I have water leaking from the top of the water heater (where the pipe connections are, from the holes) its small leaks, and if i press on it from the top i can see the water coming out from the holes

Usually a freeze plug on the rear of the block. Transmission
has to come out.(or the engine) Sorry. However I believe that
engine has a steel pipe running under the intake manifold,
It goes to the heater core hose,if that pipe gets corroded or rusty
the water CAN drain down thru a small hole at the back of the block,make sure you look at that pipe first,at the back of the intake. If there is water on top there ,that tube is hard to change the intake has to come off ,you can run heater hose all the way from the front tho,it's not as neat as the way Ford built it is all. Hoping for a leak on top,good luck,
George E.

What is the warranty on this tank?
Warranties covered failed tank.

Does the tank wall have a leak?
If the tank is leaking on top around inlet pipes, or leak is coming out of weld around TP valve, then water heater must be replaced.
Copy following link for troubleshooting and method for prolonging life of water heater by turning off heater except to make batches of hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html

You can buy water heater at local box store. $350 for gas and $230 for electric, then get store coupon or offer 10% less than sticker price.
Electric water heater is simple to replace.
Gas water heater takes more steps, but how-to step-by-step appears on following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Are you installing nipple in top of tank-type water heater?
Did you use 6 wraps teflon tape?
Is the nipple IP iron pipe tapered thread? Or is it straight thread?

Why are you replacing nipple?
Was old nipple leaking?
If previously sealed pipe connection to water heater has started leaking, then it implies the tank is rusted, and water heater needs to be replaced.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html

Have you checked the anode rod.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

Why are you using brass instead of pex-lined di-electric nipple, available from box store?
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/IMG_1879-di-electric-nipple-800.jpg

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Sounds like an improper installation. It shouldn't be leaking after only two months.

If your unit is leaking from the joint where the pipe actually meets the tank, the only solution is to remove the pipe, check the threads to make sure they aren't all beat up and scratched badly, then re-wrap with teflon tape clockwise while you're looking at the pipe's open end. Three wraps is usually sufficient,, then re-insert into the threads and tighten with a medium pipe wrench. Tighten until you can't turn the pipe any more.

If tank is rusted out, then that is caused by depleted anode rod, or tank that is not electrically grounded on hot side pipe.
If pipe nipple is rusted out, then that can be caused by improper connection between copper and galvanized pipes, and caused by non-grounded hot water pipes.

If tank is leaking, replace it.
If nipple is leaking, remove with pipe wrench, apply teflon tape or joint compound on threads, and install new nipple. Replace anode rod if possible. Correct copper-galvanized connections. Add ground wire between hot and cold pipes.

http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

If you have a leaking water heater there is a serious problem.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-leaking.html
Page shows how to limp along on a leaking water heater if your water heater needs replacement.

One of three things is causing the water:
1) Loose water connection on top of tank that is dripping down inside tank >> check pipes on top of tank.

2) The vent is clogged or not working correctly causing condensation inside flue pipe.
Condensation water is dripping back down inside tank.
Problem means possible CO poisoning if gas is not venting.
Look at vent pipe to see if joints are corroded.
Use long fireplace match > light match and put into draft hood at top of tank and see if smoke goes up.
Put hand at draft hood opening when water heater turns on to see if vent gas enters home.
Do same test when furnace turns on to see if furnace vent is pushing back into water heater.
Does water heater vent inside same pipe as furnace? You may need to set up separate vent for water heater if furnace gasses are pushing back into home.
Check furnace vent for obstructions.
Look at vent stack top of home to see if hood is in place.
Check if bird nest is built inside warm vent pipe.
Improper flue is top priority for getting fixed so vent gasses properly escape home.
You may have to call a plumber.
Professional plumbing forum:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

3) Your water heater is rusted out.
A rusted tank has to be replaced.
It cannot be repaired.
However, before replacing tank, you do not want a tank failure where tank ruptures and water runs inside home until water is shut off.
This will cause major damage.
Protect yourself first.
Turn off water valve above tank.
Move gas knob to 'pilot' so burner is not heating water.
Open tub spout on hot side to relieve pressure on tank so it will not rupture.

Now you're protected.
Link above shows how to limp along on failed tank until you can replace heater.

You need a new gas water heater from Lowes or Home Depot
Look at label on side of you tank for gallons and btu's of your water heater.
Measure height to flue pipe so you get same height water heater, so pipes don't have to be changed.
You need a pipe wrench and teflon tape which will be wrapped on each pipe thread when pipes are reassembled.

Step1) Drain water heater using valve at bottom of tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

2) Turn off gas valve going into heater.
When gas valve is perpendicular to gas line, then gas is off.
Dissemble gas line to water heater.

3) Disconnect flue pipe and support flue pipe with wire so it doesn't not fall down. Flue pipe joints should be held together at each joint with 3 screws.

4) Turn off water. Shut off valve is on COLD side.
Disconnect water pipes.

5) Move old water heater out of way.

6) Set new water heater in place. Put water heater in drip pan.

7) Connect water pipes >> cold goes to side marked cold.
Hot to hot.
Buy new flexible water connector pipes at home center for easy installation of water pipes.

8) Connect gas line exactly as it was connected before.
Home center sells flexible gas line connector for easy installation of gas line.
To test for gas leak after installation, mix liquid soap with water and put around gas line joints to see if there are bubbles.
Natural gas has less pressure than water lines, so gas pipes are easy to seal with ordinary wrench.

9) install TP pipe that runs to floor. Use old one off old heater.

10) Fill tank completely with water until water is coming out of tub spout.

11) Turn on gas, and light pilot as shown in manual.
New gas heater sometimes have small water leak when first fired up, so ignore a bit of water.

12) Save water heater manual like it is gold, and read everything in manual.

It sounds like two problems.
Problem 1) Clog inside faucet or clog inside pipes at faucet
Remove supply tubes leading to faucet and see if problem is inside pipes or inside faucet.
My bet is clog inside faucet.

If you have galvanized pipe that meets copper pipe, this can be trouble spot.
Article on clogged water pipes at Inspectapedia:
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pipe_Clog_Repair_Guide.htm

Article on clogged pipes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/backflushing.html

Problem 2) Water heater leak ... you say tank valve is leaking? Is that cold-water shut-off valve? Or tank drain valve? Or TP valve?

If cold water shut-off is leaking, then replace shut off.

If tank drain valve is leaking, then check if plastic valve is cracked. If drain valve is cracked, then replace with a brass valve from Home Depot. If plastic valve breaks off, then use hammer and screwdriver to gently chip out the broken plastic valve. New valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. If valve is just dripping, then put garden-hose cap over end of valve and screw down tight.

If TP valve is leaking, then replace with same temperature and pressure rating. New TP valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe.

Problem 3) If pressure is low all over house:
Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that screws onto hose connection.

Test pressure on outdoor spigot.
Open faucet and check if pressure drops. This says if problem is inside pipes that enter house.

Test pressure on water heater drain valve.
This says if pressure problem is before -or- after water heater.

If problem is before the water heater, then shut-off valve located on cold water line is suspect.
If problem is after water heater, it could be in hot water outflow pipe on top of water heater, or a nearby elbow.
Remove hot water line leading from water heater and check pressure. This says if problem is where hot water leaves tank.
Read articles above about clogs inside water lines.

If water is leaking from a pipe. then replace or repair the pipe or fitting. If the leak is coming from the unit itself, then replace the unit. Hope this helps.

Most likely only one of the pipes is leaking but weaping enough to cover the top and indented places near both inlet and outlet. This leak has most likely penetrated all the insulation and is a problem throughout the tank wrap insulation...If you are able to blow air continuously long enough to determine which connection is leaking then fix it. It will likely to take quite a while to dry out all the insulation if the water has migrated down into the tank wrap... If you determine that the insulation is waterlogged, you may be able to drill several small holes in the external cover.
good luck