No drive to the drum (tub).

Washing machines don't usually run silently, but in most cases, a squeaking noise that occurs while the washer is agitating the clothing is not normal and signifies a problem. If the noise only happens when the washing is agitating, the problem is likely connected to the motor or your water pressure. Depending on the specific cause, you may feel comfortable fixing it yourself. Otherwise, call a professional.

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The Agitator

• Agitators are located in the center of the drum, or basket, of top-load washing machines. Front loading washing machines do not use agitators -- instead, gravity moves the clothes from the top of the drum to the bottom. Agitators usually consist of a tall cone fitted with arms at the base. The purpose of the agitator is to rotate the clothes and soapy water around the tub to clean the clothes. The agitator itself is not usually the cause of the squeaking noise. It is powered by the drive mechanism, which consists of a motor, clutch and gears.

Motor Problems

• A repetitive squeaking noise during the agitation cycle may signify a problem with the motor. Specifically, the belt on the motor may be wearing out. Some motors use rubber couplers, which also wear out easily. The belt is necessary for the agitator to turn, but over time, it wears thin, just like the belts in your car's motor. An easy way to test for this problem -- if you're handy -- is to take the belt off the motor and then run it. If the squeaking noise stops, the problem is indeed your belt. Of course, this means your agitator won't move. Replacing the belt should fix the problem.

Water Pressure Issues

• The tub, or drum, fills with water right before the agitator turns on, and water continues to circulate throughout the washing process. As the tub fills and water circulates, you may hear a squeaking or squealing noise if you have high water pressure. This sound is caused by the force of the water moving through the pipes. To adjust this, turn the knobs on the hot and cold valves on the pipes that go into your washing machine.

Considerations

• New washing machines may squeak at first as the parts "warm up," according to the GE Appliances website. The noise should disappear after five complete washing cycles have run on the machine. Unbalanced loads, overly heavy loads and loose items in the drum may also cause noise when the agitator comes on, but these things usually do not produce a squeaking sound.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12131280_washer-squeaks-agitating.html My Washer Squeaks When Agitating eHow

It's very difficult to advise on a noisy washing machine because you can't describe noises accurately enough. People often describe the same noises quite differently.

Generally though, if a washing machine is rumbling, and noisy on spin, the main suspect is the drum bearings. Drum bearing failure is common on washing machines due to water getting into them if the drum bearing seal fails. To check for drum bearing failure you can take the belt off and spin the drum by hand. If the drum rumbles when spun then the bearings have probably gone.

Another drum bearing failure symptom is excessive up and down play in the drum which can be checked for by lifting the drum up and down from the drum lip behind the door seal. A further symptom of drum bearing failure is a brown rust patch underneath the washing machine and down the back of the outer drum, underneath the drum pulley (where the belt goes) There are usually two small holes at the back of the drum bearings where water that has got past the drum bearing seal trickles out, and it's usually stained with grease and rust.

Other causes of a noisy washing machine are coins and other obstructions inside the water pump. This will cause noise when the washing machine is emptying the water. Coins or other obstructions can get trapped between the outer tub and the inner drum. This would produce a lot of noise on spin as they coins get tossed around inside. Usually, spinning the drum by hand will not reproduce the noise in the case of coins as the coins drop to the bottom of the tub when the washing machine isn't spinning.

A light scraping noise when the drum is turned by hand is usually a bra wire trapped between the tub and drum.

A high pitched squealing or harsh noise can be motor bearing wear. This can also be checked for by taking the belt off and running the motor alone.

A knocking noise can be a loose tub weight. This would be worse with heavy loads and would not be present on spin with no washing in. This is because the knocking noise is caused when the tub (or outer drum) shakes about on spin. Without washing inside the drum the tub doesn't move. Another symptom of a loose tub weight is grey concrete dust under the washing machine.

It's very tempting to ignore noises while the washing machine is still otherwise working. Some noises can be ignored as they will not develop into serious faults. Other noises, if left, will cause extensive damage and can end up costing considerably more than if tackled early or these days writing the washing machine off. Of course the problem is that you can't tell which of the categories a noise falls into - so ignore them at your own risk.

6 years old - probably the wash tub bearings gone. Does the wash tub lift up and down from the front? sure sign bearings have gone. Would you drive a car at 70mph if the wheels were loose and floppy?
Not really a viable repair due to cost, and throwing good money after bad sort of situation, especially if your machine has a sealed wash tub which doesn't come apart.(welded Tub).
Cost of parts in this case would equal cost of new machine. Also, suspension, motor and heater will all be worn too. That's about the life span of machines these days I'm afraid!

It's very difficult to advise on a noisy washing machine because you can't describe noises accurately enough. People often describe the same noises quite differently.

Generally though, if a washing machine is rumbling, and noisy on spin, the main suspect is the drum bearings. Drum bearing failure is common on washing machines due to water getting into them if the drum bearing seal fails. To check for drum bearing failure you can take the belt off and spin the drum by hand. If the drum rumbles when spun then the bearings have probably gone.

Another drum bearing failure symptom is excessive up and down play in the drum which can be checked for by lifting the drum up and down from the drum lip behind the door seal. A further symptom of drum bearing failure is a brown rust patch underneath the washing machine and down the back of the outer drum, underneath the drum pulley (where the belt goes) There are usually two small holes at the back of the drum bearings where water that has got past the drum bearing seal trickles out, and it's usually stained with grease and rust.

Other causes of a noisy washing machine are coins and other obstructions inside the water pump. This will cause noise when the washing machine is emptying the water. Coins or other obstructions can get trapped between the outer tub and the inner drum. This would produce a lot of noise on spin as they coins get tossed around inside. Usually, spinning the drum by hand will not reproduce the noise in the case of coins as the coins drop to the bottom of the tub when the washing machine isn't spinning.

A light scraping noise when the drum is turned by hand is usually a bra wire trapped between the tub and drum.

A high pitched squealing or harsh noise can be motor bearing wear. This can also be checked for by taking the belt off and running the motor alone.

A knocking noise can be a loose tub weight. This would be worse with heavy loads and would not be present on spin with no washing in. This is because the knocking noise is caused when the tub (or outer drum) shakes about on spin. Without washing inside the drum the tub doesn't move. Another symptom of a loose tub weight is grey concrete dust under the washing machine.

It's very tempting to ignore noises while the washing machine is still otherwise working. Some noises can be ignored as they will not develop into serious faults. Other noises, if left, will cause extensive damage and can end up costing considerably more than if tackled early or these days writing the washing machine off. Of course the problem is that you can't tell which of the categories a noise falls into - so ignore them at your own risk.

You may have a damaged or broken motor coupling. Whirlpool manufactured top loading washers use a motor coupling between the drive motor and gearcase (transmission) in place of a drive belt. This configuration is known as "direct-drive". The coupling can break through normal wear and tear. Washing frequent loads of heavy items and reduce the life span of the coupler. Common symptoms include the following:

1. No spin or agitation.
2. Washer will fill and empty.
3. Drive motor still runs.
4. Strange rattling, grinding or clicking noise during agitation or spin cycles as the drum sits still.

If your washer is exhibiting these symptoms, then its probably a safe bet that the motor coupling is bad.

The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574231-replacing_a_motor_coupling

The part number for a replacement motor coupling is inlcuded in the link I provided. Replacements can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites I have listed also included helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim under the lid) and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Hi

Older top load washers use a belt to drive to transfer the energy from motor to drum. However, if the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell, most likely a burning “rubber” smell. The belt is located either from the back access panel or from the underside of the washer. The solution is to replace the belt with a new one. To replace the belt you can open the back lid of the washer

To replace the belt carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins, remove 2 Phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel, slightly lift upward on panel to release. Now remove old broken belt, push new belt beneath large tub pulley and put belt on small motor pulley. After this push back belt tension /idler arm, start belt on large tub pulley, turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on, release tension on idler arm. Replace front panel and lower top.

Please check this diagram for the part number F28(drive belt)--




Please post back for any further assistance.

Thanks
Daniel

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. If your washer is a front load washer then check these things if it is making noise--
Bellows
The bellows is a rubber sleeve that seals the suspended outer tub to the stationary cabinet front at the tub opening. Its purpose is to provide a water tight opening into the tub that can be sealed by the cabinet door, yet allow flexibility for the oscillation of the tub during the wash and spin cycles.
Outer Tub Assembly
The outer tub assembly is supported by two suspension springs and stabilized by two air shock assemblies. A cement counter weight is mounted to the front of the outer tub by screws. A counterweight is molded into the rear half of the outer tub. These counterweights prevent excessive oscillation of the entire suspended assembly during an unbalanced spin cycle.
Spin Basket Assembly
The spin basket is constructed of stainless steel. The circumference of the basket is perforated to allow water to flow through it as it revolves. A heavy steel shaft is pressed into the spin basket support which is then bolted to the basket. The spin basket assembly is entirely supported by two ball bearings pressed into the rear of the outer tub. A large drive pulley is mounted to the free end of the shaft that extends through the rear of the outer tub. There are three plastic vanes mounted to the spin basket to aid in the washing action during the wash cycle. The rotation of the spin basket provides both the washing action during the wash cycle, and water extraction during the spin cycle.


High pitch "jet engine" noise--A certain amount of motor whine is normal during the spin cycle.


Rattling and clanking noise--
• Foreign objects such as coins or safety pins may be in drum or pump. Stop washer and check drum. If noise continues after washer is restarted, objects may be in pump.
• Belt buckles and metal fasteners are hitting wash drum. To prevent unnecessary noise and damage to drum, fasten fasteners and turn items inside out.

Squealing sound or hot rubber odor-- Washer is overloaded. Do not overload washer. Stop washer and reduce load.

Thumping sound— Heavy wash loads may produce a thumping sound. This is usually normal. If sound continues, washer is probably out of balance. Stop washer and redistribute wash load.

Vibrating noise--
• Washer is not resting firmly on floor. Move washer so it rests firmly on floor. Adjust leveling legs. NOTE: Some shaking of the washer is normal without moving across the floor. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for details.
• Shipping bolts and foam blocks have not been removed during installation. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for removing shipping bolts and foam blocks.
• Wash load unevenly distributed in drum. Stop washer and rearrange wash load.


Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

You may have a broken inner tub spider. Check for play between the inner drum and the outer tub by moving the inner drum up and down.
If there is excessive play, the spider is broken causing an unbalanced load and therefore no high speed spin can be achieved.

In this case the inner drum would need to be replaced, which means taking the machine almost completely apart. A good tech can do it in about 1.5 hours.

there is a tub seal under the spin tub that proab needs replacing open the front panel then raise the top then grab the agitator and **** up on it hard it should snap out then unsnap the splash ring around the outer tub take the little bolt out of the agitator drive loosen the nut on the spin tub and remove it keep going down till you get to the tub seal replace it then reassemble

It sounds like you have a motor coupling that has gone bad. Most of the Kenmore top loaders that I'm familiar with are direct drive machines. Which means, they use a motor coupling between the electric drive motor and transmission to run. If you are in the habit of doing heavy loads like comforters, blankets and jeans this can put a heavy burden on the motor coupler and wear it out faster. The coupler is designed to take the burden of the punishment in order to protect the transmission and drive motor and it is common for them to wear out. The coupler is fairly easy to replace and usually runs about $15. It is located inside the machine between the drive motor and transmission under the wash tub. You would have to remove the outside machine casing, the water pump and drive motor to get to it, though. Make sure the machine is unplugged before attempting any repairs involving removal of the drive motor. If you are not mechanically inclined, you may want to seek the aid of a repairman. I hope this helps.