Are you using a very thin fabric? If so perhaps you need more pressure, try turning up the pressure wheel a notch. Normal setting is 4 so perhaps up to 5 or 6. But remember to turn it back down when finished.
Go line and type it in or go to eBay and type in the piece you need. They come in different shank sizes but are very reasonably priced so you could get a couple until one that fits your machine. You can always gift the ones you don't need. :-)
The Husqvarna Designer Ruby can read a number of embroidery file formats: .SHV, .DHV, .HUS, .VIP, .VP3, .PEC, .PCS, .SEW, .JEF, .EXP, .10*, and .DST. One other embroidery file format is accepted. See the manual. It can read the .SH7 stitch format files and .VF3 embroidery font files. It can also read .HTM/ .HTML and .TXT files. With the complimentary 5D software (or a similar package), you can convert most other embroidery files to one that is compatible with the Designer Ruby.
The documentation for many Husqvarna Viking sewing machines is available here: http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/Support . The manual and other useful information for the Designer Ruby is here: http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/support/DESIGNER-RUBY . The current link to the manual is http://www.husqvarnaviking.com/SiteMedia/Products/Machines/Support/Designer_Ruby_manual_ENG_A.pdf?ext=.pdf . The file extensions are listed on page 9:2 (page 100 of the PDF).
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells
(I will admit to mostly using the .HUS files with the Designer Ruby.)
Hi Claire-
This question has been answered within Fixya already. Here's what I found.
Over time, and especially when not used, there is a likelihood of dust and old oil forming a sort of glue, or clag....
Remove the needle for safety, then, when you have the setting on Zig zag, gently push the needle arm to the opposite side of the zig stitch.......release the needle arm, and if it springs back quickly, it is fine, if it moves slowly, or almost not at all, then the clag needs removing with application of few drops of methylated spirit to start, at the sort of piston affair that shifts needle arm L & R .....move the needle arm back & forth until it frees up, a drop of oil to finish.........if almost seized, may require leaving overnight after using a penetrating lubricant if it is really resistant....I have had them on the bench for 3 days with manual manipulation a few times each day before they finally come good.
Denatured alcohol is fine, surgical spirit too, different countries have different names or products, essentially alcohol with few impurities that will evaporate quickly with little residue.
Hope this does work for you, tho' as I said, it may take a little time to penetrate depending on severity........the same applies to the reverse mechanism of many machines when they seize.
If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au
I also found this youtube video regarding Husqvarna 2000 needle adjustment. The audio goes in and out-but is also has typed instructions on the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsCIOM7Bn8U
Hope this helps.
PS: If you put your question in the "Search problems & products" area at the top of the website, it sometimes gives you answers to your question that other people have also had.
If you are unable to pull the full bobbin off of the bobbin winder, take the thread of off the bobbin and it should come off easily.
If the thread has too much tension during winding or if wound at full speed, it can cause the bobbin to be compressed on the spindle and it won't come off. I recommend throwing away the bobbin just in case it was deformed in the process.
Wind at 1/2 to 3/4 speed in the future and make sure that it is threaded properly for bobbin winding.
depends on where you live and who would want to buy.
New sewing machines can be bought at Walmart for $99 - $200 with a lot of stitches and extras. :-)
