Tub has water in it

need need water values

try taking the knob off and see if the nut is tight on the timer,it might if came loose

HI, you have a combination issue. the Water fill level pressure switch and, the cycle selector switch are both damaged and, they should be replaced. the total cost of these switches will run you about $90.00.

We recommend the hands of a skilled service tech when repairing this type of electrical issue.

Hi, If the coupler is ok, you might have a spin basket drive going bad. You can try and put the machine in spin, put something in the lid switch activator slot and then try and start the tub with you hand.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I an assist you further.

Thanks
Vic

The cycle doesn't advance When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

• It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.



• It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

Sounds like the motor is fried ....

I had the same problem. The machine will do the washing cycle. At the start of the spin cycle it would start turning with a lot of clicking sounds and then would stop spinning. The water pump would continue working without problem. The motor tries to start again in about three minutes, however, repeats the same behavior. I have a reasonable mechanical and electrical knowledge. I was sure that the overload protection switch of the motor was tripping. I opened up my machine---a GE super capacity top loading machine. Took off the belt and turned the transmission pulley. It turned easily in both directions (washing and spinning). Hence, the transmission was good. Next, I checked any water accumulation in the spin tub. If the water is not drained properly before the spin cycle, it would overload the motor. There was no water clogged in the spin tub. Finally, I dismantled the electric motor. There was a clutch assembly underneath the motor pulley. I dismantled it and found the clutch very dirty with some grease that had turned sticky. I cleaned the assembly thoroughly with alcohol and assembled back the machine. The machine is running perfect after that. Conclusion: The clutch assembly was mis-functioning. Reason: When the spin cycle starts, the spin tub is very heavy and cannot achieve the full speed quickly. On the other hand, electric motors must get to their running speed fairly quickly or else overheating of motor would happen. A proper functioning clutch allows the motor to run at their optimal speed while transferring enough torque to the spin tub to slowly speed up the tub to its fullest. In my case, the clutch was sticky, thus overloading the motor which would trip as it overheats.

I believe that I had this same problem. The machine was skipping the wash cycle. After the water level rose to where you would expect the machine to go into an agitation cycle to wash clothes; it would start a spin cycle and drain the water. In the process of spinning it would stop to display the OL message over and over again as quick as you redistribute the load.

I found the problem to be clothes that got stuck underneath the impeller (round thing at the bottom center of the basket). Somehow I also had clothes get pulled down and got stuck underneath the basket next to the lint filter, these items were shredded to the point that they probably were not causing any issues, none the less they should not have been in there. Even though it was not the problem, I went ahead and took out and cleaned the lint filter since it was within reach.

This machine works a bit different then other machines. The agitation cycle is dependent upon the basket floating up and disengaging from the drive shaft. I guess the clothes that got stuck beneath the impeller did not allow the basket to float high enough to disengage from the drive shaft. Because the basket was still engaged to the drive shaft the drive motor would spin the basket and start a drain cycle rather agitate the load to wash it. The imbalance of the basket caused by the clothes stuck underneath the impeller kicked of the OL error since the basket was spinning at an unacceptable angle. I am not a repair dude but based on my observation of what I did to fix the problem this explanation works for me.

I've attached some pages of a repair manual that I found on-line to illustrate the areas that I am referring to.

I just went through the same issue with my Kenmore front loading washing machine. I assumed (and a Sears repairman also told me) that it is the bearings. After I took the drum assembly out, I saw the rear drum broken and the inner tub hitting the outer tub. I ordered the outer drum assembly and only when I took the inner drum assembly out I realized the the "Spider" attached to the inner drum (and spindle) was broken. Entire drum assembly cost $417 + shipping and it may be cheaper in the long run to buy a new washer. I like the front loaders because they save water and good for the environment, but the US manufacturers have not yet perfected the technology like European manufacturers (or they don't want the machines to last too long just like cars). Anyway, I am looking into welding the spider tomorrow. If not will return the outer tub assembly and buy a top loading washer for $300!

There is no draining & this is why your spin does not work. There is only one belt. First siphon out the water from the machine via your front door. Clean out your outlet filter, check the tube from the tub to the filter. Luckily there shouldn't be a block in your outlet pump