I am suddenly getting an F40 error code on my dryer. I have vacuumed, unplugged, reset GFI, etc., to no avail. What does this code indicate, and how can I fix it? Do I HAVE to call for service? Thanks for your kind response.
I had this same issue. My dryer would run and heat up but then stop and give me the f40. I measured all thermisters and everything was in range. The tech sheet stated that I needed to buy a new control board and I did. Same problem.
The solution was a loose connection on for p4. I took needle nose pliers and squeezed the connector to make it fit tight on the board and everything is working now.
Bottom line, expensive dryer with cheap connectors.
Thanks.
I have a Kenmore Elite Oasis ST #110.68082701, and bilkearson was right, you take the three screws of the back of the control box and when removed you will see another control box on the right, the P4 plug is on the top left of that box, you will see the P4 number on the circuit card adjacent the plug, mine was white plug with red wires. I gently pulled out the plug and squeezed the plug, and put it back and my dryer is running, the person above just save me $200,00 for a service call. Thanks
Excellent tip. I had the same F40 code. In reality the exhaust blower was not running (take off the vent hose and feel if air is coming out), so I would get the code almost immediately. After reseating the P4 connection as instructed it started working again. I too have the same Kenmore Elite Oasis model #110.68082701 bought earlier this year brand new. Must be a factory defect. Thanks for saving me $$$.
Where is the control panel, on the back? I have model 110.6708, maybe it is different. I'm getting the F40 error so I wanted to try your fix.
Okay, I figured out how to access the control box, unseated P4, tighten the connectors, reseated but still getting the F40 error code. Any ideas? Maybe I do have a bad control board. Thanks!
Thank You works Great now
OH my GOD... I think you may have saved me. Lol I have spent hours troubleshooting this, and it never made sense to me since it has worked intermittently and then flashes f40 occasionally! I am going to try the needle nose plier trick. Thank you!
I even replaced the thermal fuse and thermistor! I didn't think that my interface board was fried, or the control board (I have a single motor model - Oasis st), because it all looked fine.. so yep.. I think you hit the nail on the head. thanks
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F40 is a error that appears between the machine control and the motor control when communication becomes lost. Check the connection between the two. The error codes whould be on the tech sheet beneath your console panel along with how to check for this error. Contact service they should be able to give you more information
Had same problem. checked everything the machines "tech sheet" said to check. after no luck, called Sears and purchased the $190 service agreement. Tech came out, told him everything I had already done, he checked the Thermal Fuse located on top of the blower housing just below the drum, it was blown, replaced it ($39.00 part) and plugged the dryer back in and it worked! Fuse was blown and the Tech Sheet makes no mention of it as a possible problem with the F40 code. save your money, check the Thermal Fuse. Part No. 3390719
After my dryer worked for six months after doing dickbambam's solution below, our dryer started flashing the F40 code yet again. I did check the thermal fuse as Matt suggests above, but it had continuity on my multimeter so it was working properly (btw, the thermal fuse is a $16 part at Sears Parts Central, not $39 -- if you pay $39, you're being ripped off). After a lot of troubleshooting, I found that the control knob was the problem. The symptoms of a malfuntioning control knob is the LED lights aren't lit in their normal positions after power on (for example, the "dryness level" light starts on "high" instead of normal), an on-and-off clicking sound (that's the relay on the main control board) and then the F40 error a few seconds later. I also found that lightly and repeatedly pushing the control knob in and letting it go out after starting the dryer made the relay click even more. And when I constantly and lightly pushed on the control know after starting the dryer, it would continue as normal without flashing the F40 error code. To fix it, I used CRC QD (Quick Dry) Electronic Cleaner ($4.77 in Wal-Mart, in auto section next to brake cleaner). After unplugging the dryer (VERY IMPORTANT), pull the knob handle off the washer, spray the cleaner where the switch meets the face of the control panel and lightly put the knob handle back on and twist it around to clean the contacts inside. Repeat two or three times to make sure the control switch is cleaned.
After my dryer worked for six months after doing dickbambam's solution below, our dryer started flashing the F40 code yet again. I did check the thermal fuse as Matt suggests above, but it had continuity on my multimeter so it was working properly (btw, the thermal fuse is a $16 part at Sears Parts Central, not $39 -- if you pay $39, you're being ripped off). After a lot of troubleshooting, I found that the control knob was the problem. The symptoms of a malfuntioning control knob is the LED lights aren't lit in their normal positions after power on (for example, the "dryness level" light starts on "high" instead of normal), an on-and-off clicking sound (that's the relay on the main control board) and then the F40 error a few seconds later. I also found that lightly and repeatedly pushing the control knob in and letting it go out after starting the dryer made the relay click even more. And when I constantly and lightly pushed on the control know after starting the dryer, it would continue as normal without flashing the F40 error code. To fix it, I used CRC QD (Quick Dry) Electronic Cleaner ($4.77 in Wal-Mart, in auto section next to brake cleaner). After unplugging the dryer (VERY IMPORTANT), pull the knob handle off the washer, spray the cleaner where the switch meets the face of the control panel and lightly put the knob handle back on and twist it around to clean the contacts inside. Repeat two or three times to make sure the control switch is cleaned.
Sorry for the double post above. Anyways, this is the first time I've heard of a dirty control knob causing the F40 code, but given the nature of electronics, I can't say I'm surprised at all. This problem has been maddening and I was on the verge of just getting rid of the dryer and buying a new one, but I'm glad I persisted. Good luck to others who have the mysterious F40 code.
Chad, how do you "pull" the knob off the dryer? I find also that pushing lightly on the knob stops the code. We taped it down to get some clothes dried but I would like to try what you suggest, but our knob does not come off easily and I do not want to do more damage than good by pulling on it Thanks
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I just had and fixed this problem with my Elite Oasis dryer with F40 codes. My model does not have separate machine and motor control boards just the machine control board. I eliminated the thermal fuse as the problem. What I had to do is build up the edge connectors on the machine control board for P4 with solder to give the P4 plug a more secure fit. After doing that no more F40 codes. Before doing that beating the user interface or unplugging the power would work But after I had taken the P4 plug off several times in troubleshooting the fit was even more sloppy and that no longer worked. Be sure not to bridge adjacent connectors with too much solder.
I just had and fixed this problem with my Elite Oasis dryer with F40 codes. My model does not have separate machine and motor control boards just the machine control board. I eliminated the thermal fuse as the problem. What I had to do is build up the edge connectors on the machine control board for P4 with solder to give the P4 plug a more secure fit. After doing that no more F40 codes. Before doing that beating the user interface or unplugging the power would work But after I had taken the P4 plug off several times in troubleshooting the fit was even more sloppy and that no longer worked
I just had and fixed this problem with my Elite Oasis dryer with F40 codes. My model does not have separate machine and motor control boards just the machine control board. I eliminated the thermal fuse as the problem. What I had to do is build up the edge connectors on the machine control board for P4 with solder to give the P4 plug a more secure fit. After doing that no more F40 codes. Before doing that beating the user interface or unplugging the power would work But after I had taken the P4 plug off several times in troubleshooting the fit was even more sloppy and that no longer worked. Be sure not to bridge adjacent edge connectors with too much solder.
I just had and fixed this problem with my Elite Oasis dryer with F40 codes. My model does not have separate machine and motor control boards just the machine control board. I eliminated the thermal fuse as the problem. What I had to do is build up the edge connectors on the machine control board for P4 with solder to give the P4 plug a more secure fit. After doing that no more F40 codes. Before doing that beating the user interface or unplugging the power would work But after I had taken the P4 plug off several times in troubleshooting the fit was even more sloppy and that no longer worked. Be sure not to bridge adjacent edge connectors with too much solder.
As ridiculous as I thought dickbambam\'s solution was, the solder build-up on the P4 board pins worked for me, too. My best guess is that the vibration of the dryer causes the connection to vibrate and wear down the pins on the board and loosen the P4 wire connector pins, too. If you can\'t build up the solder on the board or don\'t know anyone who can for you, the only other fix would be to buy a new board and the P4 wire and install both of them, even though the old board is still technically OK except for the finnicky P4 connection. We\'ve had the dryer for nearly 7 years before we saw this problem, btw. While it\'s a pain in the butt, I\'d also recommend taking the drum out and vacuuming out the inside of the dryer--we had a ton of lint in there even though we religiously clean the lint filter before every load. The lint is definitely a fire hazard since it\'s in the vicinity of the heater element. In fact, our had some burnt lint/hair on top of the heater element. Kinda scary when you think about that...
No the real problem is cheap connectors. Looking at thje connector it seemed to me it didn't lend itself to being crimped to creat a tighter fit. That is why I made the edge connectors on the control board thicker using solder which in essence is the same as crimping the connector.
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What I found was a fuse in the control panel it was a 4amp it was blown its connected to the thermistor the black wire that goes to the thermo fuse it connected to the motor control board
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_ab1e1addeab97f5c
Before you waste a penny. over the years i usually get an F1 code, this time i got an F40. what happens is the vibration from the dryer loosens the connectors on the pane.l twice I've had repairman here under a home warranty plan usually when the washer acts up because it doesn't cost extra to have them check both. twice they changed the control box which probably costs the warranty company a lot of money. unplug the dryer. loosen the three screws in the back that hold the control panel cover on the top of the machine. pull forward and take it off and lay it on the machine, the wires are long enough. pull off and reset the connectors pushing them in tightly, particularly the ones on the left control module. the right one is probably fine, its usually the left one. plug the machine back in and test. if that don't work try the right panel plugs. now, these are the modules on the top of the machine, i have never touched anything in the cover you take off. it will probably be fine until they get loose again. maybe one month, maybe six months maybe never. i'm not a repairman, just a Do it yourselfer
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I went to start my Kenmore Elite Oasis gas dryer this morning and I
got the f40 code on the display. I called Sears to have it fixed and
they can't be out here for 12 days! I have four children and TONS of
laundry daily. Can anyone help?
I also am getting the F40 code. I used the dryer and then when I put in a second load to dry, I got the F40 code. I called service, and they had me unplug the dryer for 30 seconds and then hit the power button, push cancel 2 times, and then select cycle and then hold start button, and she said it should start, but it did not. They are only in our area 2 days a week and can't come for 5 days, and I have a family of six, and fall behind if i miss one day of laundry. This is ridiculas!!
I was also getting the F40 code. Didn't have anything to loose, so I tried the above button pushing and it worked for me.
dryer runs, for short amount of time, does not light, then shuts off and error code f40 is displayed
This has been quite a struggle for me. I have chased this around for afew days now. I placed solder on the board to tighten connectors, and also checked fuses and even replaced the 12 volt relay on the board as it had toasted through the other side and suspected poor contacts. All seemed to have some effect but problem kept comeing back. Recently I watched some youtube videos on takeing dryers apart to find the other end of the wires. THere is a P/N 8557403. It is a high limit themostat. I placed it on a frying pan to check with my ohm meter and found that it did not always open around 150 degrees F. It also has a thermistor on it and I feel that it's limit would exceeed the limits and fault the F40 as it has two red wires that go to the P4 board plug also. I belive that it was not opening and out of rangeing the thermistor to cause the P40 fault. I have ordered a part hope it will fix it.
Hi just curious if this solved the F40 code
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