Whirlpool Dryers - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

f25 is a bad thermisiter,find the tech sheet in the dryer and it will tell you how to read out the thermisiter,if the thermisiter is good then you have a bad computer board.

https://consumerist.com/2012/07/27/owners-manual-error-made-my-steam-cleaner-self-destruct/

COULD BE THE DOOR SWITCH HAS COME LOOSE

Replace your Timer knob. The contacts inside your timer that controls the motor has burned(arced) together. Not a hard part to place. BUT VERY HIGH VOLTAGE, so unplug. Or call a pro if not comfortable doing job yourself. Timer part # 3976576

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:
Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At timesit may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QP1Z4OWjTuA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKLDrzXlzHM
GOD IS GOOD !!!! AND THAT IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket.Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually)Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
Read more :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g
http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.
GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMP7BW1lLs4

Electric dryer no start does nothing

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage.

CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING.

NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position.

If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor.
Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor.
Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is onONposition. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings

Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter.
Especially if u just replaced the belt.The belt safety switch is attached to theTensionerand motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under theTensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released.

Lastly checkurDOOR SWITCH ?for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhVUEhngZMg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xD7lCXJ0ZM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs


Hey GOD IS GOOD !!!! WHICH IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

SOUNDS LIKE BAD MOISTER SENSOR SEE PICS

Typical operating voltage range is 4.75 to 5.25 VDC and 0 to 70C operating temp.

I don't know though I wouldn't be surprised, there could even be more than one. Overheating of the heating element due to reduced airflow or shorts is usually covered by a bimetal breaker but I would expect to find a thermal fuse fitted in close contact with the motor.

If the dryer isn't working, you will probably need to at least partially dismantle it to find the fault...

It should have been the thermistor located on the blower housing (exhaust). There is more than one, different part numbers.

Check wiring from thermistor to control board.

Comment with complete model number and I'll post diagram and part number.

Just a guess but sounds like youre only getting 110v from plug

Would you please write back with details about what is wrong with the drier? Is the problem that the drier will not turn on and spin the drum or is the problem, no heat? Would you also include make, model and what is it that you are hoping to gather from us?

YEPPER

Cold be a sensor failure control board failure

Dado

If it has been working and suddenly, have this problem it could very well be the child lock has been activated.

I have added a link. It explains the 5 most common reasons a dryer won’t start.

You should find your answer here:

WHIRLPOOL LAUNDRY CENTER Parts Model LTE5243DQ3 SearsPartsDirect

AF on your Cabrio means the Air Flow is being obstructed. Make sure the vent is secure and free of debris at the back of the appliance. Also ensure there is no obstruction where it is vented outside of your home. Lastly, make sure the lint trap is clean. Your dryer will still run normally, but it's best to go through your checklist so no further issues arise.