No Output + Burned Transistor and something else...

Very likely the power amp output transistors are shorted and need to be replaced. The fuses provide power to these transistors. To verify this diagnosis, (with the speakers disconnected and the unit unplugged, of course!), check for continuity between the fuse terminal and the speaker output at the amplifier board (before any protection relay). If you have continuity (< 1 ohm resistance), the transistor is bad. Most power amplifiers have one transistor to the DC+ power supply and another to the DC- power supply. Both are connected to one speaker terminal, and the other speaker terminal goes to power supply ground. If one transistor shorts out, it overloads the other transistor and fries it as well. Even if it tests good, it's probably been damaged and is likely to short and ruin the new transistor, so replace both at the same time. The foregoing holds true if the output transistors are inside a power amp module.

Note: check your speaker wiring (both ends) after repairing the amplifier. A stray strand at the speaker connector shorting to the other terminal or ground can destroy the output transistors. I once had a customer who had too much bare wire exposed on the ends of his speaker wire. It was fine until his wife turned the speaker upside down during cleaning and twisted the bare wires together (and forgot to right the speaker afterwards). He bought fuses and transistors ...

Many TVs have to have the optical output enabled in a set-up menu. Do you see red when the connector is disconnected (which doesn't necessarily mean that it is active, just that it is 'ON').

Have you checked the amplifier to insure that the input is working by connecting something else directly up to it? Can you test the TOSLINK converter by plugging the output into something else to determine where the problem lies. I still suspect it is in the menus of the TV.

if it is blowing fuses you probably have a blown transistor or shorted component inside the amp. a transistor can look just fine and still be bad.

Hi, quiescent current is set with a diode string located far away from the output transistor high miller compensation cap values used, quasi-complementary (of course), lots of non-linear, single-transistor gain stages here and there.
That's all i can remember about it...
Take care

I would say your logic is impeccable and you are correct, the output transistor or the like has "Blown".. As you say it is just a sexy thermal switch.

There are many different ways that an amp can fail but the two most common failures are shorted output transistors and blown power supply transistors (< those are not blown). There are several types of protection circuits in amplifiers. The most common are over-current and thermal. The over-current protection is supposed to protect the output transistors. Sometimes it doesn't work well enough to prevent the failure of the output transistors but it will work well enough to shut the supply down before the power supply FETs are destroyed. If the amp remains in protect mode, goes into protect mode or blows the fuse as soon as the remote voltage is applied, shorted output transistors are almost certainly the cause. If the fuse protecting the amp is too large, if the protection circuit doesn't respond quickly enough or if the power supply is poorly designed, the power supply transistors may fail. If you see a lot of black soot on the power supply transistors (near the power transformer), the power supply transistors have failed. Soot on the board doesn't necessarily mean the transistors have failed. Sometimes, technicians don't clean up the mess from a previous failure.
In general, when a transistor fails, it will either short (common for output AND power supply transistors) or open (common for power supply transistors). Transistors act like valves. They control the current flowing through a circuit. A shorted transistor acts like a valve that's stuck open (passing too much current). In the case of an output transistor, the shorted transistors tries to deliver the full rail voltage to the speaker output terminal. If you've ever seen a damaged amp that pushed or pulled the speaker cone to its limits when the amp powered up (common on some Rockford amplifiers), that was almost certainly due to a shorted output transistor. When checking transistors, you most commonly look for shorted connections inside the transistor. You do this by using a multimeter to look for low resistance connections between the transistor's terminals.
Note:
I used the terms short and open on the previous paragraph. A short (short circuit) is a path through which current flows that should not be there. An open (open circuit) is a break in the circuit.

There are no internal fuses on any car audio Amplifier. Servicing will be required.

Amp Failure:
There are many different ways that an amp can fail but the two most common failures are shorted output transistors and blown power supply transistors (< those are not blown). There are several types of protection circuits in amplifiers. The most common are over-current and thermal. The over-current protection is supposed to protect the output transistors. Sometimes it doesn't work well enough to prevent the failure of the output transistors but it will work well enough to shut the supply down before the power supply FETs are destroyed. If the amp remains in protect mode, goes into protect mode or blows the fuse as soon as the remote voltage is applied, shorted output transistors are almost certainly the cause. If the fuse protecting the amp is too large, if the protection circuit doesn't respond quickly enough or if the power supply is poorly designed, the power supply transistors may fail. If you see a lot of black soot on the power supply transistors (near the power transformer), the power supply transistors have failed. Soot on the board doesn't necessarily mean the transistors have failed. Sometimes, technicians don't clean up the mess from a previous failure. Transistor Failure/Checking Transistors:
In general, when a transistor fails, it will either short (common for output AND power supply transistors) or open (common for power supply transistors). Transistors act like valves. They control the current flowing through a circuit. A shorted transistor acts like a valve that's stuck open (passing too much current). In the case of an output transistor, the shorted transistors tries to deliver the full rail voltage to the speaker output terminal. If you've ever seen a damaged amp that pushed or pulled the speaker cone to its limits when the amp powered up (common on some Rockford amplifiers), that was almost certainly due to a shorted output transistor. When checking transistors, you most commonly look for shorted connections inside the transistor. You do this by using a multimeter to look for low resistance connections between the transistor's terminals.

Seems as you have blown an output. Seek repairs.

this could be the pre amp transistor or the power amp that needs replacing
the pre amp transistor is cheap but the power amp is not
if you did not crank it , then it is probably just the transistor that needs replacing

electech

get a hold of concept via there web site and they should be able to help you with a local repair place or at least you can send it to them and have it repaired.