls the motor has burned(arced) together. Not a hard part to place. BUT VERY HIGH VOLTAGE, so unplug. Or call a pro if not comfortable doing job yourself. Timer part # 3976576

Whirlpool Dryers | Answered on Apr 04, 2020


Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:
Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At timesit may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QP1Z4OWjTuA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKLDrzXlzHM
GOD IS GOOD !!!! AND THAT IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

Whirlpool Dryers | Answered on Apr 04, 2020


Electric dryer no start does nothing
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage.

CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING.

NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position.

If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor.
Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor.
Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings
Another thing to checkis the belt safety switch. With a multi meter.
Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released.

Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhVUEhngZMg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xD7lCXJ0ZM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs


Hey GOD IS GOOD !!!! WHICH IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

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Bosch Nexxt WTMC... | Answered on Apr 04, 2020


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket.Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually)Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
Read more :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g
http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.
GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMP7BW1lLs4

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Whirlpool Dryers | Answered on Apr 04, 2020


The Kenmore 417.81102003 was built by Frigidaire. The E61 error usually means a problem with the heater relay or the wiring. The E64 error indicates the problem may be the heating element or the wiring. To further diagnose the problem, you need to unplug the dryer and disconnect the exhaust hose. Then use the trouble-shooting sheet and wiring diagram that is usually inside the machine. (Often the sheet is inside the unit behind the control panel and accessed after removing part of the back). You will need a multi-meter to check for resistance and continuity across the relay, element and wiring.

The parts list and a copy of the wiring diagram is available here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/4yud5cg7hp-000583/kenmore-elite-41781102000-dryer-parts .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Kenmore Dryers | Answered on Mar 31, 2020


try homedepot
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Lighting-Ceiling-Fan-Parts/Hampton-Bay/N-5yc1vZbvmwZp4

Hampton Bay... | Answered on Mar 30, 2020

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