Frigidaire dishwasher model FDB520RHS2 will not advance pst wash- just keeps washing draining and refilling the wash. does not advance. Left it run for 3 hours, still wash only

SOURCE: GE Nautilus won't drain after Rinse Cycle

Check disposer plug. If a garbage disposer has been recently installed, it is possible the disposer drain plug was not removed. The drain plug is a plastic piece in the disposer that blocks the hole where the dishwasher hose connects. Also check the hose connected to the disposal. Mine apparently had a kink in it. When I straightened the hose the dishwasher drained at full speed (I recently had a plumber re-route a hot waterline. He must has bent the hose). Hope this helps. If not go to the GE website. That's where I found my answer.

SOURCE: Water not draining out after wash cycle

the is a new product out called the dishwasher filtration system. it actually filters the water going into your dishwasher and leaves your dishes spot free. after the first load i was amazed that the white film was gone and my dishes were sparkling. you can get it at www.dishwasherfilter.com.

SOURCE: GE Nautilus GSD4200 Dishwasher will not wash/drain

If your dishwasher is cleaning poorly, check these:

Water-inlet valve Most cleaning problems are caused by the dishwasher not getting enough wash water, so the water-inlet valve is often to blame. This valve is usually at the bottom left or right of the dishwasher, behind the lower access panel. It's the device with the main water line from the house, a rubber tube to the dishwasher, and two wires attached to it. 

When a water-inlet valve is defective, you may hear the sound that's usually referred to as "water hammer." If the water-inlet valve is defective, you need to completely replace it. 

Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Replacement

Be sure to read and understand any instructions that come with the new water inlet valve.

Tools required: 

Adjustable wrench

Multi-Screwdriver 

Pliers 

Step 1. Disconnect the dishwasher from its power source. 

Note: Dishwashers are usually wired directly to the home’s electrical system. To disconnect the power, switch off the circuit breaker or remove the fuse for the electrical circuit the dishwasher is attached to. Try to turn the unit on after disconnecting the power to be sure you were successful. 

CAUTION: If you’re not sure you’ve shut off the power properly, DO NOT CONTINUE. Call a qualified appliance repair technician to complete the repair. 

Step 2. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher. This is usually underneath the kitchen sink or in the basement or crawlspace near the location of the dishwasher. Pliers may be helpful here. 

Note: If there are no shut-off valves, you must shut the water off at the main water supply valve for your home. 

Step 3. Remove the lower panel(s) of the dishwasher. These are usually held by 2 to 4 screws at the upper and lower corners of the panel(s). 

The inlet valve is usually near the front of the dishwasher. Attached to the valve you’ll see: 2 or 4 wires, the water supply line from the house and the water feed line that goes to the dishwasher. 

Step 4. Remove the household water supply line from the valve. The line is usually secured with a brass compression nut. The water supply line is usually copper or braided stainless steel. 

CAUTION: Water supply line may be hot. 

Step 5. Remove the fitting from the valve the water supply line was attached to. This fitting may be very difficult to remove. It may help to put the valve into a vice in order to remove the fitting. If you cannot remove it, replace it. The fitting is not an appliance part but a plumbing part that is available at most hardware stores.

Step 6. Remove the screws holding the valve to the dishwasher frame. 

Step 7. Label the wires to the valve so you’ll be sure to reattach them correctly. 

Step 8. Remove the wires from the valve. 

Step 9. Remove the clamp on the black rubber water discharge tube and pull the tube off of the valve. 

Step 10. Reinstall the old fitting (or a replacement fitting if necessary) onto the new valve the water supply line was attached to. Use Teflon tape or pipe joint compound as a thread sealant. Make this fitting tight to prevent leaks. Make sure that the fitting points in the same direction as the old one so that the water supply line will meet up with it properly. 

Step 11. Install the new valve in the reverse order of the removal instructions. 

Note: The water supply line is under high pressure. Be sure to tighten the fittings properly. 

Step 12. Turn on the water to the machine, and check for and correct any leaks. 

Step 13. Reinstall the access panel(s). Restore the power to the dishwasher and test. 

Note: You may have to let the dishwasher run a few minutes before it reaches the next water fill cycle. 

Internal filters Every dishwasher has some type of filter to keep large food particles and foreign objects away from the pump assembly:

• Most modern dishwashers have self-cleaning filters that don't need any routine cleaning.



• Some have filters in the bottom of the dishwasher that you need to periodically clean. You don't need any tools to remove the filter, and cleaning it is easy. Consult your owner's manual to determine which type you have and its maintenance requirements.

If your filter is clogged, it may be causing the cleaning problem. 

Drain valve Some dishwashers have a valve (or gate) that should open only during draining. If debris lodges in the valve, it can't close properly, so water drains out during the wash cycle. Most dishwashers drain into the garbage disposer. If yours does that, listen for water flowing into the disposer during the wash cycle. If you can hear it then, the drain valve may be clogged.

Spray arms There's a spray arm at the bottom of your dishwasher--it may have a tall spray tube mounted to the center of it. There may also be a spray arm located directly beneath the upper rack of dishes and/or above the upper rack.

If debris is blocking the holes in the spray arms where the water comes out, it could cause cleaning problems. Regularly inspect each of the spray arms and clean out the holes as necessary. 

Water temperature To get the best cleaning results, the water entering your dishwasher needs to be hot enough. Try running the hot water in your kitchen sink for about 30 seconds before starting the dishwasher, to pre-heat it. Also, if your dishwasher lets you select a higher wash or rinse temperature, try that to see if it helps. 

To check the temperature of the hot water that comes from your kitchen faucet use a waterproof thermometer. If the water isn't 120 degrees Fahrenheit, your dishwasher may have trouble getting your dishes clean. You could increase the temperature of the hot water to the whole house--and therefore the dishwasher--by adjusting the hot water heater thermostat.

Warning! To lessen the risk of scalding, don't set the hot water heater temperature higher than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Detergent cup Dishwashers don't perform their best if detergent is introduced only at the beginning of a cycle, so add detergent to both parts of the cup. 

SOURCE: Dishwasher stuck on wash cycle

Hello,

Based on your description I'd say the issue is with the control. Bosch has had a history of this exact problem I'm about to lay out for you and this is the first thing I'd be looking for if called out to service the unit with the symptoms you've described. Heck if you called me with this description I'd be happy to bring you a new control and have a first time complete. ( unless you requested a re-solder option...see below re: my opinion on this )

I digress,

As I've alluded to the issue is within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ).

My first suggestion would be calling in an authorized bosch servicer if that is an option for you and your budget however, If you cannot afford that option or feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself. It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board. This will be one of the pins from the heater relay, hence the unit sit`s and takes forever to finish and eventually display's the "1" error ( on models with a display ) because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed.

**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last, although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**

**Please disconnect the power before attempting any service to the dishwasher. If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau, to service your machine.**

Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further.

Thank`s for visiting "fixya" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness.

Good luck.

macmarkus :)