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Posted on Feb 05, 2009
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PTS25LBM GE Profile Defrost cycle messed up

The freezer seems to be in perpetual defrost mode. Disconnecting power resets system and it cools to the proper temperature (0 degrees). However, the next day, it appears to go into defrost mode frequently and for too long as the temperature will rise to 30 degrees and back down to 10 degrees several times over the next several days. I never see 0 degree again unless I unplug the power and plug it back in. I've cleaned the coils with a coil brush and vacuum, but that didn't help. So is my issue the defrost timer, heater, or limiter? Or something else? Thanks in advance.

  • jm_coates Feb 06, 2009

    Thanks, i took the inside of the freezer out and saw that the top 5 inches of the coil was frozen and the inside temperature was about 15 degrees. Not sure if the defrost is working like I thought. Maybe it's not even going into defrost mode. I thawed it out and started it back up. This morning, the temp was 8 degrees and the fan and comp were not running. After opening the door, the compressor kicked in and the fan too. Thus I'm thinking maybe the defrost mode isn't working at all. I looked into the circuit board in the back and it's about $110 online. Hate to replace it if it's something else. How can I test to see if the defrost is coming on?



    Thanks!

  • jm_coates Feb 08, 2009

    Yeah, I looked for blown capacitors and burned marks on the top, but there were a lot of wires. There is an open plug on the board that looks like it could be hooked up to test equipment, unfortunately I do not have anything that fits that plug. what I've noticed is that the compressor does seem to come on and the fan starts blowing after the doors have been open - th etemperature rises and the thermostat kicks in. I do not know if it ever goes into defrost though. Lowering the temperature setting for the freezer does not get it down to zero. it still seems to hover between 10 and 20 degrees. Is that because the coils are freezing up, or a freon problem, or thermostat problem?

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John Tripp

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  • GE Master 4,656 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 06, 2009
John Tripp
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The GE Profile Refrigerator has circuit boards and sensors are in the freezer that sends a signal to the circuit board to begin and end the defrost cycle. It is very possible the sensor or the circuit board are defective and will need replaced. I will help you solve this if you like. This refrigerator is complex and will take more discussion with you to complete the repair, I am here to help, let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze

  • 3 more comments 
  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Feb 06, 2009

    The control board is were the defrost cycle for the Profile is done. Everything is determined within the control board for time of defrost and time to freeze.Checking the board would require test equipment for that board. Replacing the circuit board is the best option if this refrigerator is not too old. A service technician would switch the board and wait for the results. I really wish there was a simple way to test the board.Sometimes you can remove the board and see burn marks on the back of the board. I would unplug the power and remember the connections before attempting to do this. I hope this helps you get the refrigerator going. Thanks, Sea Breeze

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Feb 08, 2009

    OK, I am sending you 2 links. One is here at fixya and second is a link to the refrigerator service manual. Look over the first link to compare notes and let me know if these are the same symptoms. If compressor is not coming on then your circuit board may be bad also. Let me know when you look them over and what your next step you want to have answered. Also if the fan and compressor beneath the refrigerator do not always come on that leads me to circuit board again. If compressor ran all the time that tell me in this case the refrigerator is low on freon Yet the capacitor still will need to be checked. If fan runs OK beneath the refrigerator then I would look at start relay sometime inside the compressor where the wires attach or outside combined with the start capacitor. If relay on the circuit board is bad and getting hot after a few minutes it tends to cause the compressor to stop and start. That would cause poor freezing and cooling.



    http://www.fixya.com/support/t230703-ge_...





    http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/xmb_g...



    Let me know what you find, Thanks Sea Breeze

  • Chris Greene Oct 18, 2012

    Say, I was looking at this for help with my problem and the service manual link is not longer available without a subscription. Do you know of another link for the service manual?

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 18, 2012

    You can find the Artica/Profile Service Manual by clicking this link=> http://appliancepartsseabreeze.com/appli... John Tripp http://appliance911seabreeze.com/ and here=> http://appliance911seabreeze.com/ge_arti... by clicking on the wiring diagram.

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 18, 2012

    Try that again http://appliancepartsseabreeze.com/appli...

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FREEZER WORKING FRIDGE NOT COOLING

Its defrost problem, the freezer should cool, then freeze, then defrost cycle should start. In your case freezer is cooling, then freezing, but its not defrosting. That's why fridge section is not cooling.-------

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http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/refrigerator-is-not-cooling-properly.html

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I have GE profile bottom freezer ser# VG300188V. The thing freezes up about every 2 weeks, I have had a tec here 3 times, he thaws it out but he appears to be beat as how to fix it. rezes up so bad that...

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
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My GE profile side by side frig goes into defrost mode more often, every 1-2 days. Temps go up to 46 degrees for frig and 8 degrees for freezer. It doesn't take too long before it cools back down. Is...

. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
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The defrost timer/control board whichever you have is sticking in the defrost mode....replace it...
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once ice forms on the freezer coils there is no air flow. I had the same thing. I suspect your defrost cycle is compromised. Could be the bimetal switch, defrost timer or defrost heater element.
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GE Profile Refrigerator defrost cycle last hours

it;s probably not going through the defrost cycle or its getting stuck in defrost .. on the back of frig the is a metal cover plate . in side you will find the main board . replace it . it runs the compressor and defrost and controls tempt . this is a very common problem . the new boards are better . and they cost a litle more . mm hope this helped / feed back pls .
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Freezer is not keeping cold and forming icicles along wall

It may just be a defrost timer. Search online for information. There is plenty to be had. Check with the website of GE for a parts breakdown or your manual if you still have it for the location of the defrost timer. You can turn it manually so it goes into defrost. Does the unit seem to be running all the time and never shuts off? If so that timer could be stuck in the cool mode and the evaporator is freezing up solid so air wont flow over it to properly cool. I've had two refrigerators I've had to repair that had defrost timer problems. One stuck in the defrost cycle and wouldn't turn on to cool, the other did what you are describing. It stuck in the cool cycle and wouldn't defrost you may need to manually bypass the cooling cycle several times to allow it to completely defrost. Usually it cycles in cool from 6,8 or ten hours and only stays in defrost for over twenty minutes. That should defrost it and allow it to start cooling again. If you notice that frost has disappeared inside on the wall replace the timer.
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GE Profile PFSF5 NJWA BB

There is a timer that determines the defrost of the cooling coil inside the back wall of the freezer. defrost timer may be located in the area of the controls for temperature. Look for a hole in that area and recessed in that hole you may find a clutch head screw. Turn this screw clockwise very SLOWLY until you hear one click. The freezer coil will be in the defrost mode for 18-22 minutes and then the refrigerator should return to the cooling mode. Make sure the condenser is clean and free of dust and dirt. Condenser is where the heat is removed from the refrigeration system and on most models it is located in back behind a removable panel. Reinstall the panel after cleaning the condenser.
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