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I own a baby lock BL6200 that suddenly stopped running. I finished a seam replaced fabric to sew new seam and it will not sew. I have been sewing for years and have checked everything. Its like the motor isn't getting the signal to run. nothing is jammed.
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The stitch in the ditch foot is used for stitching directly in the seam line of 2 fabrics, most often for quilting lines. It is also used to sew two fabrics together. For the Stitch in the ditch sewing (quilting) place the needle in the center position, straight stitching and align the protruding blade on the stitch in the ditch presser foot directly on the seam line. Sew straight in the seamline using blade as the guide. To bind 2 fabrics, place the finished edges of the fabrics together, side by side touching. Place the foot with the blade between the two fabrics.Guide the fabric to touch the blade as you sew.
Set the stitching to zig zag stitch. Sew zig zag, keeping the fabrics touching the protruding guide on the presser foot. Hope this helps!
A zig-zag is also a stretch stitch. Usually, a "built-in" stretch stitch will stitch forward a couple and then stitch backward and then stitch forward again (time consuming and uses a lot of thread--but suitable if that's what you want). Whatever you are sewing, whether it is a seam or finished raw edge and the fabric is stretch, you will need to use a stretch or zig-zag. A straight stitch will pop the threads as soon as the fabric has to give.
You can test your stitches on some scrap fabric and see what looks best.
An Over-edge stitch is just that, just a stitch over the fabric edge. It probably would not be suitable for sewing a seam.
Your best bet is to take it in to a pro. The tolerances on some machines are like 1/32" and are almost impossible to do by eye. While you are there have him make sure it's timed, and lubed, etc.
Change needles if they have done a few hours. Ales use ballpoint if seaming stretch fabrics.
Also you can get EL 705 needles, which have a longer scarf (groove at back) which helps with the loopers catching the needle thread. Or SUK is the stretch type with this longer scarf
Also if you are using cheaper thread cones, try a better quality with smoother finish and consistent weight, this will help too.
However if this doesn't resolve issue, your looper timing might need adjustment.
Flat lock is done with only three threads so unthread the right hand needle, then you need to turn down the tension on the left needle, as this is the part of the seam that needs to pull open when you pull the two pieces of fabric apart. You may need to move the cutting blade hard left too as you need to minimise the amount of fabric that will lie inside the flat lock.
You then seam and pull open the seam to get the flat lock look. A flat lock gives two different looks on each side of the fabric, the ladder on one side is nice on lingerie as you can run a ribbon up through it like an eyelet. The other side looks like on sweatshirting as a seam finish.
New needle and make sure it is the right sized needle for the fabric that you are sewing. If silky satin then use a size 70 or even 60 needle sharp. If microfibre then there are Schmetz needles called microtec that are perfect for this.
Also try shortening the stitch length a little. You may still need to finesse the tension a bit. I think this is a front loading bobbin machine so you might try adjusting the tension on the bobbin holder a little bit. It is hard with these as there is no "0' marking to set it to, its just trial and testing.
Also, are you pinning across the seam line at about 3 inch intervals?
If there is still some puckering happening, then perhaps, stop at the end of the seam with the needle in the work, and ease the fabric along the stitching line a bit to smooth out the seam, then do the reversing stitches at the end to lock off the seam.
Also press, press, press each seam. Always press on top of the seam, turn it over and press the underside of the seam, then lie right side down on the ironing board and press the seam allowances open. This sets the stitches into the fabric and finishes off the seam appearance. I always sew with the ironing press on beside me.
You may still be unhappy with the seam result after doing all this - if you enjoy sewing then consider shopping for a higher quality machine - there is a difference in stitching quality between a $400 and $2,000 machine. You could always take a piece of your fabric to a sewing dealer near you and test sew on a European machine, you should see a difference in the stitching quality.
A overlock machine helps you clean finish the seams. You can do many things with a overlock It can cut your sewing time down. The sewing machine is good for many thing too,Mostly the construction of the garment. I have three machines. A indstrialstraight stitch, a home machine and a overlock.Al for different tasks.
Stretch fabric is made for using the differential feed on your machine, sergers love stretchy things. Try widening the stitch you are using and turn your differential feed down one notch to allow the machine to get a good grip on the fabric, you may need to bump the differential feed up more if it still doesn't stitch nice, keep trying on a piece of scrap fabric of the same as you are using until you are happy with the stitch.Another solution is to put some lightweight tissue paper under the seams and then tear it off after you have sewn the seams, this works but will dull your blades over time.
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