Washing machine agitator bolt stuck

SOURCE: Agitator Problems

you did not get the bolt in the center tighen down enough you need to have this snug but not too tight as to flatten the rubber washer

SOURCE: Clothing stuck on agitator with top loading washing machine

Dear Whitworth,

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The agitator's movement back and forth is important for the cleaning of your laundry. If it doesn't function properly, your clothes won't be as clean as possible. If your agitator does not move, moves only in one direction or its movement is very weak, you will probably need to remove the agitator. Furthermore, in order to inspect the tub for leaks, the clutch assembly, the splines, or to remove the spin drum, you will have to remove the agitator.

The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction.
Various makes and models differ in how the agitator is removed. In some newer models, the agitator just lifts straight up and out. However, in most models you will have to do some combination of the following steps. First remove the fabric softener dispenser, if any. It should either lift or screw off. Next remove the cap. It may lift off, screw off or failing that, it may need to be pried off.
Beneath the cap some agitators are secured in place by a bolt. Use a socket wrench with an extension to remove that bolt. Some Maytags may have a screw near to the bottom of the agitator post that must be removed. Now try to lift the agitator straight up, possibly with a little back and forth rocking motion. Use caution when pulling, the agitator may come loose suddenly and hit you in the face or send you flying backward.
If the agitator is particularly stubborn, you can loop some rope under one side of the agitator at the bottom and then up over a broom handle. Now loop it again under the other side of the agitator and back up to the broom. Brace one end of the broom handle against the top of the washer and lift up on the other end. Double check that you have removed anything that may be securing the agitator in place. Do not use too much force or you may damage the washer cabinet, agitator or injure yourself.
Click here to order replacement parts.


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SOURCE: washing machine agitator has grease on it & doesn't always turn

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

And the Whirlpool Parts list for these washers:

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

It sounds as if the Gearcase Cover Seal may be worn and is allowing transmission oil to work it's way up the main agitator shaft.

I'd pull the motor and transmission to check for leaking and probably check all of the seals on the gearcase and drive tube.

(IT SOUNDS LIKE A REAL PAIN BUT ISN'T.) THE PARTS TO REPAIR ANY SEALS ARE INEXPENSIVE.:

For example, the above part number 3349985 is $9.09 at Sears and is a basic Whirlpool part.

See the following for how to release the console and cabinet and how to pull the pump, motor, gearcase and drive tube.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=142

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Check all the seals and replace as necessary.

Also see the following Whirlpool document on the transmission.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Overall, its a lot less expensive to replace a couple of seals than to replace a $170 gearcase.