Kettle not switching off after boiling so carrys on boiling untill you turn it off

Had the same problem with a 3 yr old 1.5l Dualit model JKT43. The problem was that the little grey presence switch in the bottom of the kettle which engages with the pillar on the base had worn. I put 2 layers of electrical insulation tape around the pillar on the base and problem fixed. However, this is not a good permanent solution.

The switch has to turn off when the water boils as the heat generated must cut off the switch. If this wont work the bimetal is not working and the switch is not responding.
You will need to replace the switch. Please contact the dealership for the spare.
check this link for spare:
http://www.espares.co.uk/brands/kettles/p/1102

Unfortunately the problem is in the switch mechanism, and will need to be replaced to correct the problem. My sense is it would be cheaper to replace the kettle than trying to find somebody to repair it.

I think you would only solve this problem by cleaning the thermostat contacts, or replacing the thermostat which wouldn't be worthwhile as it's likely to be cheaper to buy a new kettle.
Besides this , just getting into the kettle needs special 3 tongue screwdriver and then a certain technique to open it up without damaging the plastic parts. Im'e afraid its a throw-away world now and its not good .

hi,
its easy to clean an electric kettle. please follow the instructions,

• use a damp cloth to clean the exterior part but remember the cloth should not be dripping and it should not be on the exterior while the kettle is switched on since there are possibilities for electric shock.
• for cleaning the interior part just fill the kettle with water up to half level of it. switch it on and wait until the water boils for at least two minutes. All the dirt and remaining powder parts will be dissolved in the boiling water and you can pour it out.

thank you. have a nice day

this is more likley to be the switch its just a bimetallic type,when it gets hot steem on it it flicks the switch to turn the kettle off try giving it a realy good clean up inside around the switch it may just be lime scale blocking the vent hole
however normaly when the switch playes up its a new kettle

Our first Smart Kettle was great and worked well for years, finally died so we bought another. Right from the first boil it seemed to boil for about 2 or 3 minutes before turning off and then either didn't boil or made beeping sounds when not being used so after a couple of weeks we returned it and it was replaced. Great. But now this new one seems to boil and boil before turning off so maybe they are just faulty now. Any suggestions?

e mail [email protected]

Send them model number
PDC code (on bottom of kettle)
your name and address
where and when device was purchased
They can send you a part or send you a FEDEX label for a warranty repair.

This is a very common problem

I had a similar failure with my Braun WK600. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettleful's; so far so good!

Oh, and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault.

I had a similar failure. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettlefuls; so far so good!

What ticks me off about this is that I don't mind getting 'Made In China' ****; everything comes from China anyway. But don't charge me a ridiculous amount of money and try to pretend that I am getting a superiour product. If I had paid twenty dollars or less for it I would just chuck it and get the same one again because it looks nice, pours well, doesn't burn the hands, worked OK for couple of years, etc. Instead I walk away from this feeling really ripped off. I have a house full of Braun products(shaver, kettle multiple tooth brushes) but now I won't buy any more.

Oh and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault. There, now I feel better.