I have a power acoustik a3000db amp and the gain[volume] knob on the amp broke off and it was lost.i cant find the right pot for it to fix it.i was thinking about using a bigger size pot?would it work?or where could i find a replacement at?
SOURCE: 600 watt 2 channel power acoustik sterling amp
On your amp, there should be a switch (on the side probably) that has "LP", "HP", and "FULL" or "OFF". This is a switch for the low pass/high pass filter. Switch it to "LP" as this will allow only low frequencies to go to your subs, what you want. If you don't have that switch, go to an audio store or online audio supplier and get either a low pass filter, band pass filter, or a cross-over, and follow the wiring diagram that comes with it to filter out the high frequencies before they get to your subs.
SOURCE: power acoustik gothic ov2-1600
What are the circuit board designations (Q111, Q112, Q211, Q212...) for the parts you replaced?
Did you replace the defective parts with identical transistors?
Which transistors are heating up?
SOURCE: Power Acoustik Area 51 Amplifier
Make sure your sub is wired in bridged mode also and not to an ohm load that is too small for your amp to take. Such as a 1 ohm load or a .5 ohm load. A great way to figure this out is to go to Crutchfield and find their section on subwoofer wiring diagrams. Another good source is www.the12volt.com which also will show you all options. you must be presenting a 4 ohm load from your sub to the amp because it's smallest impedence is 2 ohm stable. Then you bridge at the amp which is 2 ohms to each channel you are trying to bridge.
Car Alarm Car Stereo Mobile Video and Cruise Control...
Free vehicle wiring diagrams and...
SOURCE: what does the red port light on side of the amplifier mean ?
There is no catch all or simple answer. Troubleshooting steps must be taken to determine what is causing the problem.
It is one of 3 things....
1. Impedence under rated value or Thermal Protection.
2. Short to ground in wiring.
3. Internal Component Failure.
One of the more confusing things with a car stereo can be when the amplifier goes into protection mode. One minute it's working and the next minute it's not. Here's a brief troubleshooting method that will hopefully help you if your amplifiers ever go into protection.
1. Try to determine the cause. Amps can go into protection mode for several reasons. Knowing what happened before it cut out can help determine how to fix it.
Did the amp not work as soon as it was turned on?
Did it happen after blasting for hours (may be thermal overload and it needs to cool)?
Did it cut out after you hit a bump (a wire connection may have come loose)?
2. Tear it down. Get the amp down to it's most basic state. Remove all of the speaker wiring and RCA wiring and leave only the power, ground and remote leads connected. If you still have a problem in this state then either your amp is defective or you may have an installation problem such as the amp touching metal.
Remember that an amplifier should only be connected to the vehicle through the power and ground terminals. Mounting the amplifier to the metal of the vehicle, including putting the mounting screws into metal, can cause problems for your amplifier.
Always mount the amplifier to a non-conductive surface. An easy way to accomplish this is to mount the amplifier to a wood board and then mount the board to the vehicle.
3. If the amp is OK in this torn down state keep adding the other wires back on until you find what causes the problem.
Add the RCA cables first.
Then add the speaker wires one at a time.
If the speaker wires cause the problem then they are probably touching metal or have a blown voicecoil.
Check to make sure that a speaker wire isn't being pinched somewhere between the amp and the speaker.
Also check that the speaker wire or speaker terminals aren't touching the vehicle metal near the speaker opening.
Rear decks and door panels can easily touch unprotected speaker terminals if not properly installed.
If the problem starts occuring when you connect the subwoofer wires to the amplifier you may have your subwoofers wired at too low an impedence. First check the spec's on your amplifier to make sure what kind of loads it is stable under. Then check the wiring configuration to make sure that your load is not too low:
If you believe your amplifier is defective contact the manufacturer first. Many have flat repair rates that are very affordable and cover parts and labor.
However local repair shops may be cheaper if it is just a small repair.
Compare the manufacturer's repair rate to that of a local shop. If you don't know the reputation of the local shop it may be better to send it to the manufacturer who will have working knowledge of the amp and parts readily available.
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