The power cord over heats and burns through the direct wire strain relief.

You need to dismantle the unit to get at the cord. Once there, compress the strain relief and push the cord and relief out of the hole. Put the new cord in, compress the strain relief and insert. Connect wires as they were before. and put it all back together. If you can't remember the sequence or where the wires go take pics before you remove anything.

I am currently attempting to do that myself. You need to separate the liner from the outside part. Using a pair of pliers, loosen the round nuts (found on the bottom) holding the unit together & separate. You'll find that the unit won't come completely apart because of the wiring. There is a heating band, held together by a spring, around the inner liner. Remove the spring to release the band. This should allow you to remove the inner liner & give you access to the wiring. At this point, you'll need to clip the appliance cord by the little wire nuts. The hardest part will be getting the cord out; there is a strain relief grommet that holds the cord in place and prevents it from being cut by the sheet metal where the cord goes through. I broke this strain relief on my crockpot and am currently looking for a replacement. Once I find a cord relief, I should be able to reconnect the wiring, the heating band and assemble the unit. Be careful not to cut yourself on the sheet metal!

That plastic thing is the cord retainer. The cord will not pull out or push in until the strain relief is pulled out. A needle nose or channel lock pliers should be used. Squeeze the strain relief as close to the housing as possible and pull it out. You can then slide the cord further into the strain relief and replace it in same fashion.

You need to supply a power cord; the power supply cord kit (Part No. 4317824), available at your local dealer or parts supplier, should be used, if you want to plug into a standard 3 prong outlet. Alternatively, you can direct wire the unit to the junction box. The wires connect to the dishwasher in a box that is behind a terminal cover that is held on by a screw. (It's on the back of the dishwasher at the bottom. You will also need wire nuts for 16 gauge wire and wire strippers. Twist the bare ends of the white wires together and secure with a wire nut. Do the same for the black wires. Loosen the front nut of the grounding connection stud at the back of the terminal box with a wrench (do not loosen the back nut). Wrap the bare grounding wire into a U around the stud and tighten.

For best results, thread the wires through a strain relief or flexible conduit connector (if you are doing direct wiring) and into the hole in the side of the terminal box. This will minimize the chances of damage to the wire. Then make sure the screws (for a conduit connector) or the strain relief are tight before you close the terminal box cover.

The manuals are available from Whirlpool: http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?form_state=literatureSearch&context=&siteCd=WHRCOM&form_state=literatureSearch&searchTerm=du920qwdb4 . See the Installation Guide for details.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

To connect power cord:
• Remove the screws from the cover of the
junction box located at the top rear of the dryer.
• Loosen/remove the two screws on the strain
relief clamp and remove from 4-wire supply
cord.
• The strain relief splits into two indentical parts.
• Insert the large flange of both sections into the
hole located on the left side of the junction box
housing. The short flange of both sections and
screws must remain positioned on the external
side of the junction box housing.
• Insert the 4- wire supply cord through both
sections of the strain relief and re-install strain
relief screws, do not fully tighten until electrical
connections are complete.
• Attach the power cord ground conductor (green
wire) to the ground terminal marked with the
ground symbol. Tighten screw until ground
conductor is secure. (See Fig. 7)
• Attach the power cord neutral conductor (white
wire) to the neutral terminal. (marked N)
Tighten screw until neutral conductor is secure.
(See Fig. 7)
• Attach the power cord phase conductor (black
wire) to the phase terminal (marked L3).
Tighten screw until power conductor is secure.
(See Fig. 7)
• Attach the power cord phase conductor (red
wire) to the phase terminal (marked L1).
Tighten screw until power conductor is
secure.(See Fig. 7)
• Tighten the screws on the strain relief so that
the power cord cannot be moved.
• Re-install the cover of the junction box and
secure with four screws removed earlier.
• The dryer is now ready to be connected to the
power supply receptacle.

This is from the manual for the Danby DCD5505W. You did not give the model # so I went off of what you listed it under.

Good Luck and please rate 4 thumbs for the free answer.

There should be a small junction box under the dishwasher behind the front toe panel. There should be three wires:

BLACK - HOT (120VAC)
WHITE - NEUTRAL (0 VAC)
GREEN - GROUND

You can purchase a three conductor power cord from any hardware store. A 3-prong power tool power cord works the best, as they have a durable outer sheathing and have good current handling properties.

Simply match the corresponding colors (black to black, white to white) and ground the green wire to the chassis. There should be a ground lug somewhere to connect it to.

Use wire lugs when splicing wires together and use the wire strain relief (if equipped) on the junction box. The strain relief is located at the point where the wire enters the junction box and keeps the wires from inadvertently being pulled.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

red and black are the 2 power phase wires and go on L1 and L2 terminals or on an inline power block the 2 outer terminals(polarity)doesn't matter,then white is the center or N-neutral terminal, then green or green/yellow stripe is chassis safety ground and is connected to the metal frame of the unit

Hello,
If the cord shocked your hubby, the problem is with the cord! It runs on 220 volts, with half (110v) on two seperate wires. One of your wires is shorted or burnt. Unplug the dryer. Pull the dryer out to where you can see where the electrical cord enters the dryer. From the wall, the cord should pass through a strain relief clamp, into the dryer, and then connect to the terminal strip. Many people eliminate the strain relief clamp, and wish they hadn't later. Anyhoo, open the cover plate that covers the wiring in the back of the dryer, and inspect the wiring and terminals. If a shock occurred, the cord probably needs replacing. Purchase a similar cord (~$15), install it through the strain relief into the hole below the wiring access cover on the back of the dryer, and make the wiring connections. For a three wire cord, the outside wires are the hot leads and connect to the dryer, one to the left, one to the right. The middle lead is the neutral, and connects to the middle terminal. Tighten the strain relief, and replace the wiring access cover.
Hope that this was helpful. Best regards, --W/D-- please feel free to rate this solution! Thanx!

Hello Marty,

It sounds like your cord has been routed improperly. Unplug your dryer, if you haven't already. If you look at the cavity where you can see the wires connected to the dryer, you should see a hole beneath it. The cord should pass through the hole, with a strain relief clamp on it, not directly into the cavity. Replace the cord, and route it properly with the strain relief. Be sure to reinstall the cover plate that closes up the cavity where you make your wiring connections from the cord to the dryer. Not only does this help protect you from getting shocked, it will also help keep dust and lint out of the dryer. Strain relief clamps are available at home hardware stores, as are the cords.

Regards, --W/D--

Each of the rubber covered cords running to each ear piece has two fine strand wire bundles inside. The right ear piece has a red colored strand and a copper colored strand. The left ear piece has a green colored strand and a copper colored strand. The wires are coated with an insulation lacquer. The lacquer burns off when you heat the wire for soldering.

Repair item: 3.5 mm stereo headphone jack, shrink tubing

Plan for strain relief:. These headphone wires can't take any tension at all. You need to crimp the black cords to the headphone jack somehow.

Slide strain relief and headphone jack housing over the over the rubber covered headphone cord.

• You need to plan a way to relieve the pulling stress on the solder joints where the two headphone cords enter your replacement headphone jack.
• Try shrink tubing if you have it.
• If you have some thermal shrink tubing, slide a piece over the headphone cord end before stripping the wires.
• Slide the headphone jack casing over the headphone cord also.

Strip each headphone cord 5/8" using the 18 gage setting of your wire stripper..

Hold each headphone cord in a "third hand" soldering assist tool and tease the green, red and copper bundles apart..I wore a 10x Magnavisor and I used a sewing needle and a bright light.

Twist the copper colored strands from both headphone cords together. They are the common ground wires. The copper colored bundle will attach to the headphone jack ground.

Apply a dab of solder to the end of each of the three bundles of wire. You will see and smell the insulating lacquer as it burns off. Keep most of the wire bundle cool.

Position the two strand headphone cord and the 3.5 mm headphone jack in the third hand soldering stand.

• Plan where you can crimp the headphone cord. Crimp it when ready.
• The green == left channel wire goes to the tip of the 3.5mm jack.
• The red==right channel wire goes to the middle of the 3.5 mm jack
• The copper colored wires go to the ground of the jack..
• Measure resistance, 31 ohms per earpiece.
• Screw the jack cover on and finish the strain relief craftsmanship.