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Anonymous Posted on Aug 25, 2014

Do I need to use tension with free motion foot

I used free motion foot without tension and on 0 stitch, thread caught at the back of the work, was I using the foot wrongly?

1 Answer

Sewingirl

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  • Sewing Machines Expert 248 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 25, 2014
Sewingirl
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Yes, the tension setting for 'free motion' and for 'sewing' is the same AND there must be tension; otherwise the top thread will form huge loops on the underside and eventually totally jam. Also make sure that the presser foot is down ... it is often easily left up as the 'free motion foot' disguises it.
The stitch length is irrelevant in free motion as the stitch length is determined by how fast the fabric is moved by the operator while maintaining constant speed (or close to constant).
A couple more items to check: make sure that the 'feed dogs' are either lowered or covered (depending on your machine model) AND that the 'free motion foot' is installed correctly.
Enjoy free motioning.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 13 Answers
  • Posted on May 27, 2009

SOURCE: Zigzag stitch pulling tight, looks wrong

Try adusting the bobbin thread instead of the top. Always make sure to insert the bobbin so the thread is pulling in a clock wise direction. Both threads top and bobbin should have about the same resitance when pulled.

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Anonymous

  • 65 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 06, 2009

SOURCE: Threadtension wrong when free motion quilting

If the thread under the fabric is loose you need to tighten the upper tension. If it's on 4, bring it to 5. If it's on 5, bring it to six and continue doing that and sewing till its perfect. You may need to decrease your lower tension if you can't get it just right.

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Anonymous

  • 323 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 11, 2008

SOURCE: free motion

If the machine works on regular stitching and only messes up on free motion ,the most likely problem is the presser foot has not been lowered. Get everything ready to sew, lower the presser foot lever and pull on the upper thread near the take up lever. It should have tension on it. Raise the foot and try again, it should not have tension on it . If this is what you get, lower the presser foot lever and try it again.
sewman7

berninafan

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 17, 2009

SOURCE: Bernina Aurora 440 knotting below my fabric and into bobbin area.

Are you sure you have the bobbin the right way round in the holder....when you look at the bobbin and tug the thread, the bobbin should move clockwise.
Pull out the foot pedal and use bsr2 with the start/stop button.
Bring bobbin thread to top of work before starting to sew. This may help knotting problem

bargainbox

Hassy

  • 1388 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 06, 2009

SOURCE: Kenmore Ultra Stitch 12 model 1595280. Tension

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Specific detail on bobbin case adjustment (with picture) near halfway down reply, the remainder will help you achieve a balance of top and bottom tensions.

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.

The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks

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I have a Janome Memory Craft 5700. I cannot seem to get the right tension on the underside of the fabric when using a free motion foot and feed dogs lowered.

I'm not sure how free motion plays into tension. If you were just sewing regular way with an all purpose foot and feed dogs, what you've described is extreme low top thread tension, regardless of tension selector setting. It's not zero tension as that tends to ball up underside of fabric and break the top thread.

Suggest switching back to an all purpose foot and dogs up, dont rethread or change bobbin or needle. Using scrap of same or similar fabric, see if you can get it to tension correctly with a simple straight stitch.

I suspect its a bobbin tension issue but they're extremely rare.

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Where can I get directions for free motion quilting on my triptonic 2030. I am having trouble with the tension and bobbin stitches are awful.

For FMQ, make sure you have a darning or FMQ foot for your machine. You must use this foot because it is shorter than other presser feet so it does not press down on the fabric. You need to be able to move the fabric freely under the presser foot. When threading your machine, ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot so the thread will seat properly in the tension disk. The presser foot is ALWAYS lowered when FMQing or the tension will not work. To set the tension, test on some sample quilt sandwiches made with the same materials you will be quilting. Be sure to use a brand new quilting, microtex, or top stitch needle in your machine. Skipped stitches generally indicate the needle is dull, bent, or otherwise damaged. Test your stitching on the test sandwiches and adjust the top tension until the top and bobbin threads meet in the middle of the fabric (Increasing the top tension pulls the bobbin thread up. Loosening the top tension allows the bobbin thread to pull the top thread down.) Depending on your thread weight, you may need to adjust the bobbin tension, but do that ONLY if you cannot get the top thread to pull the bobbin thread up into the sandwich. (However, remember that if you adjust the bobbin case, it may not work properly when you go back to regular sewing.) I actually bought a separate bobbin case that I have adjusted only for FMQing on my machine and I use it only for that purpose.

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How to Free motion quilting on Janome 1600P QC

Be sure to use a darning foot (or free motion quilting foot).
Use a brand new sharp needle, ie top stitch, embroidery, or microtex work well.
Check that the thread, needle, and fabric are compatible--Caution, the needle eye should be the right size for the thread weight.
AVOID old or bargain bin thread!
Be sure to drop or cover the feed dogs.
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You may need to adjust the tension for FMQ--I have to tighten the bobbin tension a little to keep the bobbin thread below the quilt surface (so I bought a special bobbin case and set the tension for FMQ and that's all I use it for.)

Lots of web sites that talk about how to free motion quilt. Then, it's PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE! I use a portable white board and draw free motion designs on it (while watching TV, etc.). The idea is to get it fluid without jerking, jumping, speeding up or slowing down, etc. When your hand and brain are able to work smoothly, then you can probably do free motion quilting. Practice on scraps of fabric and batting (preferably the same kind you will be working on). Cut up some 14 inch squares of fabric and batting and draw designs on them and see if you can stitch them. Some advice: don't watch the needle...look at where you are going in front of the needle. Don't expect perfection to happen overnight. Many quilters have been FMQing for years and still make mistakes. (I've made a few quilts and my stuff still looks less than professional, but it's all mine!)

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Although straight stitching is OK, when I change to the free-motion foot the stitches become tight on the back ending in a straight line with the top thread showing as loops or bumps.

Hmm, you've already done a lot of things that should have corrected specific problems. The only things that come to mind is that the upper thread is not seated in the tension disk. Remove the thread, RAISE the presser foot and re-thread from the beginning. Am also wondering (since it seems to occur only with this specific presser foot) if it is a generic FMQ presser foot that perhaps does not fit the machine properly so the tension is not being activated. Doubtful that the needle is the problem but you may want to check that the needle/thread/fabric are compatible.

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As a last ditch effort, you can probably try to loosen the bobbin case tension. Just be sure to mark the original skrew setting with a permanent marker or a spot of nail polish so you can return it to the original setting and make only 1/8 turn adjustments at a time, retest, and then readjust...until it is where you want it. I generally keep a special bobbin case that is set up and used only for FMQ.

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Ashleigh--Your machine will work satisfactorily ONLY if the presser foot is down. When the presser foot is up, the tension disk is released, therefore, no tension = a big knot of thread.

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Some sewists will free motion quilt without a presser foot (if they don't have a darning foot), but that is very dangerous as one can easily sew through a finger. However, even when sewing without a presser foot, the presser foot mechanism needs to be lowered in order to properly form stitches.

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How to attach free motion foot

Most free motion feet attach like the other feet.

It is creating "thread nesting" also called birdnesting. Could be several things:
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3) your free motion quilt foot, when lowered, should not rest on the fabric. (Be sure you are lowering your presser foot when you want to stitch!) You should be able to move the quilt sandwich easily under the presser foot. If the foot applies any pressure to the fabric, you may need to release the presser foot pressure (consult your manual). Or you are using the incorrect presser foot for your machine.
4) If none of the above, you need to tighten the upper tension AND
try this method before beginning to free motion stitch:

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Hi. You'll need to lower the feed dogs and use a darning foot. Use a straight stitch and set the stitch length to 0. Depending on what thread you use, you may need to adjust the tension. Keep the fabric taut (or use a hoop) and experiment on scraps to get the results you want.
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If the machine works on regular stitching and only messes up on free motion ,the most likely problem is the presser foot has not been lowered. Get everything ready to sew, lower the presser foot lever and pull on the upper thread near the take up lever. It should have tension on it. Raise the foot and try again, it should not have tension on it . If this is what you get, lower the presser foot lever and try it again.
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