Question about Refrigerators

2 Answers

Ge Refrigerator stopped working

Model:PTS25LBMARWW, #:DD319712, Year2002
Compressor does not start
Lights are on, evaporator fan runs, mother board does not look "burned", I can change the cold setting numbers ok.
Can you tell me what I should jumper to check the compressor operation and what is wrong?
When I discovered my problem, the cold numbers were both on 2. But it always operated on 4 and 5.
A week ago the evaporator fan was "racing" and I repositioned some of the frozen food.
Thanx for your help
Deet

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  • 10 more comments 
  • deet Oct 25, 2007

    Hi Sea Breeze

    I checked the pins on the compressor

    two bottom pins:11.3ohm

    Bot. right + top:4.0ohms

    Bot left + top:7.8ohms

    And there is overload reading to the case from all of them.

    Where is the thermostat in the refer?

    Do I remove the long, plastic cover in front of the light bulbs?

    I have the relay, capacitor and that overload thing in my hand... but I don't know anybody that knows how to check them out. I have a Fluke87 meter...

    Thanx for you help

    Deet

  • deet Oct 25, 2007

    Yo Sea Breeze

    That panel was not it(!!)

    I took out the screws and down come the light bulbs, switch, a PCboard with a pizeo beeper on it, the coolnes numbers, a ribbon cable to the touch switches etc. No Thermostat(!!).

    I think I will wait for your reply, before I disassemble more stuff(!!)

    Thanx again for your help

    Deet

  • deet Oct 26, 2007


    front of board

  • deet Oct 26, 2007




    Back of board



    Hi Sea Breeze

    Yes.. It is the right fridge.

    This control board has a plug with 3 wires on it (red/black, white/black, blue/yellow). Which two wires do I jumper to temporarily start the compressor? And then I will buy a new board.

    Is that correct?

    Hey... Thanx again for helping me

    Deet

  • deet Oct 28, 2007


    Hi Sea Breeze

    Mine is the "freezer on top" type.

    But the board is the same and I have the 120VAC.

    Now... How do I "direct test" the compressor?

    It doesn't say how to do it.

    Thanx

    Deet

  • deet Oct 29, 2007

    Hi Sea Breeze

    I did test the compressor with my ohm-meter. See second posting of Oct. 25 for the numbers. And there is "overload" to ground (good!).

    I live in Walnut Creek, California and realize that this fridge is complicated. But I think we can get there. My local guy wants $79 for that control board. But I think I can find it on line, if it is the problem..

    I did not run the diagnostics... I wanted to print out the manual first, to get the procedure right. Then I saw this test, which might put me back looking at the relay and the capacitor. I really don't want to buy that board, just to find that it was good!!

    The condenser fan runs and the compressor is cold (no power).

    And I'm not certain of the LEDs on 2 anymore...

    Any more suggestions?

    I also have to leave for a while. But then I will contact you.

    Thank You

    Deet

  • deet Oct 30, 2007

    Hi Sea Breeze

    There is no voltage in between orange in front of the relay and black on the overload thing, when the condenser fan is running.

    And there is no voltage between black on the overload thing and the orange in front of the capacitor.

    I hope this is clear. When I say "in front of", I mean the fridge side... not the compressor side!!

    I know about capacitors... There was no charge in it, when I removed it and touched both sides together with a screwdriver... It is only 12MFD

    My meter does not handle MFD

    The local guy wants to sell me a kit, replacing the relay, capacitor and overload thing for $45.

    He said that he never measures that. He "removes and replaces", until it works.

    Oh... I did check for the 120VAC as described on page 47. There was 120VAC on those two points on the motherboard.

    Thanx

    Deet

  • deet Oct 31, 2007

    Hi Sea Breeze

    OK... The blue connectors legs are labeled J8 Comp (blk), J9 Defr (blue), J11 Line (brn) from right to left.

    The white connector has a J7 by it and the orange wire is connected to a leg with an "N" by it.

    I have 120VAC between orange N and J11 Line brn.

    I have no voltage between J8 Comp blk and orange N

    And I pulled the schematic out from under the fridge. It matches the PDF from you.



    Deet



  • deet Nov 01, 2007

    Hi Sea Breeze

    There is no voltage in between J7 9 N and J8 Comp. They are the ones.. right?

    But I can hear and feel the Comp K4 relay on the board pull in (on page 38)

    I did the "1-3" pre-chill diagnostic and the compressor didn't start..

    Any other diagnostic I should run?

    It's not easy to hit all 4 buttons on 5, to get it into the right mode...

  • deet Nov 01, 2007

    Hi Sea Breeze

    We are there!! I took the motherboard loose from the fridge and found this burnt solder joint on the back of that  Comp relay.

    If I buy another board, will this happen?

    Could I try to clean up the solder joint and re-solder it? What's to loose?

    Congratulations

    Deet



  • Anonymous Jan 20, 2009

    My board is burnt in the same spot. Is it fixable or did you replace the the board? And did you fix the problem?

    Thanks for any help!

  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    pluged in to 120volt power but I have no lights burning inside when door id opened or no fan or compressor operating either

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 4,655 Answers

Deet, Unplug the refrigerator and the 3 pins on the compressor. Remember where the three compressor wires  go when you put them back on. Test all three pins 2 at a time with an ohm meter. You should get readings all the way around. Then test 1 pin at a time touching the other probe to the copper on the outside the compressor. Tell me what you come up with, Thanks, JT















Posted on Oct 24, 2007

  • 15 more comments 
  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 25, 2007

    The thermostat is in the fridge unplug the 2 wires in back of it after everything listed before you answer if compress is ok you can jump the 2 wires connected to the back of the T-stat If compressor runs and fridge cools then replace t-stat

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 25, 2007

    OK Deet That, is a temperature control board and listed as a

    GE part and part # WR5510172 it's not like most T-stats in most common fridge units. I called a local  store here and they list the part for $66.53. Your compressor diagnostics sound fine and replacing the board may be you next move. That board tells the compressor to cycle on and off and if you feel no heat on the top of the compressor, it has not at least tried to cycle, which leads me to think that the control board is something that I would want to check. Only thing is when you buy it you will not be able to return it. There is no way that I know to jump a control board safely.They are sensitive to touch and electrical power while plugging in or out. Electrical parts are normally not returnable so make sure this step you take carefully. Sea Breeze

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 25, 2007
  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 26, 2007

    Deet, Here's a PDF copy of the service manual withe the information you need. I am concerned that if I tell you were to attach wiring, something may go wrong and you will feel a lot like, well you know. you will need adobe to downlod this, so make sure you are ready.

      http://appliancehelp.hypermart.net/xmb_g...

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 26, 2007
  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 28, 2007

    Deet, Are you located in the USA if so I can call you and try to help you get it running. Ring my cell # 864-812-1887 or e-mail me at  seabreezehvac@yahoo.com and give me a number to contact you.

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 28, 2007

    When you noticed your evap fan racing did the lights dim inside the refrigerator? Does the compressor feel warm to touch? When checking the compressor with the 3 wires removed did you put one probe to each pin and the other to a grounded part of the refrigerator? When doing that it will tell you if compressor is burned out.

    Another question is does the condenser fan run when the compressor will not? Let me know, JT

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 28, 2007

    I have been trying to help you with all the diagnostics, you must realize by now that this model refrigerator is complex in that the circuit boards and temp control boards make it more complex with the diagnostics. The fact that you mentioned in the beginning the thermistat/temperature LED was changered to setting #2 and the fridge had run always on  #5. Did the LED change on it's own? Have you run the self diagnostics test listed procedures in the repair manual? I will be here for a while and will have to go out of town for 24 hours, so the next few hours the answers to theses list of recent questions are important to me being able to assist you, Thanks Sea Breeze    

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 29, 2007

    The fact you say the condenser fan is is running helps. Now check the capacitor and start relay. As for direct starting the compressor I cannot see the wiring print clearly and I think its safer to try this first. If you try to start the compressor from jumping things on the board would be a big mistake because I believe the temp board tells the mother board to turn on a relay that also turns on the same power circuit that the condenser fan is now running on in line with the compressor. Same 120 volts as the fan. Now saying that, I think your problem is in the start capacitor or the start relay. Now, if you know or have the features on your multi-meter to check the capacitor, I would now, or find someone at a local refrigeration supplier there that can check it for you. It must show + or-- plus or minus 10% of the existing capacitors MFD's to be ok. The start relay I just usually switch them out if they don't work. You can purchase the all in one start capacitor and start relay for about $10.00 here at the same stores. Try these first, Sea Breeze 

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 29, 2007

    By the way that direct test is done directly to the compresser not shown anywhere on the PDF service manual. I will try to make a drawing myself if it comes to that, will need you to e-mail me for a drawing so I have an e-mail address to send it to. But if you want to see if there is power there check when the condenser fan is running the top C=common and the R=run pins with the meter. don't touch the probe to the the capacitor wire unless you check it behind the capacitor on the orange wire.If you touch the white it may blow the meter. On the last page of the PDF shows the compressor and a three wire plug to the cabinet. You should get 120 volts on the orange two of the three as one is touched to the black  ( see the picture) Don't forget to make sure the capacitor is out of the circuit! Sea Breeze

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 30, 2007

    OK let me study the print awhile, JT

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 30, 2007

    Is it possible to unplug the wiring from the cabinet at the compresser and check the three wires?

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 30, 2007

    Deet,  On the board can you find J7-9 orange wire to TAB 1 / J11 black wire? Maybe J7 through 9 to tab 1 / J11 black wire? JT

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 30, 2007

    OK on those two points on the mother board can you see a place that maybe there is a break or something between there and the compressor assembly. My print is not as clear as you looking at the mother board and listing those wires beginning right top and move down all ten wires. Give me those numbers if you can. The print is blurry. JT 

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 30, 2007

    Temporarily run two healthy wires from the black to black at the compressor harness and Orange to the two orange wires in the harness if the two points are checking out ok. Unplug first!.......JT

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Oct 31, 2007

    OK pull up the PDF page 38 and look at input and outputs from those. I think the orange is the neutral, the two going down to compressor and capacitor then compressor. Brown and orange are the fan circuit. we know that is ok. The two that are important are the outputs orange and black. If nothing, the PDF says the motherboard needs replaced. Providing the diagnostics  before where ok, and you haven't switched anything off. Tell me what you find, Sea Breeze

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Nov 01, 2007

    Man I'm glad we are at least on to the problem. That relay is probably the most worked area on the board. It stops and starts maybe 10 to 15 times or more every day. The heat from the amp surge starting the compressor may just overwhelm the contacts inside until the heat reaches the solder on the board . I cant say for sure that soldering again will do it or if new contacts inside (new relay) would solve it. Replacing the relay may be a lot cheaper. I know I would hate spending $100.00 every 5 years.to keep my fridge going, Good luck and thanks,Sea Breeze  

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My ge refrigerator just stop working it is not making any sound or is getting cool

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