I would like to know the electrical requirements.( voltage and amperage) Does it plug in or is it hard wired? If the power goes out is the hot water also out? thankyou

Are you asking what guage of wire or what amperage is the fuse? It should have 12 guage wire and it would need 30 amps.

Any specially sized unit for a mobile home should be fine. Just make sure that the amperage and voltage requirements are the same so you do not have a wiring hassle.

Thermostat is rated 120-208-240-277 volts.
Element will work with any voltage too, no matter rating on label. It will burn at different temperatures at different voltaGES.
Any voltage should run water heater.
Copy following links:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html

Push in reset button.
Make sure tank was full of water before turning power ON. Or element will instantly burn out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#new

Are you testing voltage across top two screws on element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Upper-thermostat-w-wire-a-2.jpg
Or are you testing each leg to ground?
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Inside-Main-Breaker-Box-12.jpg

Gene
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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Yes.
Ordinary electric water heater can run on any voltage from any direction (excluding volt/amp ratings below what can heat element coil).

Voltages include single-phase, split phase, and 3-phase residential/commercial voltages with either 50 or 60 Hz.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-for-120-Volt.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html#3-phase

Install line fuse.
30 amp fuse would be required to prevent wires from overheating, and eliminate fire hazard.

This information does NOT apply to energy-smart electric water heater with box on top of heater, or newer energy smart with electronics, or to hybrid water heaters, or heat pump water heaters with delicate electronic circuitry.

Why it works like this:
Ordinary electric water heater thermostats are mechanical bi-metal switches and respond to tank temperature, and are not operated by electricity.
Ordinary generic elecrtic water heater thermostats switch electricity on-off using mechanical bi-metal switch.
Heat elements are simple coil of thermal wire that gets hot when voltage is applied.
The element will get hot when power is applied.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

what knowledge of electricity do you have? a hot water heater requires a 2 pole feed meaning you need a 3 wire 30 amp rated wire and it has to be on a 2 pole 30 amp breaker. first off do you have that currently installed?

The elements never run at the same time, it would take to much energy for a standard residential heater. Instead, they rotate powering up back and forth depending on the hot water demand. If you getting 208 to 240 volts on the top element and nothing is happening, the top element is bad and needs to be replaced. If you can swing 30 bucks, replace both elements and both thermostats at the same time. This way you know that everything is new. Check out this generic water-heater wiring schematic.

The hot water heater should come with an amperage rating on it.
They vary from 30 to 40 amps, and then 10 or 8 gauge wire.
(All hot water heaters are 220 volt.)
I believe the 602 uses a 4500 watt element.
Divide 4500 by 220, and you get about 20 amps.

If you want to be on the safe side, you go with the heavier wire, 8 gauge, and then go with the smaller breaker that is more easily tripped, 30 amps. That way you can switch to a 40 amp breaker in the future, without having to change the wiring. The goal is to always make sure the wire is rated higher than the breaker. You want you breaker to trip before your wire melts.
But technically a 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wire would be fine for this heater.

And since it is 220 volt, you will always use a double breaker.
That is because 220 volt appliances don't use a ground, but instead use the potential between to power wires that are 180 degrees out of phase. AC always does a sine wave, and the 2 power leads coming into the house are always out of phase. When one is 110 volts up, the other is down. So the total between them is 220 volts. And the way they intentionally zigzag the breaker box, 2 breakers next to each other always are on opposite power lines.

If you have any doubts at all about 220 and water heater wiring, please ask again. Wiring is not hard, but you have to understand what you are doing, or else you can cause serious consequences.
For example, if you use wire nuts or wrap wire around a screw, you need to always turn them clockwise, so they pull the wire when tightened.
You also always need to ground the chassis with a green safety wire.
Since a 220 hot water heater uses 2 power wires and a safety ground, the white wire should be striped with a permanent marker, so that it is not confused with the white neutral wire of a 110 volt appliance.

Your 220v hot water heater does not need the neutral(white) wire coming in. Bare wire goes to ground -green headed screw. Black goes to black, Red goes to red. White gets teminated with a wirenut or some electrical tape.

Hi,
There are couple of possibilities...
If you have a amp meter check the amperage drawn from the unit and make sure it is not higher than the breaker rating.
The next thing I would do is change the breaker. They do wear out and will trip. If you do not have a meter then change the breaker and see if it helps.
If not then you may have a bad element and it is drawning too much electric.
Also low voltage will make the amps go up and trip the breaker. That can be very hard to catch as it could happen at any time.
If you chack amps. and voltage and the breaker is good then have the power company install a recorder to watch for voltage drops. They will often hook one up for a few days free of charge to help find a problem that may be on their end.

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!

Heatman101

LOOK AT THE UNIT WHERE THE GAS GOES INTO THE UNIT IF YOU SEE SOME KIND OF A SPARK PLUG WIRE YES YOU WILL NEED ELECTRIC FOR THE UNIT TO FIRE, MOST OF THE UNITS HAVE WHAT THEY CALL A STANDING PILOT LIGHT WHICH STAYS LIT TO IGNITE THE GAS WHEN NEEDED. LOOK AT THE UNIT FOR INFO FOR VOLTAGE THERE HAS TO BE SOME KIND OF TAG FOR THIS TO COMPLIANT FOR SALE OF THE UNIT