We have a 44020f01c /serial s844119 freezer the keeps blowing a gfci Breaker / have moved all over store to see if it was overloaded circuit / past contractors have put in 3 defrost heaters and claimed this was problem - still blowing circuit / wiring diagram is gone / can not find on Internet

if your unit is old enough to "not" have a gfci on the plug that goes in wall then im not aware it has any fuse inside it that could go bad , instead these rely on the homes proper electrical ckts to provide fuse/breaker functions that keep a fire from resulting if appliance overloads , now as for reasons of overloads these are many ! can be anything from water in the wrong place to a damaged motor inside

Leaking heat element.
2 GFCI on same circuit.
Rat-chewed wire. Inspect wiring.
Nail through wire.
Melted wire nut in junction box.
Undersized wire and breaker has been overheating breaker, and breaker has gone bad.
Shorted breaker. Move wires to different same-size breaker.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GFCI.html#2-pole-gfci
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Hi Tenny,

I'm an electrician and can help with this problem. First, did you just install this breaker - or was it working before? If you installed it - skip down to the end.

If it was working before, I can tell you that resetting a GFCB115 is the same as any other "regular" circuit breaker in the panel:

1) Clear the source of the fault.

2) Push the breaker handle from the "Tripped" (or mid) position to "Off"

3) Push the breaker handle from "Off" to "On"

That's it. Most times, people skip #1 and go right to #2. If the breaker handle fails to remain in the "On" or immediately moves to the "Tripped" position after or during a reset operation, one of two things is wrong: 1) The breaker is defective. This does not happen that often - but it does happen now and then. 2) The offending load has not been cleared. This is more likely to be the case. Start by trying to isolate the source of the fault which many times is the most recent device connected to an outlet. One by one, unplug the devices on the circuit and power up to see if the breaker "holds" the load without tripping. Once it holds, it is a safe bet that this last device is the source of the problem. Reinsert all the plugs back into the outlets - except the last one. If the breaker is still holding, the device that was left unplugged is probably the culprit and will need to be checked out before connecting again. It is NOT advised to simply use the device on a non-GFCI protected circuit. There is probably an issue with the device - and it will be present on the non-GFCI circuit that could result in shock, burns or loss of life.

Keep in mind, most GFCI circuit breakers will trip when a ground fault or a current overload is detected. There is no distinction or indication if the breaker tripped due to one condition or the other. If it has tripped due to overload, clearing the fault is done by simply reducing the load on the circuit. Once the load is reduced, the breaker will reset normally.

If you just installed it and it won't work, tell me how you connected it to the panel and how you connected the circuit to it.

I hope this helps and good luck!

do a amp check on the compressor and fans.That will tell you exactly what is overloading.

from online Microwave Repair Manual: Totally dead oven (no lights, no clock, no display, no fan, no heat...)First, check power to the outlet using a lamp or radio you know works. The fuse or circuit breaker at your service panel may have blown/tripped due to an overload or fault in the microwave oven or some other appliance. You may just have too many appliances plugged into this circuit - microwave ovens are high current appliances and should be on a dedicated circuit if possible. If you attempt to run a heating appliance like a toaster or fryer at the same time, you *will* blow the fuse or trip the circuit breaker. A refrigerator should never be plugged into the same circuit for this reason as well - you really don't want it to be without power because of your popcorn!

If you find the fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped, unplug everything from the circuit to which the microwave is connected (keep in mind that other outlets may be fed from the same circuit). Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. If the same thing happens again, you have a problem with the outlet or other wiring on the same branch circuit. If plugging in the microwave causes the fuse to blow or circuit breaker to trip immediately, there is a short circuit in the power cord or elsewhere.

The microwave oven may be powered from a GFCI outlet or downstream of one and the GFCI may have tripped. (Removing a broken oven lamp has been known to happen.) The GFCI outlet may not be in an obvious location but first check the countertop outlets. The tripped GFCI could be in the garage or almost anywhere else! Pushing the RESET button may be all that's needed.

Next, try to set the clock. With some ovens the screen will be totally blank following a power outage - there may be nothing wrong with it. Furthermore, some ovens will not allow you perform any cooking related actions until the clock is set to a valid time.

Assuming these are not your problems, a fuse has probably blown although a dead controller is a possibility.

While you can do some repairs on your microwave, what you don't know can kill you... even on an unplugged microwave, so make sure you understand the dangers and how to reduce them before you try anything inside a microwave. If you want to do more yourself, go to the link at the top of this post.

generally applliances, like refidgerators heaters, anything with motors don't like gfci's... or gfcis don't like them. take out the gfci breaker and you should be swirling in no time,... when's the party?

Yes. Refrigerators should not be on gfci protected circuits. They should have a dedicated 120v circuit .If your kitchen is new enough to be wired with gfci breakers ,it should also have an outlet dedicated for the refrigerator.

All fridge and freezers should be plugged into an NON-GFCI protected outlet, since the inital start of the compressor can cause the GFCI to detect a millivolt surge, when the compressor starts, causing the GFCI to trip.

If this is in a kitchen, you should change out the outlet to a non-GFCI outlet BUT only to a single outlet that only has the freezer plugged into.

If it's in a basement, garage, or some other place with a GFCI outlet, you can change out that one outlet to a standard single outlet device of which ONLY the freezer will be plugged into and remain code compliant. You will need to make sure that any other outlets served by that current GFCI outlet stay protected, by installing the GFCI you swap out, and put it in place of the NEXT outlet in the circuit.

By doing that, you will have the first outlet that was the GFCI, now a single outlet NON-GFCI serving the freezer, but the next outlet in the branch circuit gets a GFCI outlet, thus protecting the rest of the circuit, in compliance with the NEC (National Electric Code)

If you need further help with this, please comment back and I'll check back later and provide you more detailed info. Of course, be sure to turn off the breaker to this circuit before making any changes to the outlets, etc.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

gfci's are designed to trip if they receive voltage on there ground/neutral side, therefore my vote is for Smithbrother I would say there is probably a partial short somewhere in you system.