The saw wants to start running but the saw braker pops before full speed run. I am running on a 30 amp outlet and checked all cords. Thank you

It is not ideal having a power strip due to the amps it draws, but the fact it hums, leads my to believe that the start/run capacitor on the motor might be failing.

either installed wrong --or wiring short ----if you did repair re open saw and check wiring ,connections and install of component if done by shop return for them to fix

repair - What should I check if my chainsaw fails to start ...

diy.stackexchange.com/.../what-should-i-check-if-my-chainsaw-fails-to-s...

Feb 26, 2013 - Does anybody have any idea what I can do to get my chainsaw started?... Clean carburetor and fuel lines, especially if it may contain old fuel. ... that prevents it from generating enough current to sustain repeated firing of the spark plug as the engine turns. ... Your muffler is pluged up your saw can't exhaust.

Stihl Chainsaw - starts but won't run - GardenWeb

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chainsaw won't start - any ideas? [Archive] - Straight Dxxe ...

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To start with what size circut are you trying to run the saw on? What ever the amperage is on the saw will draw almost 3 Xs the amperage rating of the saw on start up. If the circut is a 20 amp the breaker should hold long enough to start the saw. Also the saw should be the only thing running on the circut at the time. A 1-1/2 hp motor is a good size one aproximately 15.2 amps If you circut breaker is twenty amps and you still pop the breaker you may want to convert the motor to run on 220 volts as that will drop the load to approx. 7.6 amps Youcan run the saw on a 20 amp. 220 volt circut with no problem unless there is a problem with the motor. If the outlet is the only outlet on the circut it is an easy change to convert the circut.

If the saw is tripping breakers, either you are trying to run the saw on a circuit that can't handle the amps the saw needs to run or something is wrong with the saw that is making it draw more amps than it should.
Power supply: You should be on a 15 amp circuit or higher for this saw. Popping breakers can also be caused by using long or low guage extension cords or a low guage power cord on the saw. The saw should have a 14 guage power cord on it and extension cords should not be lower than 12 guage if 50 feet long.
Saw: You've already replaced the cord & switch, if the brushes are OK, look to the mechanics of the saw. The blade should turn freely and smoothly by hand with the saw unplugged. Things to look for are a lack of lubrication in the transmission, binding or broken gears in the trans and binding or seized bearings on the armature or worm gear set. Also, a dull blade forced through wood will also cause the saw to be overworked and draw enough power to trip breakers.

Take and plug in a variable speed drill now when your generator is powered up slowly hit the trigger on the drill start it at low speeds run it for 30 seconds then give it half speed for 30 then full speed fo 30 seconds then try your chop saw

Sounds like you have a compression problem. Starting fluid will fire at a much lower compression than a gas/oil mix so that's why it will start with it. When the motor is running you get a little more compression because the piston is coming up so fast. You should check the condition of your cylinder wall and piston & ring. If they are damaged at all you loose compression which directly affects starting and running power.

Are you operating the saw on a 10 amp circuit or with a long extension cord? Table saws need at least a 15 amp circuit and should not be used with an extension cord. If absolutely necessary the extension cord should be no less than 12 guage. Tabel saws will run OK on a 10 amp circuit but as soon as you apply a load (try to cut wood) the power requirements go up to keep the saw turning. If you can, plug it into another outlet on a higher capacity circuit breaker or at least closer to the breaker box. If it still pops the breaker you may have bearing problems in the motor that are creating too much friction. This would make the motor work harder to turn so it would draw excessive power and trip the breaker.

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

Please explain what you mean by "checked the brakers, ran an extension cord to check the outlet, checked to see the motor will run manually and it will". I assume you mean the breaker in not tripped. What I am unsure of is how you would use an extension cord to check an outlet and what you mean by the motor runs manually.

If you have a power-flo matrix and it is plugged into a 115 volt outlet and by manually you mean you can spin the pump by hand and it turns freely and you have tried to plug something like a radio into the outlet to ensure it works then the problem is the motor or its on/off switch.

If a radio or some other item plugged into the same outlet also doesn't work you'll need to look at the electrical system.

Please add a comment to address what your situation is if this doesn't help.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

Start with “L” & “H” needle valves 1.5 CCW from lightly seated, then adjust for performance as follows.
Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com
http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm

• CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
• Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.
• Clean the spark arrestor and muffler; if the saw cannot exhale it cannot inhale.
• There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full - may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.

I am going to inject a little philosophy here. Undetected air leaks and defective fuel delivery systems account for most chainsaw failures. Constant adjustment of needle valves can easily camouflage more serious problems that result in burning up your saw. A sudden need for an adjustment may be indicative of a larger problem.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Lou
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