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I took the washer apart to check the coupler and it looks alright. the washer goes through all the cycles , it drains the water out but will not spin to remove water from cloths.
Hi, If the coupler is ok, you might have a spin basket drive going bad. You can try and put the machine in spin, put something in the lid switch activator slot and then try and start the tub with you hand.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I an assist you further.
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Drive coupler failure is typically caused by overloading unit or transmission wear where neutral drain doesn’t set up and washer starts spinning when it’s full of water. Only other possibilitiy is brake assembly may be sticking
That is a transmission issue. Once it starts leaking oil. The gearcase needs to be replace along with the clutch and coupler. The repair should run you about 150-250 dollars in parts. But I do believe it is worth the repair. If you are above average with tools and repair it can be done in about 30-45 mins and will allow you was to last longer than any new washer you can buy.
this unit does not have a belt,,this model number is for a direct drive washer,,,you have a coupling thats in between motor and transmisson..it looks like the picture enclosed..if we are talking about some other part ,,repost...
The transmission in your washer is going bad. It is not creating enough power to get up to high speed without assistance. I would start looking for a new washer. The transmission is one of main parts for the washer and it will cost over 400 dollars to fix it.
Just because the rubber part of the coupler isn't shreded doesn't mean
that the plastic parts are not broke... There are three stems that
protrude from the plastic parts of the drive coupler,and mesh with the
rubber section of the coupler... the stems may be broke off... If you
smell rubber burning then I would say almost 99% of the time it's a bad
drive coupler...If the coupler is not broke and the rubber section is
alright then you have a bad transmission... Most likely the main drive
gear is bad... Since you said that you can spin the tub by hand,
indicates that the brake system is alright, and nothing is caught
between the inner and outer tubs... You can rule out a lid switch
problem, cause the washer would agitate even with a broken lid switch,
but it would not spin..since the machine make any kind of different
sound when you run it Like a high pitch squeal or grinding noise?
check the lid switch see if it's not broke... wasn't the lid switch, but I got to thinking it will
agitate at the first part of the wash cycle, but when it goes into the
slower speed wash, if your lid switch is broke, then it won't agitate
or spin...
if its less than 15 years old its a direct drive whirlpool, no belt, remove the cabinet, not the back panel. look up direct drive whirlpool washer cabinet removal on internet, and replace the coupler, most likely, if it drains.
Motors hum, and your right, it could be no worse than normal.
I would be suspect that there is a gear stripped in the gearcase, since this is a direct drive washing machine.
Reassemble the motor back onto the washer. Run it through a cycle manually (rotate the timer by hand) until the motor turns, then look to see if it's turning. If it is, or even more so, if it pumps water out of the tub, then it is probably the stripped out gearcase.
In other words it pumps out but when it goes into spin nothing happens. The first thing to check is to remove the tranny(get the agitator out) take the 3 bolts loose and slide out the tranny(no need to get the tub out) Take a look see at the plastic brake release collar mounted on the bottom of the basket drive. The ear will break off and thus no spin. If that looks ok let me know...
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