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2004 jeep liberty drive train slips when accelorating from a stop
I have a 2004 jeep liberty 4x4 3.7L v6; when starting from a stop it seems like the drive shaft catches late or rear differential catches late but after that it runs fine
Seems to be a TCU (Transmission Control Unit) issue. There might be a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for this malfunction/symptom. Contact your nearest dealership and ask if there's an 'Upgrade" (Reprogramming of TCU) in existence for this problem. If not, try this - disconnect the battery cables from the battery and touch them together (battery disconnected) (+) cable touch to (-) cable for 15 seconds... then reconnect the battery cables -- see if this makes any difference in drivability.Seems to be a TCU (Transmission Control Unit) issue. There might be a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for this malfunction/symptom. Contact your nearest dealership and ask if there's an 'Upgrade" (Reprogramming of TCU) in existence for this problem. If not, try this - disconnect the battery cables from the battery and touch them together (battery disconnected) (+) cable touch to (-) cable for 15 seconds... then reconnect the battery cables -- see if this makes any difference in drivability.
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well; all those p07xx codes are hard transmission errors
or shifter errors.
check levels yet on the tranny, not look like tar or smell burnt?
do it by the book do not guess, how. or horrible errors happen.
tranny 42RLE or 45RFE used .then.
P0731, means 1st gear ratio wrong. (means slipping)
732 means 2nd gear slips.
734 means 4th gear slips.
the causes are many
why are you not asking any shop to diagnose it
box leaks and leaked out ATF , and is way too low.
box pump is bad, weak.
he will scan it first . and even see more errors than you saw.
no miles on car told 20 year old and 250,000 miles on it ,or more?
I have a 2004 Jeep Liberty with the 3.7 V6 it says that the number 4 injector has an open circuit how do I fix this problem I've already changed injector out and still same code
Inside the ECM/PCM. Dodge,Chrysler, and Jeep. Used to have separate TCM's. But now the integrated in to the power train control module. PCM. what is your problem?
The sloshing noise may be caused from air in the cooling system.
If there's air in the system, it ends up in the heater core because it's the highest point in the cooling system. When you accelerate, the water pump spins faster pushing coolant into the heater core forcing the air out causing the sloshing noise.
To remove any air from the cooling system, get the engine up to operating temperature. With the engine idling loosen the upper radiator hose clamp. take a small flat bladed screwdriver and slip it between the upper radiator hose and the radiator hose neck. Allow the engine to idle until all that comes out from the radiator hose is coolant. Retighten the hose clamp.
Their is additional electrical damage. You could have done as little damage as blowing the main fuse 100amp or so, or there can be major damage such as destroying computer related components. This is a complex problem an you will have to have access to a computer scanner that can read live data which will require you to be familiar with engine sensors and electrical components. I do not recommend you tackle this yourself unless you have some level of automotive technical training.
but not one ASE mechanic i bet. they get it right.
so 306 means must misfire.
or better, weak Combustion on #6
so did your mech check compression on #6?
seems not. or vacuum for bouncing, seems not.
that knocking, did he check that first. it must NOT knock.
that knock is serious and will get worse, Id not drive it.
not me, engines are expensive why make it worse?
Seems to be a TCU (Transmission Control Unit) issue. There might be a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for this malfunction/symptom. Contact your nearest dealership and ask if there's an 'Upgrade" (Reprogramming of TCU) in existence for this problem. If not, try this - disconnect the battery cables from the battery and touch them together (battery disconnected) (+) cable touch to (-) cable for 15 seconds... then reconnect the battery cables -- see if this makes any difference in drivability.
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