When I turn the key while pressing the clutch nothing happens, no sounds, no lights, nothing. If I keep trying eventually it starts but this can be anywhere from a few minutes to many hours. I had a button installed to bypass the necessity to press on the clutch to start but the same thing happens sometimes it starts but most of the time it does not.
What could be causing this?????? Without knowledge of testing automotive electrical circuits ,viewing wiring diagrams an using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ,your may never know . Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop . Complex electronic's are involved in the starting of the vehicle . The clutch safety switch is just one input to the PCM - engine computer . Plus there is the Battery connections an cables . Voltage drop testing of these circuit's show unwanted resistance in the circuit. Plus it should also have a starter relay that the PCM energizes to engage the starter . Guess dosen't fix these type problems .A trained professional auto technician does.
SOURCE: 2002 jeep liberty siren whining noise on start up
I had the same problem at about the same mileage. Replaced the power steering pump and the start up screaming went away! ( The Jeep's and mine!)
SOURCE: 2002 jeep liberty 3.7 engine where is knock sensor
get the pcm computer checked first for errors.
The 2 knock sensors are bolted into the cylinder block under the intake manifold. The sensors are used only with the 3.7L engine.
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280221909
what are your sysptoms of no start?
SOURCE: 2004 jeep liberty drive train slips when accelorating from a stop
check the drive line play at the output of the transfer case to the rear universal joint.the gears are known for that.
SOURCE: Install a 05 Jeep Liberty 3.7 in a 02 Liberty
BEFORE you put the engine in you must convert it with your old engine's crankshaft position ring and it's pick-up sensor. This ring can ONLY be changed with the engine upside down and out of the car. All rods must be disconnected, all mains are part of a cast saddle that must be removed, the front engine covers and all the timing chains must be removed, and finally the crankshaft must be lifted out and the ring must be hammer-unscrewed (impact screw driver, but I forget now if the taper-headed screws are allen, hex, star or phillips). DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME REMOVING THE HEADS. The ring is ENTIRELY different than the one the computer system on the 02 Liberty can recognize (this is what triggers your spark timing). Next is the magnetic pick up 'wheel' located on the front of the passenger's side of the over-head camshaft. This magnetic cup wheel triggers the '02 fuel injection system (don't un-magnetize it). Lastly, the '02 plastic intake manifold (w/ O rings for seals) for the '02 has an additional port, this is an easy swap-out. Mostly there are no gaskets- the finish is so fine they just use a factory sealer (comes in a tube). Buy it, it's cheap enough and it matches the factory's specs. Taking the engine back out/in is NOT fun, but with the engine on a stand, and with no time constraints it's managable (but still not fun). I made that exact engine swap myself and went through a lot of anguish learning all of this. By-the-by, these engines will NOT tolerate dirty oil. DO NOT EVER try and stretch out your oil changes, because they run really hot (due to the windage tray that prevents oil mist from coating the engine's internals) an ash will form and goop up the insides. The fine oil pick-up screen (drilled plate) will always clog up. If it's been a long time since the last change and your engine is still running fine, when you get around to putting in new high detergent oil it sorta un-sludges the goop and REALLY coats the pick-up. DEATH BY SUFFICATION. If you're ever at this point (no damage yet) I would suggest doing the oil change (before there's any knocking or signs the engine is failing) and I would do 2 more oil & filter changes @500 miles each; hopfully you'll dislodge the ash/sludge and get it out of the engine. Once damage has started it progresses very quickly- this engine is not very tolerant. Your oil will be gold color, and yet your enging will sieze because it can't 'get to it'. BEST OF LUCK- this is very do-able, but you might first investigate if you can swap out the engine management computor and wire harness and maybe avoid all of this above mentioned wrenching. No back ground info here, plus I didn't have access to the vehicle the 05 engine was snatched out of- sorry, and good luck again. One last bit of advice- I bought a zero miles engine from a National Highway Admin. crash/test vehicle. When I broke the engine down ALL the timing marks on all three chains were not aligned and had to ALL be set- I guess they might do that to prevent the parts from re-entering the 'system'? Or, some dumb s__t at the factory was new and/or pi__ed-off and this engine was just plopped in the donated/untitled crash vehicle rather than ripping it back apart and re-assembling it. The damn Jeep fired on the second crank and is running fine now (2 years later). Ciao4Now, Brian Fahey
SOURCE: We have a 2002 jeep liberty. The heater and
If you mean that the heater "fan" only works sometimes, there is heater blower resistor mounted to the heater motor, (behind the glove box) and if it goes bad, you normaly have high speed only. These are common to go bad, and not expensive.
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