My oven and warmer oven dont work but stovetop does, never got an error code,

SOURCE: Oven does not light

even if the ingitor glows, and the oven wont lite, the odds are that the ingitor is bad. it must draw 3.2 amps to open the gas valve. the only way to test the ignitor is with an amp probe. replacing the ingnitor is about 90% a sure thing.

SOURCE: stove and oven not heating---display works. no error codes

faulty element

SOURCE: Oven not heating KitchenAid KERC506HWH3

Hi,
I have a one year and 2 month old KitchenAid KEMC308KSS03 Wall oven/microwave combination.
After a self cleaning cycle the oven would not heat again. Eveything else works fine the microwave, controls, etc.
The problem is the thermal limiter switch that KitchenAid used. It is a one shot thermal limiter that opens if the back of the oven goes above 120degrees C and does not reset when it cools down.
The KitchenAid PN is 9759243 BUT don't replace it with the same part if you have this problem. KitchenAid want $84 for this silly thing and it a piece of junk. Buy a PN 317-1368-ND from DigiKey Inc. 1-800-344-4539. This is a 120 degree C thermal limit switch but it will RESET itself when the oven cools down so if it happens again you won't have to pull the oven. This part cost s $6.60 from DigiKey and is a much better part than the original one from KitchenAid.
The switch is on the back of the lower oven, there is a cover that comes off and you will see it screwed to the back with two wires connected to it with faston terminals. It is an easy permanent fix for this problem.
KitchenAid is ABSOLUTELY NO HELP with this (as ususal).
I hope this helps.
Herald

SOURCE: Whirlpool electric range model # RF261PXSQ oven not heating

I'm afraid you may have a blown Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board. The EOC controls all the functions of the oven. The surface elements are controlled by individual infinite switches behind each control knob.. That's why the surface elements all work, but the oven does not. A replacement EOC can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number and you will find it under the "Control Panel Parts" heading as item number 12. There are several listed, based upon the color you need (White, Biscuit, and Black). This is a very simple repair that any do-it-yourselfer can accomplish if you wish to perform this on your own. All you have to do is UNPLUG the appliance and remove the back panel of the console to access.

Before assuming the EOC is defective, however, inspect the board to see if it has a fuse on it. I do not have a wiring diagram to confirm. Some of these boards do have fuses and that's all that it may take to repair it. However, if the board shows signs of burned components, replace it. NOTE: Check for any loose connectors to the board as well.

I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you have questions and/or require additional assistance.

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave