20 Most Recent Kenmore 19233 Computerized Sewing Machine Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity, full 'make model (what it is)'. Question moved from Cars and Trucks. This might help, 19000 series http://homeappliance.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/kenmore/385_19000.html?p=1 This is the Service Manual https://usermanual.wiki/Kenmore/38519001890.10469226/html ..

Most likely the pants are a knit or stretchy fabric and you should be using a ballpoint needle especially for knits. Try poking the needles through your fabric and pull them back out just to see if there's a burr on one of them. If not, you can use them if you can't get the ballpoint ones. If the fabric is knit and it keeps getting caught, try putting a stabilizer under the fabric to get it to sew smoothly. You can try a light tearaway from Joanne Fabrics. If you can't get to a store, try waxed paper, tissue paper, an old pattern or anything that you have that can be torn away after you stitch. You only need a strip on the bottom of the hem. If the pattern is intricate and the paper sticks after the tearaway process, you can just dampen the paper so it will fall off. Hope this solves your problem.

Your feeddogs are not engaged. There will be a button or lever that controls this. You will just have to find it and flip it. Could be on the ends of machine or the front bottom edge. If I could see a picture of machine I could help

you can use schmetz, i actually prefer them

Try using a walking foot. It could be it's not the bobbin but the way the two layers are feeding together. Or, change feet. Or, try a new needle. Rethread the top needle, too--sometimes this alone fixes the problem.

Most likely the fabric is too light weight to sustain the thread tension using a wide zig-zag stitch. Tunneling will occur in this case. Loosening the tension (top & bobbin) could also be beneficial. Sometimes the machine has a special foot (sometimes called overlock) that will help. However, using something to add more body to the fabric, like a wash-away or tear-away fabric stabilizer to the seam or even adding paper will help limit tunneling. Sometimes heavy starch applied to the seamline before stitching will be helpful. tunneling when zigzagging Threads Magazine Gatherings Forum Sewing... zigzag stitch troubleshoot

38519233400 KENMORE SEWING MACHINE Manual

Is this a stitch selection issue? A stitch width or stitch length issue? What stitch are you attempting to use, and on what fabric?

ebay an amazon though many folks trade on craigslist an so many more here is maybe what you need see BOBBIN WINDER KENMORE 385 18080 18230 19030 19150 19153 19157 19233 19365...

Check with a local fabric store. They may have classes or know of others places where you can look in your area.

Do you have it on zig zag or maybe it is in one of the hem stitches. Make sure you have not selected a special stitch. Sometimes with a small width setting it looks like no zig zag, then when you increase the length you see it is not.

wrong bobbin size, or tension is not set right.

Depends on why the seam is puckering. Read this: http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/Minimizing-Seam-Puckering-2-5-10.pdf Offhand, it sounds like you need to reset the top tension properly. http://quilting.about.com/od/piecingtechniques/a/How-to-Adjust-Sewing-Machine-Tension.htm The top two photos here are the upper and underside of a single ply of muslin sewn with a balanced tension. The blue thread is on top, red in the bobbin: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/22521551 -- that will give you something to shoot for.

The first time is a little difficult; but it get's easier every time. I found after mine blew its first fuse, it blew more and more often; then almost any time it got jammed; while sewing real heavy material; and when I tried to sew real fast. So might as well buy several fuses when you go to buy one. I had a hard time finding a fuse locally, until I just happened to call Radio Shack and they had them. There are usually 2 fuses, so check to see which one is blown and take it with you. Make sure you buy fuse that does not blow as easily -- think they called it a slow blowing fuse. Radio Shack helped me to buy the right one. I purchased a higher rating the last time and it seemed to do better -- but I could not find where this was recommended and I am no expert on fuses, so let Radio Shack advise you. Just do not buy a lower rated fuse. Make sure you note where each screw goes back at, I didn't and had some screws left over the first time I finished. Take masking tape and write on it where the screw goes, then use that piece of tape to stick the screw to a piece of paper or aluminum foil. Trust me, it will help. Now how to to do this: I didn't remove the top cover, I just loosened the screws enough to get the side panel off. I don't recommend taking the top off all the way, because my dimmer knob came lose when I took it all the way off. If you want to take the top off you can by removing the 2 large screws, plus the small one under the handle. Remove the small screw on the bottom that screws into the right side. Remove the right cover, where the power plug is. Lay the machine on its back and remove the screws on the bottom. Make sure when you take these screws out you do not move the embroidery arm; or you will have to adjust the feed dogs before it fits back together. CAREFULLY move the bottom cover out of the way. Inside the body of the machine you will see a black box held in place by three screws. Remove the screws and, as you slowly pull the box out. One of the wires on mine was not removable. One wire was real short and it was tricky to make sure I had it plugged back in when I put it back together. MAKE NOTE OF WHICH WIRES PLUG IN WHERE. On the other side of the box, remove the two screws that hold the cover on.Inside, remove the two screws that hold the board. Be careful not to touch anything on the board Looking into the machine from the right side (where the plug is) you will see two fuses. One will be blown. I used some real long needle nose pliers to take them out. Use the tweezers to replace with the new fuse and reassemble. Make sure it touches the metal on both sides or it will not work. When refitting the base unit, make sure the feed dogs are in the right position -- this is what I was referring to when I said embroidery arm. I didn't replace all my screws in the bottom until I made sure it worked. If it doesn't check the short wire where you took the box out; and check to make sure the fuses are in the slot correctly (these are some errors I made the first time.) **ALSO DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN YOUR SCREWS. I did and mine got stripped out. The local sewing shop wanted $120 to replace the fuse; which is about all you can get for the sewing machine if you try to sell it. I am a retired single 62 year old lady so if I can figure it out so can you. It took me almost an hour the first time, but now I can do it in 15 minutes. I still have my machine, but purchased a newer model and only use this one for straight easy sewing. Good luck and let me know if you need any more help.

Set the stitch length to 0. Find a thin piece of plastic and punch a smooth hole in it for the needle. Tape the plastic over the feed dogs and you're good to go.

Switch at rear

problem: i have a kenmore 158.13500 which i can't find the feed dogs cover so i can do the free motion on my quilt .please help what can i do to resolve this problem

Remove extension table/accessory box by gentle pulling it away from machine. You are left with just the free arm. In the back of the free arm, lower left corner, you will fine the feed dog lever. Push the leaver to the right to lower the feed dog.Instructions for lowering and raising the feed dog are on page 48 of your owner's manual. Good luck!

well just look carefully at what your doing