Not heating, only runs on low heat all other settings beep. replaced the heating element, the thermal limiter and the door lock...but still not heating and yes I checked the breaker also.
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If your Kenmore electric dryer has stopped drying, there could be several reasons why:
Check the Power Supply: First, make sure the dryer is plugged in and that the circuit breaker hasn't tripped. If you have an electric dryer, make sure the outlet is functioning properly.
Check the Thermal Fuse: A blown thermal fuse can cause the dryer to stop heating. The thermal fuse is usually located on the blower housing or at the dryer's heat source. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the thermal fuse.
Check the Heating Element: A defective heating element can also cause the dryer to stop heating. The heating element is usually located behind the dryer drum. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the heating element.
Check the High-Limit Thermostat: A faulty high-limit thermostat can cause the dryer to stop heating. The high-limit thermostat is usually located on the heating element housing. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the high-limit thermostat.
If the dryer will not turn off, the problem could be a faulty timer or a stuck relay. You may need to have a technician diagnose and repair the issue.
a thermal limiter is a safety switch designed to keep a dryer from overheating, by either shutting off the heating element or the dryer itself if activated. They don't normally need replacing (unless you know your dryer overheated and activated it). If you have no heat in your dryer, chances are you have a bad heating element--the most common dryer problem
The heating element is wired in series with a thermal cut-off and a high-limit thermostat both located on the heater housing.The thermal cut-off blows open when the high-limit thermostat fails to cycle off in order to regulate the heating element temperature. When the thermal cut-off is blown, power to the element is cut-off and the dryer will not heat. Replacing both thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat if the former is indeed blown. Click on the links below for the troubleshooting and repair details.
It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem. Troubleshooting
Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with
Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating
It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The first thing to look at is the thermal cut-off which cuts power to the heating element when it blows due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat both located on the heater housing. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem. Troubleshooting
Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with
Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating
The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The problem is very likely in the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the blower housing. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and cuts power to the heating element. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat need to be replaced if the former is blown open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem. Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating
It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when the dryer stops heating and the thermal fuse is not part of the heating circuit, it is part of the motor circuit. The heating circuit is basically composed
of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling
thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that
causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the
high-limit thermostat. Verify this
condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions. Indicate the exact model number
of the dryer should you need further assistance.
Sounds like the problem is an open high-heat thermal limit switch (some call it a thermostat). It, along with some others, is in the heating element circuit in the back bottom of the dryer.
If the dryer runs, but does not heat you may have a blown thermal cut-out and/or heating element. When was the last time you cleaned your dryer and ducting? If it's been a while, you may have an accumualtion of lint in the ducting or inside the dryer causing it to overheat. The thermal cut-out (TCO) is designed to blow in the event of an over temperature condition inside the dryer. This device acts like a fuse and is not resettable. If it trips, it must be replaced. The thermal cut-out (along with the hi-limit thermostat) will be mounted to the heating element housing. The TCO will read a short if good. Double check your heating element as well. The heating element should read about 9 to 13 ohms if good. If you can provide me with your model number (located along the door opening) I can locate part numbers for you and give you an idea how much repair parts may cost. In addition, I can provide you with step-by-step guidance on how to perform the repairs, if necessary. I hope this helps you.
PS If the TCO is bad, it is strongly recommended by the manufacturer that you replace the hi-limit thermostat at the same time. In many cases these two parts come together as a set.
If this is a Kenmore, have you checked the thermal cut-out or high-limit thermstat? Does the drum turn when you start the dryer?
If the drum turns, but does not heat, you will need to check the thermal cut-out (located on the heating element housing). The TCO should read a SHORT (0 ohms) or very low resistance. If it is OPEN, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat. In most cases the two components are sold as a set and are recommended to replaced as a set by the manufacturer.
Reason: The TCO is designed to protect the heating element and thermostat in the event of an overtemp condition. If the TCO is bad, there's a likely chance that the thermostat could be damaged.
If the TCO reads good, you may have a thermostat that is failing. The high limit thermostat operates normally in the CLOSED (shorted) position and will OPEN at or around 157 degrees F. It is located on the heating element housing adjacent to the TCO. If the thermostat has failed the dryer will tumble, but will not heat. Follow the same recommendation as for replacement of the TCO. Replace both components as a set.
Now...if the dryer drum does not spin, the likely cause is the thermal FUSE. It will be mounted on the blower housing near the blower fan. It is usually white (plastic) in color on Kenmore models. It should read a SHORT. If it fails the dryer will not spin or heat.
Post back with your comments or questions. I hope I'm leading you in the right direction.
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