Viking Kitchen Ranges - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Just replace it with another new one.

what model

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvWfEfbEiy4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8w80aCwlMB4

Probably due to the up/down switch (part # PV300182 - about $80 on most Viking parts websites) on the top right end of the unit having failed which, I understand, is common (also just happened to me). Others have said it is relatively easy to replace, but I would certainly like a detailed procedure to remove/replace this part.

I believe the stove needs an electricity supply. See if there is a switch somewhere in your kitchen or on your fusebox that may be switched off. The stove switch maybe hidden in a cupboard near the stove or even quite away from it.

Good Morning, We have control boards for this model in our inventory for sale, and we rebuild them. All control boards we sell and repair are fully tested for 100% functionality & come with a two year warranty. We are also able to test the touchpad for this Viking model. Reach out to us for more information. 512-355-1108 fixyourboard.com

Hi- It sounds like you diagnosed the problem correctly. There is a chance there is something wrong with the board but I would replace the top switch first. They are pretty expensive if I remember correctly and be careful of the wiring colors, the last one I changed had the wire colors reversed but the wire labels were correct. Good luck.

It's fixable, but it is easier for them to just sell you the whole expensive part. See the problem and solution at:

http://www.fixya.com/support/t410261-viking_downdraft_ventilator_electrical

A Model # would be of great help. Otherwise we're flying blind and just going to guess which won't help.

Likely the broiler flame sensor. After stove lights the flame sensor is heated and signals control board that broiler is lit. No signal from flame sensor is interpreted as no flame, so controller shuts down broiler and attempts to relight. Could also be failed control board.

My best guess is it needs a new igniter harness, Though it could be the igniter module. Resistance testing of the igniter switches on the igniter harness would tell you which. Part # PE070818

oven burners ignitors weak and/or valve faulty top burners regulator issue you should call for service

older viking have large round nut with 2 holes you can insert needle nose pliers into holes to turn you can also use pipe wrench on round part of nut if the nut is seised on you may have to drill out and replace nut and jet holder that nut screws onto

back right burner is not reading flame clean electrode make sure it is dry after cleaning if problem still there may have to replace electrode or spark module u need service for that

A complete cycle is approximately 2-1/2 hours with an additional 30 minutes needed for the oven to cool down enough for the door latch to disengage. You probably should read p. 49 of the following manual for safety warnings: http://www.vikingrange.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m2730059_F20542.pdf

Folks,

I just took mine a part due to the same problem. I am an EE, so I have some experience in this matter. The problem was indeed the membrane ON/OFF switch. This switch is basically just stuck on the panel like a sticker. You can literally just pull it off and stick it back on. Underneath it is 3 metal "buttons". When you press it, one of these buttons presses on a flex circuit to complete continuity. This send AC line current down to the lift motor under the gear box cover. The lift motor starts moving. After it starts, a cam hits a relay switch, which completes the circuit thru the relay. This is what keeps the vent moving up after you let go of the On/Off Switch.

At first, I through I could just clean the switch up. I figured crud got down in there. But it did not work. I looked at the switch under a microscope, and the problem is the flex circuit was actually burned thru. This is usually caused by a weak spot in the flex combined with too much current. My best guess is this switch is undersized for this application. The switch will also allow current to flow even when the relay takes over, based on how it is wired. I'm not sure I like this, as if one tends to hold the button is all the way up or down, then that just more current thru the switch for a longer time which means more heat and better change of burning thru. Of course if the switch was better quality or design, it wouldn't matter in he first place.

Anyway, I'm going to take the switch to my lab and try and put a jumper wire across the burned area. This probably will not work or it will just burn in another place in the future. So I'll probably have to get another switch. The problem will be finding a good looking one. All one needs is a Single Pole Momentarily ON switch for the application. From it, run the 2 wires the control board connector (polarity does not matter). It is all pretty apparent once you take the top cover of the vent off (4 screws, 2 each side). The cable that runs from the control pad to the unit below uses a S-Video type connector and is keyed, so you can't get it back on incorrectly. Total cost in parts will be very minimal

For you DIY, remember there is AC voltage levels running thru this switch. Make sure YOU TURN POWER OFF when working on it and know what you are doing. You can get shocked.

Mark

does it have a small metal clip that you have to pull down to release toe kick? (middle, above toe kick)

order a new one

Have you got the correct supply to it for both ovens to operate? You'd be best off having it looked at by a service engineer, as they can carry out all the relevant checkers to ensure the gas and electric are adequate for the kw rating of your appliance