To start with what size circut are you trying to run the saw on? What ever the amperage is on the saw will draw almost 3 Xs the amperage rating of the saw on start up. If the circut is a 20 amp the breaker should hold long enough to start the saw. Also the saw should be the only thing running on the circut at the time. A 1-1/2 hp motor is a good size one aproximately 15.2 amps If you circut breaker is twenty amps and you still pop the breaker you may want to convert the motor to run on 220 volts as that will drop the load to approx. 7.6 amps Youcan run the saw on a 20 amp. 220 volt circut with no problem unless there is a problem with the motor. If the outlet is the only outlet on the circut it is an easy change to convert the circut.
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First of all the saw needs to be plugged in directly to a outlet . NO Extension CORD !!! If it is Right , then Check on the motor label and see how many AMPS the motor is ? You need to then check the Breaker box and make sure the breaker is big enough to handle the load of the motor on the saw . You may have to make sure that the saw is the only thing on that breaker . NO Refrigerator , A/C , ECT.
Also make sure that the motor is clean and not packed full of saw dust . This can over heat the motor and kick off circuit breaker fast .
Good Luck , Hope This Helps !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Are you operating the saw on a 10 amp circuit or with a long extension cord? Table saws need at least a 15 amp circuit and should not be used with an extension cord. If absolutely necessary the extension cord should be no less than 12 guage. Tabel saws will run OK on a 10 amp circuit but as soon as you apply a load (try to cut wood) the power requirements go up to keep the saw turning. If you can, plug it into another outlet on a higher capacity circuit breaker or at least closer to the breaker box. If it still pops the breaker you may have bearing problems in the motor that are creating too much friction. This would make the motor work harder to turn so it would draw excessive power and trip the breaker.
Making sure the saw is unplugged ( not just turned off ) and using a pair of heavy gloves, grasp the saw blade carefully and see if it turns freely. If not then dis-connect the drive belt from the saw and try again. If he saw turns easily now and make no grinding noises then it appears your trouble is elsewhere. While the belt is dis-connected try to turn the motor my hand. It should turn smoothly but with a little resistance. If it turns ok then we must look elsewhere again.
Look at the specifications plate on the saw to determine how many amps the saw requires to run and then check the rating of the circuit breaker that trips when you turn on the saw. If the saw requires 15 amps to run and is on a 15 amp circuit then it needs to be relocated to another outlet, preferably one with a 20 or 25 amp breaker.
The 20 amps circuit breaker is there for a purpose, and changing the breaker to a higher one will warm up the wire it is connected on and will cause probably-fire!Cause the wire it is hooked on usually is #14 or #16 on most garages(I wonder why,connected to it are your water heater,washers and dryers and garage door openner).If your City gives you clearance to hook a number 12 gauge wire(or higher) for the purpose of using high amps machines then you can add at least 40 amps circuit breakers.
I assume that you are using the motor on 115 volt service. Remove the drive belt and check for excess friction in either the saw arbor bearings or the motor bearings. If both seem free to turn, then suspect that the start capacitor on the motor has failed. They usually become open circuited which prevents the start rotation. It will just sit there and hum loudly until the breaker pops. You may also have a defective 20 amp breaker--you will need a clamp-on AC ammeter to verify. Suggest that you run the saw on 230 volt service when you get it running. You will be amazed at the acceleration and apparent power available. My table and radial arm saws are both set for 230 volt operation and love it. Go to: Searspartsdirect.com and enter the complete model number minus the decimal point. This will take you to a series of drawings that list all replaceable parts. Hope this helps!
Possible bad circuit breaker. If on a ground fault sensing circuit, the saw may have electrical leakage from it's internal wiring/motor to case ground (a possible problem if you have been using a metal cutting blade)(test by using a 3-pin to 2-pin adapter [no ground pin]). The circuit breaker may not be rated for the starting load of the saw (check the saw load rating against the breaker current rating--the breaker rating should be at least 25% higher). Possible excess current draw in the saw if any of the motor windings have shorted together for whatever reason. Hope this helps!
Is there anything else running while you are cutting? If not is the breaker 15 amp or 20 amp. If its 15 amp, I would change it to a 20 amp breaker. Make sure the wires are thick enough to handle the extra load. If this isn't the problem check the cord from the saw to the outlet.
The wrong capacitor for one thing. There are starting caps and running caps. The starting cap is in the circuit for only long enough for the motor to get up to speed. If you have a Leeson motor that has a start and run cap then the run cap may not be the correct on. If you have a start cap blowing out I suggest you check the centriifugal switch in the end of the motor. It may have welded the contacts shut. In any case, I would take it to a motor shop .