I have no power to my amp. Don't know if there is a fuse to it because I can't find a place for it.

Don't know how all that checking took place
or why you don't know if both motors are working
I work from factory wiring diagram books, I buy for
all my vehicles
You look at diagrams of the exact product your troubleshooting
How would you know anything at all without reference material?
Where would you put your volt meter test leads without a print
& a point on it you chose to start your voltage drops.
I would say in most cases the door panels have to come off,
to test switches & motors all within a reasonable time frame
Just walk the wiring diagram from the fuse
You either have battery voltage or you don't
Once the door panels come off you unplug &
power the motors direct to the battery, with a circuit
breaker you install in your made up test wiring,which
obviously has to be 12 feet long.

on the door/lid of the fuse box there is a numbered or labeled diagram shows what fuse goes where and what amp it is

I guess the short answer is I don't know.
There really isn't a guide to tell you want the fuse equivalent is for a fuseable link. The car companies use the link because it will carry more amps than a regular fuse, and take longer to blow.
You are supposed to replace-repair the wire by using a fuseable link repair kit where you splice another fuse link into the circuit.
The headlights use a 20amp circuit breaker, and the other circuits are probably 10amp or so. You might get away with using a 30amp fuse but I can't say for sure. In reality the circuits are fused after the link so its not likely your computer would be damaged, but a short in that main circuit could blow several fuses at one time.

I have one of these new, in the box, with no instructions.

Specifications:
Power Output: 40W/Chan Maximum, 18W/Chan RMS
(20hz-20khz into 4 ohms at less than 1% THD)
Freq. Responce: 20hz-30khz, +/-3dB
Signal to noise ratio: 80dB, A-weighted
Input Sensitivity:
Low Level, 100-500 mV
High Level, 1-5v
Input Impedence:
Low Level, 10k ohms
High Level, 27 ohms
Load Impedence: 4-8 ohms allowable (4-8 ohm speakers)
Power Requirement: 14.4v DC (10.8-15.6 allowable)

As you can see the RMS wattage output of these units is only about 18W maximum.

I am planning on using the amp I have on a low power factory car radio. A low power factory radio output should be somewhere between 6-12 watts rms/channel. I will be using the "High Level" inputs for this. DO NOT connect a radio with a higher output power. If your radio says "High Power", 25W/channel, etc, do not connect to this amp. (exception: you can use the "line out" connectors, if so equipped, See Below). I don't have the connector for the high level input so i don't know what I'll do to hook up to it. I'll probably just run wires out of the amp, in lieu of the connector.

The "Low Level" inputs are for an unamplified, line level signal ("line out" connection of a radio, portable CD player, etc). Do Not connect a greatly amplified signal to these connections.

I don't know much about the "Input Sensitivity" control (pot). I'll be leaving it on "Low" for my initial test.

The grey wires are the right speaker wires and the white wires are the left speaker wires. The grey wire with a black tracer mark is the right speaker positive (+) wire. The white wire with a black tracer is the left speaker positive (+) wire.

The blue/white wire is for attachment to your radio's "Auto Ant" (power antenna) connection (usually a orange wire, I said USUALLY). If you have a power antenna on your car, simply splice into the wire running from your radio to the antenna. This blue/white wire activates a relay in the amp which, in turn, completes the circuit through the yellow (+) power wire (See Below). - Alternative 1: You could run this wire directly to your battery with a switch to turn the amp on. You would need to place an in-line fuse of 2amp. - Alternative 2: You could connect this wire to the accessory fuse in your fuse box. If this is done, again, attach a 2amp in-line fuse for extra protection. (Note: if attached to your fuse box accessory fuse, the amp will be on even if you're not using the radio. You could have a switch here also). These are just suggestions. The most common way to connect the blue/white wire is the "Auto Antenna" wire of your radio.

The large black wire is main Ground (-) for the amp. The large yellow wire is Positive (+) power to the amp. Ideally, these should be connected straight to your battery's (+) and (-) terminals. The yellow wire on your amp should have an integral in-line fuse holder with a 7amp fuse. If not, add one. Of course, the black ground wire could simply be attached under a screw, into the body of the vehicle.

Hope this helps !

I don't see a power connection to the three components. The interior lights are on a 20 amp courtesy fuse, the cig lighter should be on a 30 amp ACC fuse, and the mirrors are probably powered thru the key on a different 30 amp ACC fuse.
The only common factor would be a ground connector somewhere.
If they all died at the same time, a ground problem would be my guess.

The circuit is on a 25 amp fuse in the power box under the hood. A brown wire goes from the fuse to the a/c relay. I would look at all of the 25 amp fuses. Most should be 15 or 20 amp.

Without knowing the year of your Aztek, I can only take a stab with what I know about the 2001.
This vehicle has two fuse & relay centers, the first one is located in the engine compartment, on top of the windshield washer fluid reservoir (you don't want this one for the problem you described).
The second one is located inside the passenger area of the vehicle, behind the center console, to the right of the gear shift lever.
Locate the removable access panel and give it a good yank to expose the fuse panel.
Now locate and check the fuses in slots # 16 and 17 (one of these should be your culprit).
See diagram below.
After you have replaced the fuse (with a fuse of the same amperage) place the access panel onto the opening and give it a whack with the **** of you fist or a rubber mallet.

I hope this helps,Danno

It is a 15 amp fuse #12

Turn your gain below half. Make sure you have a solid ground, not a seat belt bolt. The fuse blew to protect the vehicle because there was too much power being pulled by the amp, possibly from overheating.

try the fuse or the power wire fuse