Having troubles with my Viking stove. Electric coil elements. Oven light will not go out unless the stove is unplugged. The oven door fell out of the hinges a while back and ever since than the light will not shut off and the self clean option in the stove does not work. Need some answers on how to fix it. Thank you in advance.

To the owner of the Eaton Viking stove RS3028W-1, yes you CAN get replacement hinges!
I too, have this stove model (circa 1996) with exactly the same problem and I have spent the past 18 months looking for replacement oven hinges. I was very frustrated at the thought of having to throw out a stove that cooks and bakes wonderfully and has not needed any repairs till now and having to buy one of the new subpar ones that constantly need repairs. Plus you can't do canning on the new stoves and the few remaining coil models are extremely poorly made.
I have found 2 places that carry the hinges.
1. Reliable Parts, 1-800-663-6060. This company is located in Montrea (St. Leonard), Quebec.
2. Appliance Shark, 1-800-663-1176. This company is located in Barrie, Ontario.
The part number for the hinge is: 318-024-741

I hope this is helpful, and may you have many more years of happy cooking on this great stove.

Try the door latch...seems it might be the cause of your grief.

I know what you are talking about. It is the little light on the panel and it comes on to warn you if the element on the top of the cooking stove is hot. There is a little plastic red piece that pushed in the hole. The light you see clamps onto it. You have to pull out the oven and remove the shiny metal back from the oven. Make sure you unplug or turn off your power to the oven. You will need to buy a new red plastic piece. It is called a light lens.
light lens here

First things first. The oven element is totally separate to the grill element. The clock has to have a time set for either the top or bottom oven to work, whereas the grill will work without the clock being set.
The control knob for the top oven is the ONLY control that will turn the top oven lights on, the grill does not turn the lights on. ( If you want to watch your toast, you have to turn the top oven switch on to the first setting as well as operating the grill control).
To prevent the grill being operated with the door shut, there is a micro-switch on the door hinge that allows the grill to operate ONLY when the door is down. The grill control also does not illuminate unless the door is down. There are two options on the grill control - right or left. One way is the inner element only and the other is both inner and outer ones.
So if you have done all that and it still doesn't work, then the micro-switch could be faulty.
Best of luck

You will need to replace the element, If it was just the lower bake element, it is a very easy repair, two screws and two wire connectors. UNPLUG the stove FIRST!!

Unplug the stove. Be sure to kill power to the oven because one wire to the element is hot and comes straight off L2 the power cord. You could seriously injure yourself or destroy the new part by leaving the range plugged in while you replace this element. Tip: pull out the bottom drawer and you will be able to see the power cord and receptacle in most cases and you can unplug the stove without having to move it. When you have the power removed you only need to remove 2 screws and gently pull the element towards you have the new element sitting on the oven so you can add a wire to it as you remove it from the old one so you won't loose a wire through the back. That is how I do it.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

It is usually on the stove at the bottom of the oven door. you might have to remove it to read it properly

Bake element Most times it is easy to see a failed oven element. Their will be a hole or a welded mark somewhere on the element where a piece of cheese fell on it and caused a hotspot. You can also check elements with a meter or simply apply some wall current to them using a cheater cord to see if it gets warm. If the element gets warm that means it will work and is not bad. If the element ain't coming on but you have checked it out, of course then that would be the thermostat. HEADS UP: When fooling with the stove always be sure the power is off. Pull out the bottom drawer and most of the time you can unplug the power cord without moving the stove. To make it easier to work on most stoves the oven door can be removed. I set the door at the broil position and gently ease up on the door, remove it, and set it to the side. As far as the oven thermostat goes, they are simple enough to replace but quite expensive. I suggest if you have an electronic oven control then that old extended warranty plan is a winner. Heads Up: One thing you want to remember about fancy electronic controls, never put the stove on self clean! The temperature will cause the delicate electronics to fail. I don't care what anyone says. That stove will get to 900 degrees and adversely affect those controls.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

is it the oven or the stove top

what make ie ge ,lg??
how old?
does it use elements or ??

I had same problem (twice) with my Viking dual fuel range. In my case a relay that supplies power to the oven heating elements failed. The convection fan would run. The elements were warm to the touch. If you have a free standing range, it may be that relay (part number PM010026) which is located in the front of the stove. Remove a long narrow stainless steel panel (1 screw each side) located under where the door hinges. You can hear the relay click when you turn up the oven thermostat. That will help you locate the relay.

Note: Viking does not sell parts. You have to find their parts distributor for your part of the country.