Stoves 27 in. DW60 Built-in Dishwasher Logo

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Patrick Langford Posted on May 19, 2015
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What wires go where on float switch as they have came off while repairing drain hose

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Russ Hill

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  • Stoves Master 4,057 Answers
  • Posted on May 19, 2015
 Russ Hill
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Joined: Oct 22, 2012
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It don't matter on the float, if its 2 wires then it don't mater if 3 one is earth and it will only fit to one point anyway. as it is its just a switch to say when its full or not. nothing more. no volts

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1answer

Pump has been replaced but did not pump water out when running diagnostic cycle

If the pump has been replaced and the dishwasher is still not pumping water out during the diagnostic cycle, there are a few things you can try:
  1. Check the drain hose: Make sure the drain hose is not clogged or kinked. A clogged or kinked drain hose can prevent the dishwasher from draining properly.
  2. Check the drain valve: The drain valve controls the flow of water out of the dishwasher. If it is faulty, the dishwasher may not drain properly. Test the drain valve to make sure it is functioning properly.
  3. Check the float switch: The float switch is a safety feature that prevents the dishwasher from overfilling with water. If it is stuck or faulty, it can prevent the dishwasher from draining properly.
  4. Check the control board: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, there may be a problem with the dishwasher's control board. A faulty control board can prevent the dishwasher from draining properly.
If you are not comfortable performing these steps yourself, it may be best to contact a professional dishwasher repair service for assistance.
0helpful
1answer

Washer won't agitate or spin

Only 4 things:drain hose,float switch(water level),timer,lid switch
First things first.
Is the drain hose hanging up above the tub?If not,water will drain out and never fill,and the water level switch won't kick on.
#2 Is the timer moving?
#3 is the lid switch.Sometimes they get loose or bent,you can put a screwdriver in the slot to see if that works.Also the switch can go bad,so you need to take the top off.Using a puddy knife or other flat metal at the crease where the door comes down at the front where the top meets the front and pull out the front panel,then take out the two screws holding the top on,then tilt up till the back slides out of the area near the controls.Be careful of the two wires connected to the lid switch.turn over and unscrew the switch.The blade connectors should be tight,so you will need needle nose pliers to disconnect,then you can use a jump wire to connect both wires together.You should know now what the problem is
0helpful
1answer

What do I do when the dishwasher is stuck on P2?

GENERAL INFO ERROR CODES PROBLEM PARTS SOLUTION E1 NOT ENOUGH WATER INLET VALVE CLEAN OR REPLACE E2 NOT DRAINING DRAIN PUMP KINKED HOSE--ADJUST HOSE TOO HIGH--ADJUST PUMP FAULTY--REPLACE E3 WATER TEMP TOO COOL THERMOSTAT STAT OPEN--REPLACE TIMER CONTACTS OPEN-- REPLACE HEATER OPEN--- REPLACE ABOVE FAULTS CAN ALSO CAUSE TIMER TO STALL(TIMER STOPS TO ALLOW HEATING OF WATER) TIMER WOULD STALL AT THE 2,5,7 AND 10 O'CLOCK POSITION E4 OVERFLOW SWITCH ACTIVATED CHECK FLOAT IS FREE CHECK LEVEL OF D/W SOAP- AMOUNT AND KIND WASHARM STUCK OR SPLIT E5 E6 & E7 TEMP SENSOR THERMOSTAT REPLACE ERROR CODES: DDW497W Problem Solution Error 1 Water supply is turned off Turn water supply on Detached / damaged pipe Replace / readjust pipe Low water pressure Requires min. 0.04Mpa water pressure Defective water fill valve Replace water fill valve Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Heavy water usage elsewhere in home Use unit when water usage is at a minimum Defective electric control Replace electric control Error 2 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Damaged/defective drain pump Repair or replace drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 3 Voltage is too low Minimum voltage of 198 V Damaged/ defective thermostat Replace the thermostat Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Damaged/ defective heating element Replace the heating element Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 4 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Loose or damaged sump pump/drain pump Repair or replace sump pump/drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Loose heater element Tighten heater element mounting nuts Loose spray arm Tighten spray arm Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Defective Microswitch Replace microswitch Float- defective or not in the right position Reajust / replace float Error 5 Damaged/ defective power switch Replace power switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 6 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too low Temperature should be above -20? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 7 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too high Temperature should be below 120? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric contr
0helpful
1answer

E4 showing on the panel KDW60X10

The Kenwood KDW60X10 shows the E4 code when there is a water leak or a problem with the float switch (or it's PCB board connection). This could be a leak at the tank, the hose, or that the drain pump's anti-flooding system has been tripped.

Disconnect the dishwasher from power and the water line. Look for signs of a water leak under the unit. If the hose is leaking, you may be able to replace or reseat the drain hose. (Also make sure that there are no kinks in the hose.) Note: sometimes the leak is in the plastic where the drain hose connects to the dishwasher. That is harder to fix.

If the tank is leaking, replace the entire unit. For the other possible problems, you should consult a repair tech to narrow down the issue. Float switches are easy enough to replace; the PCB board and the anti-flooding system are not as easy to reset.

The manual for your dishwasher is available here: http://www.partmaster.co.uk/company/partmaster/manuals/Kenwood%20KDW60X10.pdf .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells
2helpful
1answer

Model 920 shows U1 then leaks then goes to F1

Hi
Error code U1 means that the dishwasher might be taking longer time then required to fill the water and water is not draining properly as something might be blocking the drain pump assembly due to which the water is leaking. To solve this issue you'll have to take the front lower access panel out and then clean the drain pump assembly completely, also clean the impeller and chopper assembly located at the bottom of the unit. Also check the water supply and spray arm. After this is done the issue should be resolved, if not then check the float switch mechanism and make sure that it is fine. Error F1 on your fisher & paykel means an overfill condition. One of the most common causes for an overfill fault is that the dishwasher cannot pump out the dirty water due to a plugged drain hose. Check the drain hose if it is clogged. Now remove the bottom drawer from the unit to inspect the flood switch. Remove the wire harness cover on the underside of the drawer. With the bottom cover off, unclip the wire harness, fill hose, and drain hose. Then unclip the linkage at the back of the drawer and lift the drawer off the slider arms. Now' you'll be able to look at the flood switch. Note the positions of the wires on the flood switch and remove them. Then unclip the switch housing from the base panel. The switch housing contains one switch for each drawer. The switches are wired normally closed (NC) and each switch has three spade connections, so it's important to note where the wires went. Now clean the contacts and let it dry. Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.
Daniel

7helpful
1answer

Asko 1385 won't start or turn off properly. behaves as if it is continuously trying to drain. have powered off and on, checked drain filters and hose. is ther a sensor or is it a controller problem?

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description "behaves as if it is continuously trying to drain. have powered off and on, checked drain filters and hose. is ther a sensor or is it a controller problem?" , the good news...It is likely nothing very serious, but the "reset" requires some investigation on your part.

The drain stuck cycle ( I presume you mean drain pump running constantly ) are directly related with overfill scenarios for Asko dishwashers of this era.
This is meaning the control is indicating an overfill has been detected. Whether the unit has actually overfilled or not remains to be seen.

In the event it has, the outlet/drain pump motor is automatically turned on via either the pressure switch or a float in the base if sensing an overfill and removing water from inside the dishwasher will do nothing to resolve this error, but you can...

**before proceeding turn the dishwasher power off via the home breaker panel, or unplug it from the wall if that is possible...most are hard wired to the home electrical...safety first**

The first thing to do is remove the toe panel/kick plate and inspect the base for water. If water is present, with the aid of a sponge, towels, or a wet-dry shop vacuum, absorb the water from the base.

If the unit works fine after resetting the power/breaker it can likely be chalked up to a drain back-up or obstruction in the drain hose or pump.

If not, there are a couple of other possibilities that I'd focus on.

**again insure power to the unit is off**

The first is the float and subsequently, float switch. If you've removed the service panel at the bottom, or toe plate, you need to locate the float and it's switch. It will be located directly behind where your main electrical junction is...

i.e.

macmarkus_4.jpg
Once you've located the float behind the main connection plate, you should see something like this image below,

i.e.


macmarkus_6.jpg
With the aid of a long screwdriver or if you can reach it, move the float up and down and listen closely for the switch to "click", indicating it is indeed functioning.

Restore power again, and see if this resolves the issue, if not try this next...

The pressure switch too can cause the drain/outlet pump to run constantly ( and usually all the lights to flash or "F2"...depending on the era and model of the Asko...ones with displays show F2 ).
As I was saying the pressure switch is the component which controls the normal fill level and the overfill detection...pre float activation. The float is primarily the last ditch safety to notify the user in the event of a overflow, back-flow, or leak underneath the unit to service or call for service to the unit.

It too is located under the machine and is mounted to the sump well assembly as shown, the large arrow indicates the switch while the small is the hose.

i.e.

macmarkus_7.jpg
The issue is possibly just the hose going to the switch is clogged with debris such as dirt, detergent buildup etc and will be remedied by blowing it out.

The best way to do this is to remove this hose at the switch in the location indicated above, be very careful as to not break the hose off with the part of the switch inside, they can be delicate.

I typically work it loose with a tiny screw driver gently working it away from the switch. Once removed, pour a small amount of hot water, white vinegar or "CLR" through the sump from within the tub...or you can try blowing it through with "lung power".

The other end of the hose is located at the back of the sump well and is quite vulnerable to blockages over time due to detergents, dirt, and such.

This is the location...do not break this or you will need to replace the entire sump well...no fun.

Large arrow is pointing back to pressure switch, small indicates connection to sump well, sorry for the poor quality...it's hard to get in there with a camera phone, ha ha !

i.e.


macmarkus_8.jpg
That's almost the extent of the possible causes of this error. Of course it could be the pressure switch has failed, the float switch has failed or ultimately the control has failed, but not likely.

Hope this helps move you forward, or even better resolves the issue altogether. Let me know of course, I will help you move further if necessary.

Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)
0helpful
1answer

Dishwasher will not drain

If there is a drain problem.
Try first tripping circuit breaker and dry water in the tub using a sponge.Restart machine and see if the problem is still there.Check the drain well and the filter.Ensure drain hose at the back is not kinked.Access pump hose , undo it and look for blockage.

Check the water level device. This is usually a float switch, on some model you also have a pressure switch located on drain system.If all that does not correct the problem, test wiring and control.
0helpful
1answer

DISHWASHER NOT DRAINING

Hi.
If there is a drain problem.
Try first tripping circuit breaker and dry water in the tub using a sponge.

Restart machine and see if the problem is still there.

Check the drain well and the filter.


Ensure drain hose at the back is not kinked.


Access pump hose , undo it and look for blockage.


Check the water level device. This is usually a float switch, on some model you also have a pressure switch located on drain system.

If all that does not correct the problem, test wiring and control.


Here parts and diagrams for your appliance.

0helpful
1answer

My dishwasher is not draining

have you checked your float valve and float relay switch
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