Kenmore 11047512602 replace bellow and clamps

SOURCE: Replacing Bellow Seal

Here ya go. A bit lengthy, but thorough. Carefully read through the instructions before you begin.


This advice is for the Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet FRONT LOADER style washing machines. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the screw(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten The clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases The clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get The clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. the washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.

I hope you find these instructions helpful and good luck to you. Post back if you need further assistance, or have any questions.

SOURCE: Questions about the Bellow?

If the door bellow is twisted, it may just be a simple matter of a clamp that has come loose allowing the bellow to shift. If its the front clamp located around the door opening, this can easily be resolved by removing the clamp, repositioning the bellow and reinserting the clamp. If its the rear clamp, however, you may have to remove the front of the washer to gain full access to it. There is an aligment mark (arrow) on the bellow at the 12 o'clock postion where it meets the wash tub. You need to make sure the arrow is pointing straight up. The following link explains how to replace a bellow:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385210-replacing_door_bellow_kenmore_elite

Use this link even if you do not decide to replace the bellow. It provides good information on how the bellow is installed. Bottom line, if the bellow is not leaking, and you can resolve the twist, you do not need to replace it. Make sure you inspect for cracks or tears. As far as the additional components are concerned, inspect the clamps that you have before buying new ones. I've only had to replace these clamps on rare occasion. Last of all, "Yes", this is a job for a do-it-yourselfer. Its a little time consuming, but can be accomplished easily by following the link I provided. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

PS You may check repairclinic.com to see if they carry the bellow at a lower price. They offer competitive pricing and often carry the SAME part for less.

SOURCE: have to replace bellows on kenmore frontloader 44142 bought in 04

Not too hard, just need a couple of tools and an hour or so. First, open the door. Next you need a thin bladed Richard brand knife model #S-12 or a razor blade and a flat thin screw driver. The seal has been glued on and you need to find a place that you can slip the screw driver between the door and the seal. Jently pull as much of the seal away from the machine as you can. Once you find a glued piece slip the knife bewteen the seal and the machine to cut the glue. It is good glue so it will take some time to do this all of the way around the door opening. Once all of the glue has been cut, undo the plastic water spout clamp, reach inside of the machine and grab the seal by the top of the wash tub. Pull down and out at the same time and the seal will come out with a little effort but watch out for the tension spring. The spring has some tension and could come out rather quick so do not have your head by the door when doing this step. This concludes the removal and since you bought a new seal, all that is neccessary is to clean off all of the glue residue on the machine and the years of grime on the tub where the seal goes. Clean these areas very well and it will pay dividends later.

To install the new seal look on the wash tub at the top and bottom and there should be an arrow cast into the plastic in one of the locations. Line up the arrow on the rubber seal (search for it) with the one on the wash tub. Carefully instal the seal by having a finger in the seal groove and hooking the seal over and under the wash tub lip. Do not let the arrow slip to a new location as you are doing this. Once the seal is in place double check to make sure that the seal is properly installed. Now gently push the seal into the wash tub so that you have access to the outer lip of the wash tub where the tension spring goes. 2 people are required for the next step. One person will place and hold the spring in the groove and another person will stretch and feed the spring in both directions around the spring groove. Take your time and do not loose your cool with this step. If you need to use non pionted or sharp tools to assist, what ever works is fine. Once the spring is in place you need to reglue the door seal to the machine. I use black RTV silicone from your local auto parts store. Place some glue into the channel and pull the gasket out from inside the machine. Slip the seal over the lip all of the way around the door opening and remove any excess silicone. Let this cure over night before using the machine. That is the end and the door seal is replaced.

SOURCE: how to install spring clamp on outer portion of

If you are referring to the small wire hoop with the small spring, follow these steps:

1. Make sure the bellow is installed correctly all the way around the opening of the door frame.

2. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop in the rubber groove of the bellow. Make sure the wire spring points towards the 6 o'clock position (bottom).

3. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions with your hands, maintain some constant downward pressure to hold the bellow in the rubber groove.

4. Pull the spring apart to stretch the wire hoop open and snap it back into place.

NOTE: Using a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place, makes the process much easier.

If you still have problems, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Testimonial: "Clear, detailed, helpful instructions. Many thanks."

SOURCE: My Kenmore Elite HE3 Model 42822 has a leak at the rubber bellow. Do I have to remove the front panel to replace the bellow or just the bottom panel and the spring outside the bellow.

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.

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