20 Most Recent 5.5 HP GX160 Engine Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity, add maker and '(what is is)'. Question moved from Cars and Trucks to model category. Not sure why you would want to disconnect that warns you of impending catastrophic damage! https://www.google.com/search?q=gx160+qx+disconnect+oil+alarm ..

check oil level .low oil causes vacuum in the carb, causing fuel starving . also check capasator has not blown in generator .

for heavy machinery cars etc. luckily there are many websites that can help you in this for eg site like reliable-store is very active in this.. instant help, emails and all that's fantastic

Year make and model would help. Initially it seems like an anti-theft immobilizer issue. Check on the dash when firing to see if any emblem that either looks like a key or says security is illuminated during crank. If this is the issue, you have options. Google DEI (directed electronics) 556uw. This is an immobilizer bypass solution.

or heavy machinery cars etc. luckily there are many websites that can help you repair for eg site like reliable-store is very active in this.. instant help, emails and all that's fantastic

turn off fule first take the bowl off bottom of card by removeing the 10 mm stud .use an air line to blow out carb where the stud came out of.now turn on fule and make sure it runs trough the float needle if it does turn off again .replace bowl turn on fuel and start up.

Are the filters all clean and free of junk? If the answer is yes, then the carburetor is not working correctly. It may have a block inside the carburetor, or the valve in the carburetor is not opening / closing correctly. Use WD40 or similar to clean the carburetor out, but let it dry before starting it, as it will emit a flame out of the carburetor if started whilst wet. You can also use carburetor cleaner.

check you have good compression. remove plug and cover hole with a bung( cork of rubber) . there may be some debris keeping the inlet valve open . try compressed air to blow out cylinder whilst turning engine over(pull the cord). reinstall plug and it should fire.

http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/engines/pdf/manuals/31ZL8602.pdf

Most often the problem is the carburetor. Sitting for a period of time will allow the gasoline to evaporate, and cause varnish or gummy deposits around the needle and seat, or the float. A carburetor overhaul should fix you right up. God bless your efforts.,

The string assembly should reach a point far enough out when you pull the cord that it lets it spin free of the engine. What you are probably experiencing is the engine kick-back, where the engine is compressing the air/gas in the cylinder, and the pressure pushes the engine back. The crankshaft is connected to the pull cord assembly, so it's pulling out of your hand. You may not be pulling hard enough, or the cord assembly needs replacing.

Clean the air filter out with wd-40, saturate it and just wring it out or use some dish soap and then let it dry out or get as much water out of it as you can. Drain the old gas out and use a little new gas to check the engine while the air filter is off and see if it will start, you may have to cover the intake with a rag to choke it out and suck some gas in there. If it runs re-install the clean air-filter before you operate it for any working.

The timing could be off. Check to see if the little key in the top on the flywheel is inline with the key-way cut into the shaft. Its (the square key) designed to snap-off if the engine stops suddenly and prevent the engine shaft from snapping off at the fly-wheel. You'll need to pull the flywheel off and realign a new key in the same position as the shaft key-way.

The computer is controlling the RPM based on info from a sensor, so you can adjust it mechanically. Hope this helps.

IF that is a small engine and has a magneto. You need to check the gap between the coil and the magnet on the flywheel. The easiest way to judge that gap is with a business card. If it fits between the two parts without effort, then it is too much gap.

If you know how to take the carb off/disassemble it and check "o"rings for replacement you'll be good to go. You may have to buy a carb rebuild kit for your model. I have done several snow blowers this way and they start right up in the coldest weather -10. Use carb cleaner to clean it out and you may get lucky. Make sure to clean the emulsion tube under needle and seat. always run fuel empty for winter. use pumper and run a ll fuel out, if not use fuel stabilizer for summer or winter storage.

Valves are set at 0.15 intake and 0.20 exhaust (metric)

Check piston and rings. Could have a hole in piston

On most of these engines since they are air cooled you need to have all of the metal shielding that came with the engine on it. These help direct the flow of air from the flywheel fins to cool the engine. You may have to remove the metal shields and clean the fins if you have an older motor that has been run in really dirty areas. If air can't flow between the fins it can't cool. I will mention oil level just because oil also helps cool the engine how ever most of these engines will not run if the oil is low due to an oil pressure switch that prevents it from running if the oil level is too low.

Need more info eg type of car i.e. manufacturer of the vehicle, brand of carburettor?