When I turn on my receiver, within a few seconds it clicks off. I have removed the cover. The fuses are all good. I have lifted up the board that has the rear speakers, center speaker, antenna, etc... however, I do not see any obvious burning or broken soder links. It stays powered up long enough to change from say phono to tuner. I believe it became to hot. Some of the tabs that hold items to the board described above, that are plastic show signs of slight melting.
Can you be more specific as to "plastic tabs that show signs of slight melting"? Like where are they in relation to components / power supply / heatsinks / power transformer? A first shot... it may be output power fets/transistors (one is open or shorted) that is making one or more of the speaker outputs go to the PS rail. DC shutdown. Does this receiver indicate any "overtemp" or "protect" warnings? I really need a little more specifics.
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if your refrigerator is making a clicking sound every few minutes. It could be the relay burnt out. i would remove rear cover and locate compressor terminal cover and remove...pull of the relay,it will be the part that conects to two pins on the compressor...shake it, and if it rattles, its bad....
1. If the underside of the mouse has an on/off switch, make sure to set the switch to the "On" position. 2. Restart the computer. This can resolve the problem, at least temporarily, so that other troubleshooting steps can be applied. 3. Move the mouse or keyboard closer to the receiver The receiver is the hardware that receives the wireless signals from the keyboard and mouse and communicates the data to the computer. Most receivers connect to a USB port, either directly or by a cable, but a few types of receivers connect to the PS/2 ports. . Make sure that the keyboard and the mouse are within 100 centimeters (39 inches) of the receiver. If the receiver is attached to a cord, position it so that it is on the same level surface, close to the mouse and keyboard.
4. Replace the batteries with a fresh set of alkaline batteries and make sure they are correctly installed. If the mouse or keyboard is not working, then replace the batteries, even if the mouse/keyboard software indicate the batteries still have a charge. Remove the battery cover to access the batteries. For keyboards, the battery access cover is found on the underside of the keyboard. When replacing the batteries look for the positive symbol (a plus sign +) imprinted near the battery compartment or battery cover. Make sure the positive end of the battery is oriented to the positive side of the compartment.
5. If you have a USB receiver, unplug the USB receiver, wait 10 seconds, and then insert it into another USB port - preferably into a USB port that is closer to the mouse and keyboard. For example, if the USB receiver was plugged into a USB port on the back of the computer, unplug it and plug it into a front USB port. 6. Resync the wireless keyboard and mouse connections.
Resync the keyboard and mouse connections for receivers with a connect button . Resynchronizing the keyboard and/or mouse causes the devices to reconnect to the receiver using new identification numbers. NOTE: The following connection sequence must be completed within 60 seconds. If the sequence is not done in 60 seconds, start over.
try this plz dont for get to rate 1. Turn the printer off. 2. Hold down the ink and paper buttons, and turn the printer back on. 3. Within a few seconds, the paper light will start flashing quickly. When it does, let go of both buttons. 4. Within 3 seconds press (and hold) the ink button. 5. Hold it until all three red lights start flashing (about 10 seconds). 6. Let go of everything. 7. Turn the printer off, and back on.
There should be 3 clicking sounds coming from the amp. You amp miss the last clicking sound coming from the speakers ,spk, output terminals. There should be 3 relays on the spk output board. Their 12 contact points may have a layer of black colour oxide. Remove the oxide can fix the problem, perhaps.
1. Unplug the amp.
2. Open the cover
3. At the spk terminal, there is a horizontal board.
4. Look for the 3 relays and take them out.
5. Open the relays and remove the oxide layer by a sandpaper.
6. You need an iron solder, a desoldering pump and solder.
7. If does not help, check for the 24V for the 5 relays. 2 is for B+ and B-.
Mine played for about and hour then cut off. It would cut off randomly after this hour. I initially thought it was overheating but after seeing other people had it happen after immediate turn on it must not be the case. Intermittent problems like this are difficult to troubleshoot which is why I came to this site hoping someone had found a simple answer. I am a technician and will have to do it the hard way. When I find the answer I will report my findings to this site.