Thank everyone for your help. I managed to access the on-off sw & it's ok. The large size of the AC cord reads continuity, but the small side does not. Does that mean there's an open perhaps in that line to the motor? iF SO HOW CAN I OBTAIN A SERVICE MANUAL?

First locate screw pack (you will need a Phillips screwdriver). 2 long Phillips screws with hex nuts, 2 short Phillips screws. Should be taped to under part of handle.

2, Put upper handle into lower handle.

3, feed the power cord through the tool caddy from the flat side. Place caddy to handle so the hex shaped holes on upper portion.

4. Place the hex nut in the hex shaped hole and insert long bolt through the front of the handle. Do the same on the other screw and tighten them snuggly. Be careful not to over tighten them.

5. Insert small screws into lower 2 holes through the back side of the lower hose rack. Turn until tightened.

6. Attach tool(s) (that would be a small brush or the pet brush attachment to end of hose and on the attachment holder on front of upper handle.

7. Wrap hose around large holder closest to handle and power cord is wrapped around outer holder with rotating clamp.

Hope that helped

Greetings from GoVacuum.com,

I'll tell you that 9 times out of 10, when a Kirby Generation doesn't turn on, it's the cord that needs to be replaced. This is by far the most common problem that we see on Kirby repairs.
The Kirby motor is very well built, and usually has a life of 30+ years (G3 is about 12-15 years now). The only other problem it could be on the Kirby would be carbon brushes, or the switch assembly.

I would first try testing the power cord, I think this will solve the problem for you. To test a cord on a Kirby Generation (all Generation models are the same machines, just different colors) first follow where the cord goes into the Kirby at the bottom. To access this cover easier, first remove the "boot" at the bottom of the outer bag. This is the plastic part at the bottom of the outer bag that connects onto the Kirby. You will see that there is a plastic cover over the cord. You will need to remove the screw that holds this cover on.



Now after you have removed the cover, pull the plug out of the machine. Once you have the cord disconnected from the machine, you can now test it to see if there is a short somewhere in the cord. You will need to purchase an inexpensive continuity tester from Home Depot, Radio Shack or most other electronic stores. This will tell you if there is power running through the cord, or if the cord is bad. With the continuity tester, plug the cord into the wall outlet, then put the positive, and negative testing rods into the female end of the cord that plugs into the machine. You will then be able to tell if the cord has continuity going through it. The tester will indicate if there's continuity or not.


The picture here shows that the cord is good. If your tester does not light up, or indicate that there is continuity, you'll simply just need to purchase a new cord. As I stated earlier, this is the most common reason that a Kirby won't turn on.

If however your cord tests OK, this indicates that the machine either needs a new motor (or carbon brushes in the motor) or it needs a new switch.



Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

Hello,

In order to access the cord on the Miele S183 upright, you'll need to first remove the handle from the vacuum cleaner. There is a large screw that holds the handle in place that is located under neath of the lower cord wrap hook. Simply remove this screw, and slide the off the vacuum by pushing the handle towards the back of the machine.

Once you have the handle removed, now ope the bag door as if you were going to replace the vacuum bag. You'll see two screws directly above where the bag fits inside of the machine. These two screws will open up the switch and cord housing and give you access to the electrical cord.

You'll see that there are two screws that secure the cord as it comes into the vacuum from the back. Remove both of these screws so that the cord is no longer secured. I think the easiest way to replace this cord is to simply cut the cord (MAKE SURE THE VACUUM IS UNPLUGGED) so that there is about 4-5 inches of the cord jacket (rubber coating around the cord) remaining. You may now just pull this cord jacket off of the cord, along with the paper insulation so you have two bare wires of the old cord. Now take your new cord and push it into the back of the vacuum so that it comes through the switch housing. Instead of having to re-secure the cord with the two screws, I've found that if you tie a small knot in the cord, this works just as well at preventing the cord from pulling through the back of the vacuum.

Simply strip the wires that are left from the old cord, and simply wire nut the new cord after tying a knot (or re-securing it with the two screws), and reassemble the vacuum cleaner. Test the vacuum only after putting the switch housing cover back into place.

If you have any questions about how to do this repair, please feel free to use the clarification request form here on the Fixya repair page. If you found this helpful, please be so kind as to rate my repair as helpful by clicking on the 4 thumbs up icons in the top right hand corner of the repair. This is what keep Fixya's repair professionals continue leaving free repair advice on this site.

Here's a link to a blown up parts diagram to help you visualize how the vacuum comes apart.
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/vacuumcleanerbacgs/miele-s183-upright-parts-diagram.gif

Feel free to check out our website for any Miele supplies that you need:
Miele Vacuum Bags, Filters & Belts

Thanks again for rating my repair,

Chris J.
GoVacuum

Greetings from GoVacuum,

Unfortunately there is no fuse on a Kirby Generation model. In my 10 years of repairing Kirby's as well as other vacuums I will tell you that 9 times out of 10, when a Kirby Generation doesn't turn on, it's the cord that needs to be replaced. This is by far the most common problem that we see on Kirby repairs.
The Kirby motor is very well built, and usually has a life of 30+ years (G3 is about 12-15 years now). The only other problem it could be on the Kirby would be carbon brushes, or the switch assembly.

I would first try testing the power cord, I think this will solve the problem for you. To test a cord on a Kirby Generation (all Generation models are the same machines, just different colors) first follow where the cord goes into the Kirby at the bottom. To access this cover easier, first remove the "boot" at the bottom of the outer bag. This is the plastic part at the bottom of the outer bag that connects onto the Kirby. You will see that there is a plastic cover over the cord. You will need to remove the screw that holds this cover on.



Now after you have removed the cover, pull the plug out of the machine. Once you have the cord disconnected from the machine, you can now test it to see if there is a short somewhere in the cord. You will need to purchase an inexpensive continuity tester from Home Depot, Radio Shack, or most other electronic stores. This will tell you if there is power running through the cord, or if the cord is bad. With the continuity tester, plug the cord into the wall outlet, then put the positive, and negative testing rods into the female end of the cord that plugs into the machine. You will then be able to tell if the cord has continuity going through it. The tester will indicate if there's continuity or not.


The picture here shows that the cord is good. If your tester does not light up, or indicate that there is continuity, you'll simply just need to purchase a new cord. As I stated earlier, this is the most common reason that a Kirby won't turn on.

If however your cord tests OK, this indicates that the machine either needs a new motor (or carbon brushes in the motor) or it needs a new switch.

Please feel free to email me if you'd like instructions on how to diagnosis the switch or carbon brushes, or if you need to purchase a cord for your G3. Also I can send you a parts diagram of the Kirby should you ever need any other part for it. I have all parts for Kirby in stock, and we are the cheapest price online.

If the cord tested ok, then there are a few other things that may have gone bad. I'd be more then happy to try and help you diagnosis the Kirby further. Please just request a repair clarifiaction here on Fixya with further details.

If this helped you figure out the problem, please rate my repair as helpful. I really do appreciate it, thank you.

Chris J.

Apparent common failure is that either the thin yellow and or blue motor drive wires that run from the LH side of the vacuum where the "control board" is located down into the hinge / ball area become stretched and then fray and eventually break. Happened to my Dyson twice. First repaired under warranty, second took about 20 minutes. You need a Torx screwdriver to remove the LH panel ( 4 screws) and also an access panel (2 screws) at the side of the ball which permits access to the blue / yellow wire connectors. I replaced with a new wire and connectors having fed the wires through the access hole making sure sure enough wire was available for the movement of the handle. Also ensure that when the covers are replaced they do not trap any wires underneath.

It could be either the switch, the motor, or the cord reel. Try plugging it in and slowly feeding the cord in and out while clicking the power switch on and off. If the motor kicks on while doing this, you have an intermittent short in the cord reel.

If you remove the bag chamber lid, (on the s300 series merely opening it until it makes an awful cracking sound, and then lifting it off; on the s500 series you'll have to gently pry the tab just inside the hinge away,) you will be able to access the screws to remove the rear housing. Under the exhaust filter are two screws that will allow you to remove the control unit, and then there are about five screws on the top that will need to be removed if you need to go further.

The control unit contains the switch, (in many models, but it depends on your model...) which you can test continuity through by using a VOM. If the switch checks out ok, you can test continuity through the other electrical components on the underside of the control unit. If you find a component that does not have continuity, replace it. If they all appear functional, continue with the disassembly:

On the s300 series it is easiest to flip the machine upside-down after removing the top screws, and then lifting the base away from the top housing. This will give you access to the motor and the cord reel. On the s500 series you will just have to lift the colored plastic body up and away from the base.

What can occasionally happen with these cord reels is that they can wear out, allowing too much lateral slop of the actual reel assembly. You can shim this by using something on the axle in the center to push the reel assembly back against the contacts. I use a small rubber "doughnut," but pretty much anything non-conductive will do the trick.

If this doesn't restore electrical continuity, you'll probably need a new cord reel. I highly recommend against trying to do any further repairs on the cord reel itself, as it's a nightmare to deal with... especially if the main spring comes apart. Miele does not recommend replacement of any component of the cord reel, only the entire cord reel assembly.

Any other problems will have to be referred to a repair station, since it could then be either the motor or the motor control board.

Do NOT attempt to test the motor by directly connecting it to wall voltage, as the actual power applied to the motor when it is functioning is stepped down by the circuits attached to it, and attempting to "hotwire" it will fry the motor.

Hope this helps,

-R

It could be either the switch, the motor, or the cord reel. Try plugging it in and slowly feeding the cord in and out while clicking the power switch on and off. If the motor kicks on while doing this, you have an intermittent short in the cord reel.

If you remove the bag chamber lid, (on the s300 series merely opening it until it makes an awful cracking sound, and then lifting it off;) you will be able to access the screws to remove the rear housing. Under the exhaust filter are two screws that will allow you to remove the control unit, and then there are about five screws on the top that will need to be removed if you need to go further.

The control unit contains the switch, which you can test continuity through by using a VOM. If the switch checks out ok, you can test continuity through the other electrical components on the underside of the control unit. If you find a component that does not have continuity, replace it. If they all appear functional, continue with the disassembly:

On the s300 series it is easiest to flip the machine upside-down after removing the top screws, and then lifting the base away from the top housing. This will give you access to the motor and the cord reel.

What can occasionally happen with these cord reels is that they can wear out, allowing too much lateral slop of the actual reel assembly. You can shim this by using something on the axle in the center to push the reel assembly back against the contacts. I use a small rubber "doughnut," but pretty much anything non-conductive will do the trick.

If this doesn't restore electrical continuity, you'll probably need a new cord reel. I highly recommend against trying to do any further repairs on the cord reel itself, as it's a nightmare to deal with... especially if the main spring comes apart.

Any other problems will have to be referred to a repair station, since it could then be either the motor or the motor control board.

Do NOT attempt to test the motor by directly connecting it to wall voltage, as the actual power applied to the motor when it is functioning is stepped down by the circuits attached to it, and attempting to "hotwire" it will fry the motor.

Hope this helps,

-R

Hello,
First check the cord to make sure you have continunity throw both leads, check them at the cord reel, there are 2 wires hooked up to it, if not then the cord is bad. Check the swith also, the next cause would be the speen control mounted on the motor, part #04416342, sells for around $85. If your motor checks ok, then it most likely the speed control, they go out quite often...Thank you


Regards!!!...

Same thing happened to my Wertheim 4030. It turned out to be a broken connection in the retractable cord plug, no doubt due to continual shock upon retraction. How did I find it? By pulling the top off and first checking the internal switch was working with an ohmmeter (definitely no power for this test) Then plugged in, powered up & checked if any power to switch with AC voltage tester(be careful and have unit RCD protected for your safety) None showing, so checked if power at internal reel. None, so switched off power and checked continuity of cord for active and neutral continuity. None in one so cut off plug and checked again OK so new plug fitted and reassembled. If I had power to the switch originally, the motherboard/rheostat or motor may have been the problem. Hot wiring the motor would have determined which(unlikely to be both but a possibility) Repair or replace faulty item, obviously checking motor brushes first. Electrical is simply a matter of isolation and elimination.
rjjs

That pedal is hard to break, use a large flat blade screw driver, stick it from the bottom and back of the pedal and pry up, it will pop off, watch for the spring, it may fly off.