Freezer does not freezer does not work on an age fridge freezer

SOURCE: AEG fridge/freezer isn't working

This sounds like your fridge has a leak somewhere and it slowly discharged its refrigerant. the compressor can sustain damage when there is no refrigerant and often will hum and eventually fail. Sorry but you may need a new compressor - if you were going to replace the fridge soon anyway then i would go ahead, but a compressor and the labour to fit it etc may be cheaper than a new fridge - you need a refrigeration repair man/shop (if you can take the fridge to a repair shop it will always be cheaper than calling a guy to your house) Sorry i can't really help, but the symptoms are classic, if you are lucky then a technician may be able to fix the leak and restart the compressor, but not always if you want to try something yourself just try tapping the compressor smartly but not too hard with the end of a dry wooden or plastic stick or similar with the fridge plugged in. the compressor is the thing at the bottom in the back that looks a bit like a small fuel tank, should be right in the middle and will be the largest thing in there. Just be careful not to break any copper tubes or touch any wires. Sometimes a stuck compressor can be freed this way, but you will almost certainly still need the leak fixing and a refill of refrigerant. Sorry about the bad news :( Hope this helps :)

Terence Fourie

• 909 Answers
• Posted on Sep 20, 2007

SOURCE: AEG Santo 3778-8 KA Temperature Problem

hi tracy, think its possibly better getting a repair guy in as this fault is not streight forward. possibly a fault in the defrost circuit, or freezer fan not functioning, or possibly a leak in the system. all theese areas need testing equiptment.

SOURCE: ice develops at back of fridge

hi chris
dave here hope i can help

I would test the defrost timer, defrost heater or defrost limit switch

TESTING AND REPLACING THE DEFROST TIMER
This timer activates the heater that melts frost in the evaporator for 10 to 20 minutes every 10 to 12 hours. In the process, it turns the compressor off and on. If it fails, the compressor may not run. Or the heater may not go on, eventually causing a hidden ice buildup that blocks the cold-air flow and disables the evaporator fan. An access hole lets you test the timer. If the timer isn't in the control panel, look behind the front grille or behind the rear access panel. If the compressor fails to run turn the timer until it clicks. If compressor goes on, timer is faulty. If unit isn't defrosting automatically and turning timer stops compressor or fan, timer is faulty.
Before replacing timer, spray it with electrical contact cleaner through access hole and turn it a few times. Stop just before a click and wait to see if timer advances on its own.
To replace timer, unplug the refrigerator and open control panel. Remove screws holding timer to panel and pull of leads. If wires aren't in a plug, move then one at a time to new timer.

EVAPORATOR AND DEFROST HEATER
In a frost-free unit, the evaporator coils, their fan, and the deforst heater are located behind the freezer's back wall or under its floor. The fan, which circulates cold air between the coils and the two food compartments, is controlled by the door switch, the thermostat, or both. To check the fan, open both doors, wait for the compressor to go on, and hold in the door switch. If you can't hear the fan running, test the fan(below).
The defrost heater, which melts frost on the coils, is cycled on by the defrost timer(above). If the frost melts before the end of the defrost cycle, the defrost limit switch turns the heater off. The heater may be a metal rod, a wire wrapped in foil, or a coil inside a glass tube. All are tested the same way. Test terminals for the heater are often located in the control panel or under a doorjamb; check the wiring diagram. Or test the heater leads inside the evaporator compartment.

TESTING THE EVAPORATOR FAN
To remove the evaporator fan, unplug unit; open back panel(or floor) of freezer. Then unscrew housing holding fan, and take off leads going to fan motor. With VOM(Volt-Ohm Meter) on RX1, probe motor terminals(except green ground wire terminal). Look for moderate resistance(50 to 200 ohms). Replace fan if much lower or infinity.

TESTING THE DEFROST HEATER
Open control panel. With VOM on RX1, probe test terminals. Look for 15-to 100-ohm reading. If infinity, turn defrost timer(as above); retest.

TESTING DEFROST LIMIT SWITCH
Trace and disconnect leads. With VOM on RX1, probe leads. Look for infinity reading when switch is warm, zero after 20 minutes in working freezer.

Hope this sources your problem
Thank you for using Fixya.com

Gordon Meredith

• 35 Answers
• Posted on Mar 16, 2009

SOURCE: AEG Santo fridge not cooling but freezer is working.

The compressor is obviously still good or the freezer wouldn't work.I'm sure you checked the settings,but turn the freezer all the way up (hot)after it is cool so the unit doesn't come on for the freezer,then turn the refrigerator controls all the way down to the coolest setting.listen for the compressor to start,and/or the fans to run.If the compressor starts,and no fan there may be a problem with the fan.(this is a general test I'm not familiar with your specific unit which may not have a fan,but most newer units do).If the compressor doesn't start after a short time the thermostat/control for the refrigerator section is broken,and needs replaced.

SOURCE: fridge freezer not keeping temp

Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101