20 Most Recent Power Acoustik A3000DB Car Audio Amplifier Questions & Answers

Honestly, if you have to ask, you should have a pro do it for you.
The few bucks you spend on installation may save a lot of money in burned out woofers and amps and wires etc.etc.

Check your subwoofer for an open line, it may have blown. The voice coil must have resistance. Also, check the wiring inside the box, and from the box to the amp, as well as the RCAs going from the head unit to the amplifier. It all of these connections are fine, send the amplifier in for repairs. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Are you sure that the Main power and the ground is connected and you are gettting this switch on of the amp. If so there is a shorting inthe standby/ relay switch on circuit. You will have to open the amp and check for any burnouts. since the power is on I presume that if the set is new , some one had wrongly connected the amp damaging the circuit. It has to be probed if this proves expensive and beyond the scope of this advice. If you notice any trigg transistors, relay faulty replace other wise you need expert help. Hope you find this helpful. Good day

if it keeps blowing caps, then you must have another problem inside the amp. such as bad transistors or resistors for an example.

no, check your speaker wire inside sub box check your ground wire and you might need to wire your subs in series

Broken legs on the rectifiers or an intermittently shorted common mode inductor would be the likely suspects. The common-mode inductor is just to the right of the capacitors in the photo. Install a single 15 amp fuse in ONE of the 4 fuse holders (other 3 fuse holders empty) and power up the amp. Twist the inductor to see if the amp draws excessive current (which would blow the fuse) or to see if it sparks.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

look closer or close one eye and imagine it lights up (;

I HAVE TWO OF THESE AMPLIFIERS MYSELF. IT IS NO DOUBT AN INTERNAL PROBLEM BECAUSE THROUGH THE PROCESS OF ELIMINATION, YOU HAVE DONE ALL THAT YOU CAN DO AND IT POINTS TO THE AMPLIFIER ITSELF. AS FOR THE CAUSE FOR ITS FAILURE, THERE ARE MANY, BUT IT IS MORE THAN LIKELY IN THE INPUT CIRCUITS AS FAULTS IN THE POWER SUPPLY OR OUTPUT SECTION WOULD MORE THAN LIKELY SHOW UP TRIPPING THE PROTECTION CIRCUITRY. IT WILL SIMPLY HAVE TO BE SERVICED. I AM LISTED IN THE REPAIR DIRECTORY OF THIS SITE UNDER THE ZIP-CODE 70360. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE...V

the romote lead may be touching metal

What does the fuse on the back say? AWG 4 has around a 60 amp capacity, AWG 2 is about 95 amps. I wouldn't suspect you would need larger than 2. Remember the higher the Gauge the more Resistance per foot you have which means more of a voltage drop at higher current.

one think the picture of that amp and the amount of wattage i recommend you change the wire to 4-guage and check the rca,and spk wiring

Amp Failure:
There are many different ways that an amp can fail but the two most common failures are shorted output transistors and blown power supply transistors (< those are not blown). There are several types of protection circuits in amplifiers. The most common are over-current and thermal. The over-current protection is supposed to protect the output transistors. Sometimes it doesn't work well enough to prevent the failure of the output transistors but it will work well enough to shut the supply down before the power supply FETs are destroyed. If the amp remains in protect mode, goes into protect mode or blows the fuse as soon as the remote voltage is applied, shorted output transistors are almost certainly the cause. If the fuse protecting the amp is too large, if the protection circuit doesn't respond quickly enough or if the power supply is poorly designed, the power supply transistors may fail. If you see a lot of black soot on the power supply transistors (near the power transformer), the power supply transistors have failed. Soot on the board doesn't necessarily mean the transistors have failed. Sometimes, technicians don't clean up the mess from a previous failure. Transistor Failure/Checking Transistors:
In general, when a transistor fails, it will either short (common for output AND power supply transistors) or open (common for power supply transistors). Transistors act like valves. They control the current flowing through a circuit. A shorted transistor acts like a valve that's stuck open (passing too much current). In the case of an output transistor, the shorted transistors tries to deliver the full rail voltage to the speaker output terminal. If you've ever seen a damaged amp that pushed or pulled the speaker cone to its limits when the amp powered up (common on some Rockford amplifiers), that was almost certainly due to a shorted output transistor. When checking transistors, you most commonly look for shorted connections inside the transistor. You do this by using a multimeter to look for low resistance connections between the transistor's terminals.

Seems as you have blown an output. Seek repairs.

IT SEEMS TO ME THAT THE RADIO MAY HAVE A OUTPUT FOR THE SUBS OR REAR RCA CHECK RADIO MENU AND SEE IF THIS IS ON OR OFF

youre overloading the output reduce to at least 4 ohms impedence speakers

Question edited for a lot more clarity, full make model (what it is)'. Question moved from Televisions category. The warning message may have been useful! People don't realise that factory car audio is operated by and monitored by the Body Control Module (BCM) on a computer network. Your warning chimes and indicator clickers are generated by the BCM and played through the car audio system. The computer has no idea that this new device is! Take it to an auto electrician or to an Alarm / Audio installer and see if their professional bi-directional grade scan tool computer can reprogram the BCM to ignore your device. Or just put the old one back. ..